i have seen various crank pulleys for sale claiming all sorts of whp. anyone know a good brand or are most of them all the same? how much whp can they really produce? what should i look for when getting one
thanks

 

try unorthodox racing.

 

don't get the UR that **** sucks. get a CFR crank shaft pully. its even lighter and gain more Horses than UR. try calling AK1motorsports.com 949-869-9444 they only sell it. ask for chris

 

You could also try http://www.dh-racing.com Bisi uses his pulley

 

Yeah UR stuff is horrible.

I've been using there Ultra R pully for 30,000+ and I love it.

 

b18junky: aftermarket crank pulleys often lack a ring of rubber in between each pulley which acts as a harmonic balancer. some argue that the absence of the harmonic balancer can lead to premature bearing failure among other things. do a search and see if the minor gains are worth it...

 

the main thing i did to combat agaist any vibrations happening with using my ultra r pully was i hat it installed when i was having the crank ballenced so that the whole assembly came out ballenced

if youre looking to put it on a virtually stock motor you wont see much of a gain, i would look at doing other bolt ons and such first

 

I'm not trying to be controversial, but don't listen to these last two replies. They don't cause premature bearing wear or oil pump failure. PERIOD.

If I had a stock 99-00 Si and I had one bolt on choice between your basics like I/TB/IM/H/TP/E etc.... I would pick Ultra R pulley and Ultra A alt pulley in a sec. The sheer fact of eliminating over 100lbs of dead weight combined with eliminating 7lbs 5oz off of your drivtrain is just silly. I mean it's the same effect of a light weight flywheel, but better because not only to you elimeinate all the rotational mass, but dead weight as well. It's been my favorite bolt on so far.

Combine this with an ACT ProLite and SRR 4.7:1 FD and damn does she like to rev.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Milano &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not trying to be controversial, but don't listen to these last two replies. They don't cause premature bearing wear or oil pump failure. PERIOD.

If I had a stock 99-00 Si and I had one bolt on choice between your basics like I/TB/IM/H/TP/E etc.... I would pick Ultra R pulley and Ultra A alt pulley in a sec. The sheer fact of eliminating over 100lbs of dead weight combined with eliminating 7lbs 5oz off of your drivtrain is just silly. I mean it's the same effect of a light weight flywheel, but better because not only to you elimeinate all the rotational mass, but dead weight as well. It's been my favorite bolt on so far.

Combine this with an ACT ProLite and SRR 4.7:1 FD and damn does she like to rev.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, here's the experience of a few that will argue the opposite:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=319189

 

Hey suit youself. I beat the **** out of it on track days and local auto-x's. 30,000 miles on em and m bearings are oh so sweet.

 

i been useing UR pullies on my cars for the last 4 years, i was runnin it on my turbo car and i rolled into the throttle in third gear one day the car boosted and then i felt a small surge in the car and the oil light came on, i had the car towed home and dropped the pan and found metal all threw it took the oil pump off and apart and sure enough 18 peices of gear all laying in there dead. i ordered a prodrive oil pump gear for the car and put a stock pulling back on it but i put the UR on my LS beater car.i seen this same thing happen on another turbo car also. as far as bearing failure i never personally seen it ,oil pump failure i seen it twice. im not blameing the pully im was just eliminateing it just in case. the pully was on the turbo car for 3000 boosted miles and that includes 21 dyno runs not to mention the 30000 miles it was on the car all motor.