My first one went out after 45K miles.. now.. almost 25K miles later, rotor kinda starting to look like the old one.. but car still runs fine..

And.. did anyone try autozone rotors.. if they make them?

 

OEM only for me.

 

"OEM only for me." me too

I did my last one at 20k and now its time for another car and rotor at 42k

 

how do u know when you need a new one?

 

open it and look at the contact points, if they have been worn down then change.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">open it and look at the contact points, if they have been worn down then change.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea but isn't there a way u can tell by how it operates?, kuz i never checked mine, i dont even know if it is a problem, my question is how can you tell or what are syptoms in the way the car drives, operates?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igotyofire &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yea but isn't there a way u can tell by how it operates?, kuz i never checked mine, i dont even know if it is a problem, my question is how can you tell or what are syptoms in the way the car drives, operates?</TD></TR></TABLE>

bump for a good question. I like to know too

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igotyofire &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yea but isn't there a way u can tell by how it operates?, kuz i never checked mine, i dont even know if it is a problem, my question is how can you tell or what are syptoms in the way the car drives, operates?</TD></TR></TABLE>

car may possibly run hotter.. like higher oil temps - not sure about that..

check engine light may come on while cruising for no reason and you may get fuel cuttof at early rpm.. and your car may turn off when you come to a stop.. but i think right the contact point is brown where my old rotor charcoal color.

i would try aftermarket one.. i'm just worried about it staying in place, so i'd liek to see if anyone used it..

 

Does it feel slow or hesitate?
are you getting misfires at any speed?
How is your MPG?
if you go on a dyno did you notice any lose in hp?
Does your car feel as smooth?
Do you see any sparks shooting out from the cap area?
If you touch you car do you get zapped by an unseen spark?
Are you spark plugs in good condition?
does your car start as easy?

 

from honda "replace every 60k or 6years" that also goes for the spark plugs.

so any increment equal or less would be idea.

personally i change every year with new wires, plugs, cap, and rotor.

i would also stick with GENUINE HONDA PARTS

but i have friends that use napa cap and rotor(gsr and b16) and it seems to work find so i guess if you wanted to try out a 3rd party part use them

 

I would stick with the OEM parts. These parts are not that expensive.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igotyofire &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yea but isn't there a way u can tell by how it operates?, kuz i never checked mine, i dont even know if it is a problem, my question is how can you tell or what are syptoms in the way the car drives, operates?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Althought Honda says change every 60k miles if you go with NON OEM like Auto Zone expect that to be a lot more frequent. My Auto Zone Wires were like 20 bux they come with a Life time warranty, but they only last for about a YEAR. The Cap and rotor lasts a bit longer but I have no ral testiment to that as the OEM honda parts just recently went ba and I replaced with Cheap Auto Zone replace ments a bit more than a year ago with no signs og going bad on me.
What signs:
1: Lower Fuel economy (not always the case cause other things can come into play with fuel economy but if the ignition system is off then there will most often be bad fuel economy
2: Hesitation and Sputtering this is some of the more severe problems
3: Car won't stay started again this is a more sever symptom of a rotor and or Cap that should have been replaced a long time ago

Main thing is that these Items should be checked atleast once a year. Just inspect them on a regular basis and forego all the guess work.

Don't recommend anything other than Honda OEM parts unless you are rebuilding your engine and you are performing maintenance on the temp trans plant egine

 

yup my car had this damn problem for like 2 years... couldnt figure it out so i took it to like 10 different mechanics... finally tried Jackson Racing cuz some dumb mechanic said "its your supercharger, go to Jackson Racing". i went there anyways cuz I was desperate and was willing to try anything... and they swapped out the distributor rotor and the car ran better than ever.

 

I hear a weird tapping and clicking noise coming from mine. What does that mean? I only have 45000 miles on the car.

 

thanks.. i guess i'll stay with oem.. anyone knows if b16 dist. rotor is same as gsr or type r?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check engine light may come on while cruising for no reason and you may get fuel cuttof at early rpm..</TD></TR></TABLE>This is exactly what happened to me before my rotor broke off the set screw.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4505 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I hear a weird tapping and clicking noise coming from mine. What does that mean? I only have 45000 miles on the car. </TD></TR></TABLE>

With only 45k on the car it is not likely but the tapping and Clicking from a Distributor may mean the bearings inside have gone out.

Usually a Distriutor will last a lot longer though

 

its not really a hard procedure. takes about the same time to take the dist. cap off and inspect, then it would to try to find out why the car is acting funny.