I've had my chip at 8500 rpm for awhile now and the rods haven't given me any problems. Someone told me i could go all the way up to 9000, but i wanna get some more opinions on it.

 

take mine up to 9 grand everyday..haven't had any problems yet

 

take mine up to 9 grand everyday..haven't had any problems yet(knock on wood)

 

You'd be fine, just make sure you even make power that high first.

 

i wouldnt worry about rods at all. 9.5k++

I'd worry about valvsprings and # of miles on current engine oil.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Milano &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You'd be fine, just make sure you even make power that high first.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What he said. What's the point of going to 9K when your cams wont' make power past 8200? And they should hold to 9K no problem, as long as your engine has been/is being taken care of.

 

I've revved stock B16 rods to 10k, so I would have no issues running GSR rods to 9k. Use ARP bolts to be safer and you should be set.

 

If you use ARP rod bolts, would using ITR rods instead of GSR rods make a difference?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bolivianstrtwpn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you use ARP rod bolts, would using ITR rods instead of GSR rods make a difference?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JapTendencies &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What he said. What's the point of going to 9K when your cams wont' make power past 8200?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you're on an autocross, for example, overrevving up 1000 rpm would be better than a) upshifting, then having to downshift a second lator b)holding the rpms at redline and not accelerate c) fuel cut.

Just because you're not making MORE power above redline, doesn't mean you're not making any power at all; it's just sloping off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PupaScoopa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you're on an autocross, for example, overrevving up 1000 rpm would be better than a) upshifting, then having to downshift a second lator b)holding the rpms at redline and not accelerate c) fuel cut.

Just because you're not making MORE power above redline, doesn't mean you're not making any power at all; it's just sloping off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am praising you for saying this! shows how when someone says you dont make power up there you shouldnt go up there people actaully listen! you should be fine to 9k but please make sure you have good oil in your car and change it because at those rpms over and over again you can really start to cook the oil, but jsut realize alot fo other things might not hang at those rpms! as I say you play you got to pay!

 

Thanks for the input guys. My head is up to the challenge, i just wasn't sure if my bottom end could take the beating. It shouldn't matter that i have JDM ITR pistons on gsr rods, should it? To my knowledge, the JDM ITR (or any R piston) pistons are lighter than the GSR pistons?

 

You can take it to 10k but u will need some jun 3 valvesprings i knoe because my customers integra ran 13.2 @ 101 mph full body with me shifting at 10 all it had was jun valve train and a ported head with a skunk 2 manifold and yes it was a gsr head too

 

What would you need to making power at these RPMs. Would J-Spec ITR camshafts make power at 9k? I don't wanna be revving that high if im not even making power.

 

"The JUN valve spring kit consists of both inner and outer springs. This kit is for the serious racer who plans on revving well past 9,000RPM. The special wound springs will not bind with even the highest lift camshafts. These valve springs are recommended for use with JUN Type-3 camshafts or any other very high lift camshafts. The complete JUN valve spring and titanium retainer kit is also available"

Would ITR camshafts benefit from JUN valvesprings or are the ITRs not highlift enough to benefit. I would get higher lift but I just can't afford it. ITR parts are the best bang for the buck imo.

 

Ive ran the jun spring with every cam u can think of besides the vtec killer cams they work great for type r cams but type r cams dont pull past 7600rpm so theres no use to really buy the jun springs if u dont have the peak power to pull alll the way through

 

They probably designed the things for infinite fatigue life at 8 or 9k rpm, which means that at higher rpms stuff won't break right away, but it will break....

 

Type R cams don't pull past 7600 rpm?
Maybe you meant to say stock ls cams modified to a vtec head, but at 7600 rpm Type R cams are just starting to pull

 

type r cams on are shown and proven to not pull past 7600 7700 rpm. on the dyno sessions ive had for the last 7 years of dyno testing shows thats they always seem to die out but dont get me wrong u can shift at 9000 with those cams no problem. but there just not like a aftermarket cam where the power peaks out at like 9000 rpm i will post dynos for u guys to see what im talking about

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PupaScoopa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you're on an autocross, for example, overrevving up 1000 rpm would be better than a) upshifting, then having to downshift a second lator b)holding the rpms at redline and not accelerate c) fuel cut.

Just because you're not making MORE power above redline, doesn't mean you're not making any power at all; it's just sloping off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

praise this man. someone who actually knows how to think. ive been saying the same thing to myself everytime i hear the "cant rev it if you dont make power". that is BS.
just to add, you keep it revving in that gear so you dont have to get to the lower ratio of the next gear (upshifting), regardless if your power slopes. the next gear will be the slower way.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JunIntegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

praise this man. someone who actually knows how to think. ive been saying the same thing to myself everytime i hear the "cant rev it if you dont make power". that is BS.
just to add, you keep it revving in that gear so you dont have to get to the lower ratio of the next gear (upshifting), regardless if your power slopes. the next gear will be the slower way.</TD></TR></TABLE>

either way works if you are only going up 500-1000rpm without making power
anything past 1000rpm would be dumb
but dyno will show you the best shift points
take for example this motors whp

at 6rpm 140hp 7rpm 150whpp 8rpm 160whp 9rpm 150whp
now if you shift at 9rpm lets say with a b16b tranny it ll go down to 7rpm
so add 150+160+150= 460 hp on that gear
ok now lets say you shift at 8rpm same tranny it ll go down to 6rpm
140+150+160=450 hp on that gear
so this time reving to 9rpm and losing power instead of making power up there work but not the case all the time

but this works different for each motor so your dyno sheets along with whatz kind of gear ratios you have will show you your best shift point

 

yes, this makess sense. i was just stating generally.

but, i have have been wondering on this same topic for a while and was wondering f it would be totally necessary to change main and rod bearings? ive 60k on my motor and if its not necessary,ill just do pistons, rod bolts,head gasket an studs.
sound good?

 

actually i would be worried about the piston rings at that high speed... but rods, they can take a good beating and more... just be good with the maintenance schedules and you'll be fine...

 

so basically, is it safe to say a stock GSR bottom end could rev up to 9k? 8.5k?

how high?

 

listen. i been running my b16 to 10k every day. 10k does a few things from my experience

it eats your oil rings
i have awesome 220+ compression over all4, but the thing smokes so bad in vtec

it eats parts not lubricated
i have gone thorugh 3 alternators and 2 diustributors

at first i was seriously worried about the oil pump, but after those other failures, i stopped worrying so much about the motor itself and more about the parts conneted to it