so i just put in the 4 wire o2 sensor and all i got to say so far is it read much more accurate then the single one. My Air/Fuel Gauge reads like it did in the accord.. one to 2 bars lights up at a time and bonces at cruising speeds. Before all the lights would be lit up real dim and one would be bright in the rich area.. now it runs right in the middle alittle to the lean side.. Hopefully this will get me my gas milage back i'll update when i drive it around more.. I'd recommend for everyone do this.

 

Which sensor did you use and how did you wire it up? I just did the new stock like sensors in my b16 and it is all over the place on my a/f gauge similer to your issue. It would be nice for it to be accurate for once.

 

i used one out of a 94 Civic DX.. the white wire goes to the ECU and gauge, the green is ground and the 2 blacks are the heater wires they need to be on a switched power source, right now i'm not using the heater

 

So you can convert four wire sensors to a 1 wire sensor... Damn I searched the internet and couldn't find anything about it, I've had two brand new four wires in my garage for the longest time.

 

I suppose you wouldnt have to use the heater as it is so close to the exhaust port. Let us know how it does long term. It's already on my list of future mods.

 

Any updates?

 

I'm concerned about the heater wires... Doesn't the ECU turn those off once, the O2 reaches operating temps? I would think this would burn up the sensor...

 

I am not certain. Time to ask someone with that newfangled OBD 1 or OBD 2.

 

I've used one for about 6mo now and put about 5k miles on it haven't had any problems with the heating unit. Its on with the ignition switch. It starts reading normal within 10sec unlike unheated so it work correctly.

 

Ah sweet. Good enough for me. Are you running one or 2 sensors? Just curious. Allegedly, the PR3 and PR0 cars run better with either the sensors swapped (location wise) or with the 2 wires from the ECU spliced together into only one sensor.

 

right now using a single one in the bottoom of the 1st haft of the mani its not the collector but all 4 cyl are merged at this point. Its the stock mani so no sense in putting a bung on it. When I get the funds for another header I'll go ahead with the 2.

 

I was considering going with a 4 wire just cause of the heated element I have problems with my O2 sensor cooling off and throwing a CEL but if its warmer outside I dont have one problem what so ever in fact last night it started getting cooler by me and I started getting the CEL once again.....

So does anyone know for a fact that it would burn out if it was just hooked up to a power that turned on the heater when the car was on??

 

you can have the heating element on all the time. No adverse reactions. I've run mine for 1 year originally on the sohc vtec swap and then I switched back to the original.
BUT if you think you'll get better sniff'n with the heated one over the 1 wire unit, you're wrong.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EFSiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can have the heating element on all the time. No adverse reactions. I've run mine for 1 year originally on the sohc vtec swap and then I switched back to the original.
BUT if you think you'll get better sniff'n with the heated one over the 1 wire unit, you're wrong.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im not trying to have better readings I am just trying to keep it heated up since once it cools down is when I get a code.

 

That's correct... the ECU cycles the heater off/on continually once the car is up to operating temperature. Using the heater all the time will overheat the sensor. How much? Is it enough to burn out the sensor? I don't know. But I'm not putting in a 4-wire O2 until I have the ECU to match it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raene &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's correct... the ECU cycles the heater off/on continually once the car is up to operating temperature. Using the heater all the time will overheat the sensor. How much? Is it enough to burn out the sensor? I don't know. But I'm not putting in a 4-wire O2 until I have the ECU to match it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds real ghetto but what if I wired it to a switch and just turned it off and on occasionally on my own?? Its really only needed when its cold like I said but to all of a sudden get a CEL it kind of sucks.

 

That'd work too, but I'm not sure the period of the cycle that the ECU uses. It might cycle it as fast as the O2 scrolls, or it might be a minute-per-minute cycle, or it might be based on RPM (ie it's on more often at idle since the exiting gasses are colder) etc. Like people said already, it works to just hook it up so having a switch + trying to emulate the ECU's cycling might be overkill I just can't afford to replace anything if it breaks

 

well so far i have like 200 miles on it and it seems to improved my gas milage i'm not sure ho wmuch yet but next time i fill up i'll let u know. as for the heater, i'm not using it at all, its hot enough here to where it warms up in like 30 seconds. Maybe in the winter i'll using it and put it on a switch, i'm still looking for a relay that has a delay timer on it so when i turn on the car it comes on for like 1 minute then turns off. Kinda like auto dimmer headlights(they stay on after the car is off for a minute or so then turn off).
As for reading better as opposed to the 1 wire.. it read much better, before it would barly read at all, now it read perfect. I tryed using mulitple O2 sensors and they all did the same thing. I personaly think the 4 wire ones read much better just from experence.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raene &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That'd work too, but I'm not sure the period of the cycle that the ECU uses. It might cycle it as fast as the O2 scrolls, or it might be a minute-per-minute cycle, or it might be based on RPM (ie it's on more often at idle since the exiting gasses are colder) etc. Like people said already, it works to just hook it up so having a switch + trying to emulate the ECU's cycling might be overkill I just can't afford to replace anything if it breaks </TD></TR></TABLE>
I know exactly what you mean about replacing something if it breaks I dont want to be going through O2 sensors like I am going through gas. Thats why I mentioned the swtich that way if anything i could atleast turn it on during city or stop in go traffic and then turn it off for those higher speed roads or the freeway.