1990 Accord LX, 108,000 miles.

Just had a tune-up. New distributor, cap etc., pcv valve, fuel filter, spark cables, seals at the plugs (oil was seeping in to plugs where cables attached), new plugs, air filter.

Before and after tune up car exhibits the following:
1. First attempt at start fails. Results in flooded engine (?) Continuous cranking no success. Car sits for 10 minutes, some cranking, then it starts. Plenty of juice in the battery.

2. Periodically, after starting, car will idle, fast-normal-fast-normal, continually (1 second intervals). I was told at one point that the "throttle body" needed to be rebuilt. I am not familiar with that component.

Advice please. Thanks.

 

1. Are you positive about the flooding part? It sounds like a main relay problem, and unless I'm stoked out on crack, it's hard to flood a FI car. Does this no start happen every time, or only occasionally? Does it happen more often in the hot weather? If so, I think you're looking at main relay problem instead. Check if the fuel pump is priming when you turn your key to the on position, have a friend listen for it at the gas cap.

If the fuel pump is running, you may have a spark problem. Check for spark when the car refuses to start. Heck, you can pull the plugs too and smell for fuel while you're at it. If there's no fuel smell, it's likely the main relay again.

2. If this is right after the car is started cold, I would look at the fast idle valve first as a possible problem. If it only happens when warmed up, possibly look at the idle air check valve (that's probably the wrong name, but it's definitely the IACV).

The IACV has a little metal screen on it, it seems to get nice and clogged with carbon and crap. I had to clean it out recently, and the problem hasn't come back *knocks on wood*. Mine would drop at idle to some insanely low RPMs (like 200) then bounce back up to 1000 to avoid a stall I suppose, then back down to 200 etc.

The throttle body rebuild is garbage. At the worst, you could take the air intake tube off with the engine off, open the throttle plate yourself with the spring on the throttle body, and use a cloth soaked in carb cleaner or some other injector safe cleaner to wipe away any buildup around the area where the plate closes.

 

Thanks.

1. Flooding was only a guess and since it is FI, point well taken. This symptom occurs when cold or when driving a few miles to get gas (still cold I guess). What is onvolved in replacing the Main Relay, Cost?

2. I saw the archives on vacuum problems, will look further

 

Usually the main relay problem only occurs on starts. It doesn't usually happen when running, but I think I've seen one or two people who had stalls as well. Sometimes the car just stalling out while running, and when starting, is an ignitor problem. So you'll have to check for spark and fuel next time it refuses to start.

The main relay isn't too bad to replace, it's under the dash. The angles are a bit awkward, but it's very doable. You pretty much can only get the relay from a dealer It cost me $80 CDN. If you know someone who's handy with electric soldering, they can fix it however. The joints in the relay tend to crack and get shitty, so the joints just need to be cleaned and then resoldered.

http://autorepair.about.com/li...1.htm

You'd better check for spark and fuel pump operation first before replacing the relay.