2.0l all motor set up, 13:1 compression with nitrious....
Well my current set up is as follows: b16a head stock, sleeved and bored 2.0l b18c5 block, eagle forged rods, weisco 13:1 forged pistons, VFAC, complete msd ignition system and a 75 shot of nitrious. I have not taken the motor to the dino to tune it until I get hondata and some extra money. I had a question with the b16 head and 13:1 compression pistons where shoould my compression be around? I'm thinking somewhere around 12 something. Also what kind of shot do you think the motor can take? It will be running off 93 octance Amoco gas.
ummmm... All motor and "shot" don't mix. ask this in FI if you're going to spray. 13:1 is high for the bottle anyhow....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Zex_Nitrous »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I have not taken the motor to the dino to tune it .</TD></TR></TABLE>
Damn Dino tunes cars now?? I thought he was just a dinosaur YABA DABA DOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
Damn Dino tunes cars now?? I thought he was just a dinosaur YABA DABA DOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
sorry about that dyno! But if you read the post the only thing I wanted to know is what my compression would be with 13:1 compression pistons I forgot to mention that the pistons were made for a GSR and if I am not mistaken the use of a b16 head on a b18 block lowers the compression ration. I was asking what would the compression be? Is there some type of formula that I can use to calculate the compression ratio?
High compression and n20 works, but unfortunatly it leaves you with not much room for error in tuning. You need to have built bottom end, you can kiss cast pistons good bye in a day, and you better make sure you have enough fuel.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CIVIC2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Damn Dino tunes cars now?? I thought he was just a dinosaur YABA DABA DOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO</TD></TR></TABLE>
ROFLAMO!!!!!
Damn Dino tunes cars now?? I thought he was just a dinosaur YABA DABA DOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO</TD></TR></TABLE>
ROFLAMO!!!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by advanracing62 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ummmm... All motor and "shot" don't mix. ask this in FI if you're going to spray. 13:1 is high for the bottle anyhow.... </TD></TR></TABLE>
tune it and it will work fine. y however you should be running race gas 110 or better to make it live on the nawwwzz (y0).
tune it and it will work fine. y however you should be running race gas 110 or better to make it live on the nawwwzz (y0).
when using nitrous w/ high compression, could you ceramic coat the pistons domes instead of dishing out the money for forged pistons. i.e. cerammic coated CTR pistons
you'll probably have one of the fastest runs of the day.... too bad you'll be towing your car home from the track.
Yeah, you should be right around 12:1 cr. With 93 octane I wouldn't even think of putting any spray in it.
I'm not saying that it can't be done but why do it? I'd suggest that you pick up a direct port kit, run a 75 shot, get a fuel pump if you don't have one yet, and run race fuel. VP makes an unleaded 99 octane fuel. Buy a drum of that if you are going to spray alot.
If you have to be on 93 octane try a 50 shot and get it tuned very well and very safe.
I'm not saying that it can't be done but why do it? I'd suggest that you pick up a direct port kit, run a 75 shot, get a fuel pump if you don't have one yet, and run race fuel. VP makes an unleaded 99 octane fuel. Buy a drum of that if you are going to spray alot.
If you have to be on 93 octane try a 50 shot and get it tuned very well and very safe.
You'll have a hard time running 13:1 on 93 octane, let alone on a 75shot...
It can be done, but to be quite honest it would be better if motor ran on 100+octane for all-motor duty and 116octane when your going to spray it.
Tuning will be Key...I would sell those pistons, and run some 11.5:1 pistons on a 60shot for street and 93 octane and 125shot on c16 track duty...two hondata tunes on two different chips..each with 2 maps for nitrous/allmotor..
It can be done, but to be quite honest it would be better if motor ran on 100+octane for all-motor duty and 116octane when your going to spray it.
Tuning will be Key...I would sell those pistons, and run some 11.5:1 pistons on a 60shot for street and 93 octane and 125shot on c16 track duty...two hondata tunes on two different chips..each with 2 maps for nitrous/allmotor..
To put a bored ITR with GsR head to 13.0:1 compression you'd need pistons with around a 8.25cc dome, if you switched the head to a B16 head you'd have around a 12.7:1 compression ratio
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Zex_Nitrous »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can't change the compression of the pistons but do you think it could handle a 25 shot?</TD></TR></TABLE>
not on pump gas. 13:1 is almost impossible to run without a lot of tuning. but good luck bro.
not on pump gas. 13:1 is almost impossible to run without a lot of tuning. but good luck bro.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bolivianstrtwpn »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ceramic coat the pistons domes instead of dishing out the money for forged pistons.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Coating the skirt of the piston does help, but coating the dome with anything is just like coating it with carbon deposits. On the other hand, polishing the dome reduces the surface area for carbon to deposit.
Coating the skirt of the piston does help, but coating the dome with anything is just like coating it with carbon deposits. On the other hand, polishing the dome reduces the surface area for carbon to deposit.
if your car is a dyno baby then it will be fine, you need to have that set up tuned so good to work well. It can be done just dont be pissed if it does go ka booooom
With an ITR block and B16 head you will have 12.8:1 compression.
You can run this on 93 octane. If you get some bad gas, it will act up. But it should be fine for the most part. If you tune it you could easily run a 50-75 shot on pump gas.
If you ran close to 100 octane at the track, I would run 150 shot through it depending on your valvetrain. What kind of valvetrain upgrades do you have?
You can run this on 93 octane. If you get some bad gas, it will act up. But it should be fine for the most part. If you tune it you could easily run a 50-75 shot on pump gas.
If you ran close to 100 octane at the track, I would run 150 shot through it depending on your valvetrain. What kind of valvetrain upgrades do you have?
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You build a NOS motor just like you are as a NA motor. So the the CR is fine. The key is to be very conservative on the timing and jet settings and slowly tune it up when you squeeze. Window of error is smaller with bigger shots. It'll handle 75 shots fogger types easily.
Just don't rush it. If the motor is well built and the nitrous is installed and tuned correctly. Direct port of 150 or more shots is certainly no problem. Tuning is the key! Don't listen to these fools about nitrous. It doesn't sound like lot of these people have any real experience with it. I don't either but I have friends that do and I know enough about them to tell you the above.
Just don't rush it. If the motor is well built and the nitrous is installed and tuned correctly. Direct port of 150 or more shots is certainly no problem. Tuning is the key! Don't listen to these fools about nitrous. It doesn't sound like lot of these people have any real experience with it. I don't either but I have friends that do and I know enough about them to tell you the above.
My current head is stock. With that kind of compression I will get some good horse power out of some Skunk stage 3's or mabe the Zex cams. As goes for the springs and retainers I will stick to the name brand I get the cams from. As for the valves I will stick to stock or should I upgrade these also?
[QUOTE= It will be running off 93 octance Amoco gas.[/QUOTE]
dont think you could run 13.1:1 compression on pump gas. IF you could it will take ALOT of tuning
dont think you could run 13.1:1 compression on pump gas. IF you could it will take ALOT of tuning
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueHatch00 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
dont think you could run 13.1:1 compression on pump gas. IF you could it will take ALOT of tuning
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You can run 13:1 on pump gas, almost certainly gonna have to be 93 and you will need a hondata(or other stand alone) to run it right. Going with a shot, you would probably be better suited to run 12:1 or 12.5:1, there's a little more room for error with those. I plan on running either 12 or 12.5:1 and putting 125-150 shot on my car once it's fully built(head and all) so it might be a little safer. U might want to make sure your head will handle all the power. Last thing you wanna do is break a cam on a 125 shot. Like everyone has said, tuning is the key. Spend good money getting it tuned. $500 to get it tuned is better than $3K to rebuild your block.
Chris
dont think you could run 13.1:1 compression on pump gas. IF you could it will take ALOT of tuning
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You can run 13:1 on pump gas, almost certainly gonna have to be 93 and you will need a hondata(or other stand alone) to run it right. Going with a shot, you would probably be better suited to run 12:1 or 12.5:1, there's a little more room for error with those. I plan on running either 12 or 12.5:1 and putting 125-150 shot on my car once it's fully built(head and all) so it might be a little safer. U might want to make sure your head will handle all the power. Last thing you wanna do is break a cam on a 125 shot. Like everyone has said, tuning is the key. Spend good money getting it tuned. $500 to get it tuned is better than $3K to rebuild your block.
Chris



