ok well i was just thinking about my turbo kit and all and dayumn this is getting expensive.. i was planning on doing it for 4k before but now that has turned to 5k and im afraid it will hit 6k soon.. anyways i will be running 3" exhaust, 3" Down pipe no cats, and 8psi on a revhard stage 2 kit on a 95 integra w/ 17's.. right now i am running 16.0 at 90 degress with 17's full interior and spare tire and all.. 2.4 60ft so i could do 15.9 if i drove better and maybe 15.8..

im actually not that concerened with my time since that will be driver influenced im more concerned with my MPH.. my goal is 104mph which is good for 13's and about 230-240whp...

so i am wondering what u guys think.. will i accomplish my gaol and be a happy turbo driver or will i be pissed and spend more money just to break the 14.0 barrier..

 

i ran mid 14's with full interior, a body kit, and rims on 6lbs of boost on my DRAG3 kit. the only thing i did was put my stock blackies on the front for traction purposes. if you dont got slicks, put black stocks on the front if you got some.. and let out some tire pressure til youre at 20-25 psi. most max tire pressures are at 33. lettin out some tire pressure does work... less wheel hop, more traction, and nice skerrrrrT noises everytime you shift. haha

if you dont do 13's with your setup... i would suggest takin driving lessons. hehe just kidding. dont worry, man... youll do fine.

 

6K for a turbo kit? You better hit 13's for 6 K.

 

no i paid 3k for the kit alone... then there are alot of other things with it like 3" exhaust, clutch, boost control, tial upgrade.. the price gets up there.. im spending like 5k on everything and doing most the installation myself..

 

Awesome....glad to hear that you are doing the install. I do too many swaps that people just drop the car off with me and pick it up.....no Q's...just pay...they really dont care about the swap. They just want to fit in or go fast. They couldnt tell you anything about it...but "Its got Vtec......umm....B16....fast" Let me know if I can help at all. Good luck

Jason

 

Actually If I can run low-mid 13s' on my street tires i'll be happy
hopefully 300_whp will be enough

 

DIREP, i hear ya. i was in the exact same boat as you. paid for flywheel, boost controller, coilovers, shocks, clutch, ignition, etc and just the parts came up to about 2200. then the fabrication of the turbo system was about $4800.

brought it to a local shop, about to dyno tune it, found out that the ******* who fabricated the system, didn't bung an 02 sensor. smart guys. and lazy as well. so, the guys here, don't believe my pump and regulator setup is reliable enough to run on the track. they are hardcore on the scene and their advice is well taken. i know they are of course trying to make a sale but, they are pretty much perfectionists as well when it comes to labor and racing.

so, wasted my money for rc 310cc that i used for only 2 months. dump more money on 550cc, hondata, bunging an 02 sensor, and a headgasket.

so that is about 2200 in parts, 4800 in turbo system with 3.00 exhaust, dummy cat. and another about 1500 on the way for the parts just mentioned above, I FEEL YAH. just venting. and with this, i BETTER pull a fucken low 12 second timeslip w/slicks and mid 13 with street tires. or i'll do the unthinkable [slitting wrists]

 

still have the rc 310cc if so u trying to sale them

 

If I dont hit it either. Hell, I am hittin 14.8 on street tires with just my swap and a GSR trans with the basic I/H/E. I am hoping 13's on my backyard turbo. Lets see so far I spent:
$50 for my Starion I/C
$150 for my T3
$175 for DRAG3 manifold and boost gauge
So I am up to a whopping $375 and I dont plan on going over $1000.
I just need my fuel pump ($107) and a BOV (maybe going cheap for now with a $50 Bosch) My I/C piping I will do myself. And then my downpipe which hopefully wont cost too much. Then I am done. I think I will hit 13's easily!

 

93LSivic: don't forget, you will need more fuel into those cylinders! The cheapo method would be to get a FMU. You can those for cheap on http://www.ebay.com. And also, you will need check valves to trick the ECU. You can get those for $2 a peice from the fish store. All' you'll need are 3.

Or if you got dough, check out http://www.hondata.com

 

Oh yeah, I forgot the FMU. On ebay they are all for mustangs, anyone know what ratio they are? People are saying the best one would be an 8:1, or should I use 12:1? I was thinking about "The missing link" but will probably do the checkvalves.
Hondata would be nice, but not on this car, that is until it turns into a project can and I get my S2000 But I dont see that happening any time soon!