I've been to the track 3 times this year and as of right now I've ran 13.7 consistantly... Still chipping down the times each event I go to, I'm pretty sure I can get my 13.5-6 that I want this weekend with my current setup. My current setup is a 2000 JDM ITR in a 99 civic coupe Si (AEM 3" CAI, Apexi WS, Exedy clutch/flywheel, hondata) and I've been running M/T 22x8x15's ET Drags at 13psi.. I'm gonna try around 12psi this time around to hopefully shave off a 10th or two so hopefully that'll help.
My question now is, What do I need to do to break into the 12's... 12.999 etc.. I want to stay N/A so nitrous, etc.. isn't a option... Everything on my motor is still factory spec internally and untuned... I know tuning will help out a little but prolly at the most just .1 (tenth of a sec) so I'm now down to 13.4-5. I'm guessing I'll have to do cams and some head work like springs and retainers... though I'm lost on what I would need to shave off that 5 tenths of a sec to hit 12.999. Can someone please underline a list on what I need and what the average cost of the parts would be to acheive my goal... what do I need to spend and on what to break into the 12's? Can I just upgrade cams to like Skunk2 Stage 2's and keep my factory springs and retainers? Obviously I'll have to raise the rpms so the bigger cams can be taken advantage of, though what cams do I need to do... This is a daily driven car most of the time and I'd like to keep it that way.. Thanks for reading

 

What mph have you run? What 60 foot time?

 

Firstly, I would look into an SMSP header. I recommend only SMSP in this case simply because of the crazy *** numbers I've seen them make on ITR motors.

Secondly, I would look into JunIII's or EF-1 M24 cams coupled with EF-1 or Toda valvetrain. While you're doing the cams/valvetrain, thinner headgasket would be beneficial to compliment the cams. And of course, a set of adj. cam sprockets.

After retuning that setup, I would bet 12's on slicks wouldn't be too far out of reach. Of course this is my opinion, so take it for what it's worth. I'm sure others have good advice too.

BTW, as Aussie said, what's your trap speeds?

 

depends on how much money you are willing to spend. Si's have a sunroof, so that is working against you for extra weight however, take every seat out, all the panels you dont need, the spare tire of course, etc.
It all depends on how much money you are really looking to spend.

If you dont know how to do these things yourself, you will pay some decent money to have a knowledgeable engine builder do the task for you.

I would reccomend a few things though:

Higher compression (ctr pistons, wiseco pistons, etc)
Good cams (Toda, Jun, etc)
A valvespring that can handle a decent amount of lift from the cam (Toda i believe is the best)
Larger throttle body (68-70mm)
Type R or Skunk 2 Intake manifold (have it ported if you are willing to spend the money)
A kick *** header (SMSP is running the show these days and his shop is right across the street from us)
Head work is key. (portflow, allaniz, etc)
Most importantly TUNING

If you are interesting in having any of this done by us give us a shout.
540-207-2252

Derek

 

ATS 4.9 Final Drive should help but then ur top speed in every gear would be lower, more annoying when crusin on freeway

 

I guess it would help if I went more into detail on my car... I do have adjustable sprockets though they're set both at zero right now cause like I said before I'm not tuned at all.. I use to own a boosted b20vtec so I still have all the fuel support to accomidate that so fuel I'm not worried about at all.. As far as my times... As of this day I run consistantly 13.7-8 at 98.xx mph with 1.7-1.8 60's on M/T slicks at 13psi shifting at 8500rpms. My Si coupe is totally gutted from the backseats on back (no back side panels, rear deck panel, trunk panels, trunk carpet, spare, jack, rear deck speakers, rear seats, seat belts, etc.. everything that could be removed I did) and I also take out the passenger seat and floor mats at the track.... I have ajustable suspension so I slam the front and raise the back all the way... soft shocks on the front, stiff in the back....high tire pressure in the back wheels, running on aviation fuel... so I beleive I do all the prep work that I can.... car weighs in @ 2375lb usually on race days. I've been told at by several if I raise my slick pressure up to 15-18psi I'll take off 2 tenths on my time, though I haven't tried that yet (tomorrow) though I think if I raise the pressure up to 15-18psi I'll get worse 60' times... I'm going to the track tomorrow so I'll play with 15-18psi a little then I also wanna try 12psi and see how that goes....

As far as my motor internally is... the motor is a '00 JDM ITR like I stated before with stock valvetrain, cams, intake manifold, throttle body, etc... 11.0:1 CR pistons and rods, 4.75 FD LSD, OEM 4-1 header with 2.5" collector, everything is still factory on the motor except I've added my Exedy clutch and flywheel from my previous motor as well as the adjustable cam gears, AEM fuel rail/FPR, AEM 3" CAI, Apexi WS exhaust, carsound testpipe...other than that, the motor is untouched.

I know I could just slap on a 65-75 shot of nitrous and solve my problem about breaking into the 12's though I'd like to do it all motor style. I know I'll have to raise the RPM's a bit so I can take advantage of upgraded cams. also when upgrading cams, I should upgrade valve springs and retainers as well so the OEM springs won't bind up on me. I just don't know what to upgrade with or how much money I'm looking at... I know head work is the key to n/a and I'd like to build the head a little bit without touching the block at all... I've read threads and threads about cams, valvetrain etc...and stage 1 cams would be a waste of money cause the ITR cams are nearly identical... Theres lots of talk about skunk2 s2 cams and valve springs/retainers so Id prolly lean towards them as of right now not really knowing anything... but will skunk2's break me off .5 of a second? Also, am I safe with only changing say skunk2 stage 2 cams and using there Intake and exhaust valvesprings and retainers.... or do I need to upgrade more parts than that... What is this gonna cost, of course cost is a issue with everyone, though I can't really say whats too much without knowing what price I'm looking at.



Modified by erics99si at 8:08 PM 8/21/2003

 

It sounds like you're giving yourself advice and talking to yourself. The questions you asked we already recommended stuff above.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Unsung EM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It sounds like you're giving yourself advice and talking to yourself. The questions you asked we already recommended stuff above.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Noone has answered my questions yet... yes they've suggested get cams, valvetrain, head work, etc... which I already knew i'd need, but my question is.... What are the best cams and valvetrain to go with keeping the daily driven style? Is valvetrain refering to JUST springs and retainers? Whats the average price of these suggested cams, valvetrain? and finally, Do I just upgrade cams and the valvesprings/retainers and I'm good to go (of course tuned) or do I have to upgrade other things....?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by erics99si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Noone has answered my questions yet... yes they've suggested get cams, valvetrain, head work, etc... which I already knew i'd need, but my question is.... What are the best cams and valvetrain to go with keeping the daily driven style? Is valvetrain refering to JUST springs and retainers? Whats the average price of these suggested cams, valvetrain? and finally, Do I just upgrade cams and the valvesprings/retainers and I'm good to go (of course tuned) or do I have to upgrade other things....? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok........................... on that note, I will refer you to my very first post.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MYSELF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Firstly, I would look into an SMSP header. I recommend only SMSP in this case simply because of the crazy *** numbers I've seen them make on ITR motors.

Secondly, I would look into JunIII's or EF-1 M24 cams coupled with EF-1 or Toda valvetrain. While you're doing the cams/valvetrain, thinner headgasket would be beneficial to compliment the cams. And of course, a set of adj. cam sprockets.

After retuning that setup, I would bet 12's on slicks wouldn't be too far out of reach. Of course this is my opinion, so take it for what it's worth. I'm sure others have good advice too.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

bump......you can also use a thinner headgasket for you want to up your compression

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek_jeremy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bump......you can also use a thinner headgasket for you want to up your compression</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just like i said... Are my posts invisible?