Alright lets just start off by saying that I have never ran into so much trouble doing a swap before in my life. I have done 2 civics myself and helped with about 5 other civics one being an h22 swap.

Well first off the problem started off with the thing was dumping WAY too much fuel and flooding the cylinders with gas and causing it not to start. We took off the fuel rail and realized that when the car was tryin to start as you turned the ignition back to the off position it would shoot out WAY too much fuel looked like a damn super soaker. We then put everythin back and took off the fuel return line and the car finally started, but now it was dumping all the returned fuel into a bag which wasnt going to work. We put a bigger fuel return line on it and it started a few times, the last time I started it, it would not rev past 3200 it was almost like it was hitting a rev limiter or flooding itself out one of the two. I went in tried to find something on here as to why it would be doing that then the next day I tried to start it again and once again I smelled gas really bad. I checked the spark plugs and they were once again soaked in fuel. We tried changing out the fuel regulator with my b16 one and once again soaked in fuel. We then put in dry spark plugs and it tried to turn over and had spark but didnt actually start, checked those and they were drenched. My friends say they can hear the injectors shooting fuel after I have turned the key off like spitting it into the chambers. I really need to find out what is going on with this thing because it is not my car and I want it out of my garage and I never want to see it again. Why cant it just be easy?!

Any help would be greatly appreciated, I am totally lost at this point.

 

by the way this is a 94 accord lx with a 93 jdm prelude swap.

 

i wish i could help you but i really can't, BUT i live in terre haute indiana and my girl lives in evansville. I do lowriders and accords and i'm looking to do a swap sometime this winter in my 91 accord and would pay someone to help me out since this is my first import swap.

shoot me an e-mail please:
jbinder@ma.rr.com

 

for the fuel problem, something isnt in line in the fuel system, or maybe the FPR is out of whack. Second try resetting the ECU and seeing if it revs higher, possibly had a code thrown or its in limp mode

 

what about your map sensor, maybe your just running real rich. You bought a prelude map sensor right. Are you throwing any codes?

 

the check engine light is one while it is running but then when we put the jumper wire in to check codes it will not flash. So I dont know what is going on...I thought it was in Limp mode too...we are using a throttle body and all the sensors off of the f22 could that have somethign to do with it because the tps on the h22 was broken we were planning on drilling the TPS off of the f22 tb and putting it on the h22 tb but the gasket just came in today. Could that be the problem? And also anyone have any idea why the check engine light is not flashing?

 

ok also the car will not even start now....it has already flooded 3 sets of plugs with gas today.

 

might be a dumb question but are you using a p13 ecu when i did my h22 swap into my lx the stock ecu ran poorly on gas

 

i would remove the fuel injector wiring from the rest of the harness and run a subharness for it.
i had one injector that fired 100% in my civic swa and it was a cse of there being voltage bleed casuing it. once i separated out the injecotr wiring i was able to make it run perfectly.

 

yes, we are using the p13 ecu. Does anyone have any idea why we cant check codes?

 

Faulty ECU? Have you tried another ECU yet?
Are the injectors bad? As far as sticking open?

 

sounds like an ecu fault....

 

anyone else have any ideas why this ecu would not be flashing codes???

 

Alright, the car will now start and idle fine, but when we step on the gas or try to rev it by hand it will only rev to 3,000 rpms then sounds like it is backfiring or hitting a rev limiter almost. The check engine light is still on but it will not flash codes still.

 

distributor? spark wires?

 

3000 rpm is the lowest limp mode setting on the ecu.
its either a bad ecu or you have sensors switched up all over the place that are giving bad signal. crossed power or shorts in the harness can also cause that.
i would suggest taking your harness apart and tracing wires and checking every solder, splice and change you made in it as well as test with a diff ecu...hopefully someone else who doesnt mind possibly losing the ecu to your wiring...

 

We checked the ECU on shane's car and it worked fine....he is the one that did the wiring and said he did it the same as his civic....I was wondering if maybe something wasnt supposed to be the same as his civic or something.....I will have him trace it though I guess.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88sirhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We checked the ECU on shane's car and it worked fine....he is the one that did the wiring and said he did it the same as his civic....I was wondering if maybe something wasnt supposed to be the same as his civic or something.....I will have him trace it though I guess.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you say his CIVIC? What do you mean by that? If i'm not mistaken, i think the Civic and Accord swaps are a bit different in wiring aren't they? I believe this is the Accord/Prelude swap right? Well, i've had the same problem before in MY old civic when i did the d16 swap. It'll hit 4300 rpms and thats it. I ended up redoing all the wiring and changing the injectors to LS and ecu to LS...then it hit redline. I just hope it's not the same in this case.

 

yeah I said his civic...he did the h22 swap into his EG H/B. And the extra things such as Vtec, EGR and lengthening things he did the same as his civic but it should be the same because we are using the same ECUs on both cars.

 

i ahve been talking to shane also...and i am willing to bet that he isnt the only one that has touched that wire harness...he may hahve mod;d it but if it was damaged at all such as pinched during engine removal..that could cause a lot of problems.

 

anyway get your wiring diagram out
start tracing wires
make sure you got the right stuff plugged in at the right places
cause if teh ecu is fine then you got mixed sensors or wires right now.

 

i had this exact same problem when i was swapping in a B16 in my EF
what mine turned out beion was the wiring at the ECU was completely backwards
i would start checking the wiring between ECU to the Engine
hope this helps

 

Well we just found out what the problem was.....something to do with the oil pressure switch for vtec. The thing was filled with some form of liquid that I guess was messing everything up...we unplugged that and everything works fine so now I guess IM gonna bypass that to run off the vtec solenoid and everything should be straight...I have never seen this before......

 

fuel regulater? Different ECU?