Does anyone have decent to good pics of their front brake cooling ducts? i'd like to see how you did it, where you mounted it, etc . .

Could you post here, or email me with them.

Thanks!
Jeff

 

Mine are still a work in progress.


Inlets in front bumper:




Rotor blank off plates:





Rotor blank off plates are just about finished, put a coat of black high temp paint on them last night... not sure i'm going to finish this project before i move to florida (this weekend)... so, i may not be able to post any pics of the 2" ducting and it's routing through the maze. Inlets to the rotor blank off plates are as large as possible, much test fitting was done. I ended up just using a 2" OD piece of pipe.. and smashing it with a ******* hammer into the appropriate shape. And it actually turned out real well. The location of the inlet is extremely tight in the first place, on the inboard, lower side of the steering knuckle.

uh, hope that helps. i might be able to get some pics of the final product before install.

regards,

D

 

What are the rotor blank off plates for? Did you do the inlets yourself?

 

******* hammers are the best

 

rotor blank off plates: well, they blank off the annular region on the back side of the rotor between the steering knuckle and the ID of inner hat of the rotor. allows you to create positive air pressure within the rotor itself (once ducting is connected), thus forcing air through the vanes of the rotor.

"did you do the inlets yourself?"

yes

D

 

yeah, they always seem to be the cure...

D

 

that is a very bad design for the brake duct, you are not suppose to direct the air to the disc (cooling one side of the disc brake will cause a bucket disc coz disc only got heated up one side), but to the centre vent of the disc, hope this help.

 

yes.... air should be forced to the centre of the disk, the motion of the rotors will then spread and force the airflow through the cooling vents.


[Modified by N1 Spec, 7:02 AM 8/16/2001]

 

huh? i have no idea what you're talking about, if you could elaborate a bit, i'd appreciate it. Maybe you don't understand where these are being installed, but it is not cooling only one side of the disc, it's being directed to the center of the rotor to pass air from the inside of the hat, through the vanes.

air will be forced to the center of the disc. again, any further insight would be appreciated. directional vanes (which i don't have) assist in pumping out air from center out of the rotors. non directional vanes don't really do much.

any more info/comments appreciated.

D

 

I think that we should have included a ruler for scale, he thinks that the "vent" part of the blank-off plate will be directly aimed at the inside face of the disc...it's smaller than that. The whole assembly will fit just over the annular region of the disc, so that air ends up in the cavity (slightly offcenter, of course) and forces air through the vanes of the disc, cooling it (hopefully). D, now i just gotta find those UK inserts...

 

D - If you don't have the blanks in right now, how are the ducts routed currently?

You're moving out of the 'burgh...and to Florida...good choice!!!

Just an FYI: my car is still in the shop. Pushed one side of the engine back ~2 inches, bending the engine mount (which I guess is nearly impossible to bend). Getting that replaced and hopefully will have my car this week. Been 5 weeks w/o a ride, this blows!

 

BIG F-ing hammers, that's the solution to every problem.

 

Do we really need this brake cooling duct thing? I think it looks cool, just like the new ITR in Japan has one. But is it worth the time & money to do this?

 

looks good Deeeeeeee, is that stailness or mild steel? did you not want to use the factory backing plates? i would have made something to just cover the ID to the rotor and not the entire friction surface area. case in point F1 style CF ducting.

anyway any air to the rotors is always a good thing!

 

If you track the car it is SUPER good to have.

I drove a stock Type-R at the expo and me and another driver had really bad brake fade to to over heating and also ended up ashing the pads.

 

It's not necessary for street use, or even autocross use. But once you hit the track, depending how hard the course (and the driver) are on brakes, it's alot better to have as much working for you as possible. We both got a little overheated at Nelson Ledges in 20-30 minute sessions (on stock pads, admittedly), but for anything over a half hour functional brake ducts are worth their weight in gold. Nothing like hitting the middle pedal and having it sink to the floor along with your heart at 100+ MPH...

 

thanks man. It's mild stainless.... factory backing plates... heh, i mutilated one of them trying to shape it to something worthwhile... and like aleph said.. the picture is very decptive in terms of size, the backing plates fill the empty annular region between the outer portion of the steering knuckle, and the ID of the inside of the hat of the rotor. this is nowhere near the friction area, where the pads contact the rotor. guess i'll have to install one tonight, and have aleph come over and take some digipics to clear things up.

any additional comments welcome.

oh, if you guys havn't figured it out... they're made of two pieces(well, 4 actually, the little tabs hold the two large pieces together), so you can install them without pulling the hub out of the knuckle, and install onto the existing screw holes for the OEM dust/heat shields.

D

 

like carlex said.... if you ever get to the track, you will understand why brake ducting is uber important. necessary? daily driving... no, autox.... no... doing 125 down the back straight, and braking to 40 mph for turn 13 every lap for 30 minutes... then doing that for 5 or 6 sessions.... HELL YES!

i need some porterfields now.... and my damn V700's are getting close to being laid to rest... doh!

D

 

D,
What proterfields are you running? R4 or a street pad (R4S?). Ever run Hawks? I always run a street/Track pad like the Hawk HP+ and they do fine but you seem to have a lot more time invested in track setup here . . . .

 

very good job D,

those inlets are very similar to the euro/jdm fog lights inlets. i'm thinking of using those...

 

not on porterfields, but i need to pick up some R4S... i've just been killing OEM pads... running cheap old Axis metal masters as of now...

 

proably because they are UKDM foglight housings..... heh...

D

 

ok! i'm a jerk!!!!

 

Aleph: I think the pepsi can and that black marker do a pretty good job of showing scale....

 

Well, cant get the pic to show up. Just look at Andrew's sig. He has a pic in there. I copied his method. How you gonna do that on your hatch?