ok, NOW my car (93 hatch, 95 gsr motor and ECU) will run fine and no CEL's unless its really hot outside....like i said before, the exhaust note will change and it feels like a loss in power....if i ease into VTEC i'm ok, but when i give it hell, from wherever i stomp it at until bout 5500k-6000k it feels VERY sluggish....oh yea, and it backfires alot too....i'm thinkin all this may be a faulty o2 sensor....what do you guys think?

Oh, and if the CEL is on, then it doesn't go into limp mode, yet gives me the knock sensor code...and while its bein sluggish and ****, there's no CEL at all. I'm confused as ****!!!

 

anything?

 

Doubtful that it's your 02, sounds like a bad ground. Before you go ripping your engine bay apart and throwing $100+ sensors at it, check your grounds. Did you have to jury-rig any of your ground straps? Is there corosion on any of them? Make sure you are grounded. Next, find out what that cel is. You can check it by brigding the two wire plug that hangs out next your ecu, the code will flash on your dash as a series of flashes on your "check engine" light when you turn the ignition to "on" but don't start the car. This procedure can be found in any competent repair manual. That was a shitty explanation but its typed and I don't want to do it again. I seriously doubt it is your 02. I have been running sans 02 for months now and all the car does is run rich. Then again you are OBDII so I dunno about that somone else chime in. But yeah check basic stuff first, conections are clean, grounds are good, check your oil level, you need pressure to engage VTEC. Ok thats all I got anyone else?

 

take a look at you IVAC sensor, if it's been re-rigged it could be sending your ecu a cel code. Maybe when it's hot out that sensor over heats. What cel are you getting?

 

i'll check the grounds....the CEL code is 23 (knock sensor)...engine and ECU are 95 models, therefore being OBD1.....got good oil pressure.

 

and you can drive the car, or is it loading on gas? if it seems like it's getting to much fuel make sure that you have the map sensor and TPS sensor in the right place, they're easy to mix up......

 

yea, i drive the car bout 50 mi. every day...MAP and TPS are in the right places...

 

well take it to your local Honda dealer( ahhhh I can't believe I just said that) and let them have a look, get them to hook it up to the computer and see what's going on, JL......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THE B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well take it to your local Honda dealer( ahhhh I can't believe I just said that) and let them have a look, get them to hook it up to the computer and see what's going on, JL......</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol, i was tryin to avoid that cuz i'm one broke **** right now, but thanks anyway...if anybody else has any suggestions i'd be very thankful.

 

did you check all wiring?? timing is good? what kind of mods?

 

i'll check the wiring again....not checked timing yet....AEM short ram, JG throttle body, 4-1 header, and full 2.5" exhaust (no cat)...

 

ttt

 

make sure the knock sensor is plugged.. not kitting..

my knock sensor was pulled out from egine rocking back and forth caused by bad egine mounts... and I would get a CEL when engine was fully warmed up.. check your knock sensor wire connections..

do you have and adjustable FPR & FPG? what's it set at?

 

knock sensor is plugged in and is wired right...****, sorry, forgot i have that stuff (don't know how the hell i forgot)...the guage reads 55psi with the hose on the FPR and bout 60psi with it off...

 

that's too much fuel. Stock honda fuel pressure is like 43psi. what fuel pump you running? My guess is the fuel pressure is too high, but that shouldn't give you a knock sensor CEL.

 

thats what i thought too, but i've got the FPR nut turned till if turned it any further it'd be completely loose....stock civic fuel pump

 

lower it down to 42~44psi with the hose OFF and see what happens.. and check your spark plug gaps.. as for the CEL, I still suspect the knock sensor/wiring/connections...

good luck, man

 

what ecu are you using? p72? is the knock sensor in the right plug in?

 

try pulling out your spark plugs and looking at the color. my car does the same thing but the fuel is set at 52 and the spark plugs are white as ghost. my problem still remains. ordered a new eco should be here by friday. ill let you know how that goes.

 

ok, this may really sound like a dipshit ?, and i take full responsibility for it, but i've loosened the nut all the way on the FPR, so how do i get it the PSI to go any lower? (damn i feel stupid now...)

i'm usin a p72 ECU, and the KS is in the right plug in...right below the #2 cylinder underneath the intake manifold....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stock ek sleeper &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">try pulling out your spark plugs and looking at the color. my car does the same thing but the fuel is set at 52 and the spark plugs are white as ghost. my problem still remains. ordered a new eco should be here by friday. ill let you know how that goes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok, i'll pull my plugs and check them too, thanks

 

I ment in the ecu side yo, ex( a4, d4) can't remember witch one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THE B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I ment in the ecu side yo, ex( a4, d4) can't remember witch one.</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha, oh, gotcha ...i'll check, thanks

 

you losen the nut and then use an allen wrench to adjust the stud to change the fuel pressure. such as, nut lose, allen wrench goes into end of stud and you turn it to change fuel pressure. Atleast this is how my FPR works.

white plugs, means lean conditions.
black plugs, means rich
brownish means perfect.

 

depends on what FPR you have...

if B&M, loosen the nut that hold the nipple and using a needle nose or any of that sort, turn the nipple counter clock wise.. that should lower the FP..