i plan on either buying ctr intake cam or spendign mad more and getting some crowers.. how does the ctr perform is it worth juss buying the intake cam? please give me the pros and cons of this cam or ne other cams that i should maybe purchases

 

If it were me, and I was stuck on all motor, I wouldnt just go with CTR cams. You can score an Intake cam for so cheap, but in terms of labor, or if youre doing it yourself, I would save up and get cams that will make more power.

Its not worth it to me to go through popping an int cam in for not-so-amazing gains. If youre serious about the setup, you may want to wait and go with something more aggressive down the line. If you just want to make a bit more power, I guess a CTR intake cam is a good choice. But you'll want more...

 

i got '00 ITR cams and they are a good supplement to bolt ons and minor non-bolt on tweaks if you don't want to go to the trouble of overhauling all your internals.

 

itr ( or ctr whatever ) cams provide the most midrange power from 4k to 7k out of all the cams on the market i believe (or so that one dyno showed us...)

i would just find some 00itr cams, you can usually find them for about 300-350 or so, plus the install isn't too terrible. there are loads of write ups on how to so it shoudln't be a problem.

personally, i wouldn't recommend going with just an intake cam, cams are meant to work in conjunction with each other and you are giving a boost to pulling in air, but in no way are you helping out the exhaust side of your setup. what are you other mods, and what are you going for?

 

as of now i have a cat back exhaust and a cold air intake.. and a chipped p28.. would it be better 2 buy 2 typercams orjuss 1 intake cam.. from wat ive read the intake ctr cam is more agressive and the ctr and itr cams are equal.. after the cam i would invest in a skunk2 manifold..

 

If you do get the itr cams make sure you upgrade your fuel pump that will help eith the gains

 

you upgrading internals-compression,head etc.... if not...get some skunk2 stage 1 if i were you....but i'm not..so it's up to you

 

I'm going with Skunk 2 (1)'s. I currently have the basic I/H/E and an Exedy clutch that needs to be installed.

I'm buying a vafc later this week for a decent price and will continue with Skunk 2 cam gears. I'm hoping for 170 whp when its all said and done. Then I'm going to continue with the mani,itr tb, and cai. Prob. some internals also.

I'd recomend that you go with both the intake and exhaust cam. You will want more power, trust me. CTR's are very good I've heard along with the Skunks.

Talk to Skunk2nR he has a pretty good set up.

 

In about a week I'll be getting my fully built C1 motor back from the machine shop with all 01 R internals. The guy said I can prolly get 185-190 with a good I/H/E....(iceman, DC 4-1, RS*R exhaust). I wanted to stay OEM because you can't be HOnda reliability and I want to keep stock idle....I'll let you know how it turns out.....but I'd say go with OEM baby!

 

I agree with what someone else said. If you change the cams change them both. CTR Cams are fine there are people on this board making close to 200+ to the wheels with CTR ad ITR cams. Problem is some are so quick to go aftermarket when the full potential of the Stock cams haven't even been realized. (Stock meanind Honda Products) With proper tuning these cams can handel what ever you throw at it. Depending on your setup you are looking at up to 20+ hp with CTR cams

Go with something more agressive cause you'll want more eventually??? LOL Yeah but this is ALWAYS trueno matter what you start with.

Someone Mentioned Skunk 2 Stage 1? Well comparing the intake cams the CTR has More Lift on the High lobe but it has about 20 degrees more duration on the intake side. If you're not upgrading the Valve train (springs and such) then I'd stay away from the Longer Duration cams.
In general More Lift translates in to More repetitive power across the power band while increased durations shifts the HP and TQ to a higher RPM.
ALL THINGS same More duration will result in better top end and mid range while sacraficing lowend torque.
With 20 degrees more duration you are effectivly shifting your REDline (peak HP RPM) up by about 1000 rpms

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PainfulTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In about a week I'll be getting my fully built C1 motor back from the machine shop with all 01 R internals. The guy said I can prolly get 185-190 with a good I/H/E....(iceman, DC 4-1, RS*R exhaust). I wanted to stay OEM because you can't be HOnda reliability and I want to keep stock idle....I'll let you know how it turns out.....but I'd say go with OEM baby!</TD></TR></TABLE>

good i/h/e...what you've listed are OKAY...but if you want GOOD....you need to look at the other ones...smsp stuff..