i need new bearings for my rebuild...should i pay extra for oem ones, or is there a cheaper kind that do just as good of a job?

 

i personally only use OEM Honda bearings when rebuilding a block.
but i have heard good things about ACL and Clevite bearings from quite a few people, though i have never used them myself. the down side is the extra cost of the OEM bearings, but you can gauge each journal and install the correct size bearing (color) instead of getting the aftermarket bearings which often are all one size. for instance all Green, which is a popular color to use since it's in the middle area of thickness. i prefer to gauge the clearances and install as close to the correct size needed as possible for each journal. if you have someone building the motor for you and want to save a few $$ then go with the ACL bearings. but you'll have to trust that the builder puts in the correct, or close to the correct, bearing sizes. not too loose or too tight, somewhere in the middle of the clearance specs.

 

i checked into clevite, but those were around the same price...i get a deal at honda, since i work there, its around $140 for all bearings i think...i think i'll just stick with oem. thanks for the info.

 

I use ACL main bearing and the clearance was right on the money, but the proline rod bearing were a bit loose. Wish I would have use oem color coded bearing.

 

ACL are usually about 100 for all bearings with lube and plastigauge... FYI

 

i have ACL'S in my car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by advanracing62 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ACL are usually about 100 for all bearings with lube and plastigauge... FYI</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you have a 1 size fits all bearing, what is the purpose of plastigauge?
Just curious
thanks

 

Definitely oe bearings. I ran clevitte bearings in my setup until last Tuesday when I spun #3 rod bearing. I checked the other bearings and found that they were all running tight. I went ahead and redid the block with oe bearings and plastigauged everything to get the clearance that I needed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by advanracing62 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ACL are usually about 100 for all bearings with lube and plastigauge... FYI</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philafelman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i checked into clevite, but those were around the same price...i get a deal at honda, since i work there, its around $140 for all bearings i think...i think i'll just stick with oem. thanks for the info.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that's a really good price. i got a discount through a friend and still paid about $170, instead of the $220 regular cost from my local dealership. i personally would rather go with OEM bearings and thrust washers and spend the extra $$.
but ACL bearings are excellent as well.

 

nothing like a oem bearing on KG racing uses acl bearings cuz there cheap

 

Anybody measured all of the colors of the oem bearings before? I need to know what color is what size on bearings for b18b1 so I woldn't have to guess...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3rdGteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anybody measured all of the colors of the oem bearings before? I need to know what color is what size on bearings for b18b1 so I woldn't have to guess...</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats not gonna help you, every block/crank combo is different. You need to read a manual and learn how to read the bearing color code/key. Theres a series of letters stamped on your block, also numbers on your crank and rods as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JaeOne3345 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats not gonna help you, every block/crank combo is different. You need to read a manual and learn how to read the bearing color code/key. Theres a series of letters stamped on your block, also numbers on your crank and rods as well. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM EK9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you have a 1 size fits all bearing, what is the purpose of plastigauge?
Just curious
thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

So you can check the clearances to see if or how much the crank will need to be polished to get it to spec.

 

I have been using ACL's. No problems at all.

Gonna be ordering another set for another motor soon

 

If you have time to build this motor, go with honda bearings.

If you are impatient, check what your clearances would be if you used all green colored bearings and if you are happy with the clearances, then you can choose ACL bearings.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JaeOne3345 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thats not gonna help you, every block/crank combo is different. You need to read a manual and learn how to read the bearing color code/key. Theres a series of letters stamped on your block, also numbers on your crank and rods as well. </TD></TR></TABLE>Those letters and numbers are stamped for the bearings that are recently in the journals (most likely green? if they haven't been taken apart), but what if you need to get a thinner/thicker bearing, what color at the dealer would you have to buy if you don't know what the measurements are besides the green ones in there now??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3rdGteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Those letters and numbers are stamped for the bearings that are recently in the journals (most likely green? if they haven't been taken apart), but what if you need to get a thinner/thicker bearing, what color at the dealer would you have to buy if you don't know what the measurements are besides the green ones in there now??</TD></TR></TABLE>

you must guess or estimate what color/size you'll need. if the crank/rod journal calls for a Yellow or Green from the factory, but now needs a slightly thicker bearing due to wear, then you will need to get some of the larger size bearings and gauge them to find out what you need for the perfect clearance. also there is a chart that the dealership has which references all of the stampings on the crank so you know what went where from the factory.

i personally have a few new OEM bearings on hand to use in order to gauge the clearance, mostly Brown and Blue which are some of the thicker sizes. the block i just built used Brown and Blue bearings only. no Green bearings or anything thinner etc. you can use the chart to estimate what bearings you need, but gauging really is the only accurate method for the proper clearance.

 

Newbie question:
When changing bearings is there any machining needed to the crank? Also, when you change bearings is there something else you MUST also do?(Like any other parts need to be changed?) TIA

 

stick with the factory to get the best clearances. match the old bearing colors

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bizarre &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Newbie question:
When changing bearings is there any machining needed to the crank? Also, when you change bearings is there something else you MUST also do?(Like any other parts need to be changed?) TIA</TD></TR></TABLE>

one thing to check when disassembling the bottom end is the rod journals (if using the OEM rods again) and the crank journals for an 'out-of-round' condition, and also for marring of any kind from excessive wear etc.

thoroughly cleaning all the parts and then inspecting them for the above must be done. then if the block mains, crank/rod journals are good to go you can start checking the bearing clearances to find out what colors/thicknesses are needed.
linked to rebuilding the bottom end would be new water pump, new oil pump, new rear main seal, checking/honing the sleeves, new piston rings, and new misc gaskets and seals. that way the entire block is good to go and fresh. OEM parts are the way to go with most items, cept for maybe rods, pistons w/rings or maybe even new sleeves for strength.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philafelman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i need new bearings for my rebuild...should i pay extra for oem ones, or is there a cheaper kind that do just as good of a job?</TD></TR></TABLE>

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IF U R GOING TO USE AN AFTER MARKET ROD CAN U USE THE SAME COLOR BEARINGS THAT WHERE ON THE OLD ROD?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMHONDAHB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IF U R GOING TO USE AN AFTER MARKET ROD CAN U USE THE SAME COLOR BEARINGS THAT WHERE ON THE OLD ROD? </TD></TR></TABLE>

if you want the perfect clearances, that will depend on what # the new aftermarket rod is. the factory rods are #1-4, but aftermarket rods like the Eagle H-beams may be all #3 in size. so then if you have an OEM rod that uses a Green bearing with the original crank, and you switch to a #3 Eagle or the like, then you will have to adjust the bearing thickness accordingly. which would be about one bearing color thicker to maintain about the same clearance.