h22 in a integra
I actually met a guy on g2ic.com in person that had an h22 in a DA but he said it was a lot of hard work...Im building a bseries motor for my DA; I think it would be a lot easier...just my 2cents.
for all the work and money it takes its not worth it. Unless you have shitloads of time and money kicking around. With that money your spending on the H22 just mod your B18c1. I don't think its worth it at all. Just my opinion though.
i LOVE the H22, but in my honest opinion, you will be 1000 times happier with a turbo kit for the B18. H22= about 200 hp Boosted B18, could be anywhere from 240 and up, with 8 psi. more bang for the buck (unless you get a motor trade from someone)
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Springfield, Virginia, United States Of America
well the gsr i want to buy has 95k miles on it and a friend of mine said he would buy the motor off my for 2,000 and i have 2,000 in the bank and i think i can find a motor for about 2500 with transmission
Trending Topics
If you just want to drag race then go with the H22A but if you want to autocross dont. It throws your weight balance way off because of how much bigger and heavier the H22A is. A while ago I looked at doing this swap but then relized that while the swap is $2500 you need $400-500 engine mount kit, $1000 install price from most shops, and to make your handling right Higher rate springs in the front $100-300, a rear battery relocation $125-200 and a carbon fiber hood $400-600. So if you just drag and dont care about handling then the full cost is $4000. If you care about handling, which you should, then the price is close to or over $5000. For $5000 you could turbo you GSR and buy hondata to run it all. Run a perfectly safe 6psi and run 240Hp all day plus have room to build. H22A means no power steering or A/C without a more expensive mount kit. If you got lots of money and want to be different then go with the H22A otherwise just go turbo you willl be faster with less money!
???... Ive heard the h22 is only about 80 lbs heavier then b series engines (just about how much turbo weights) And thats with the power steering and A/C . and battery under the hood to if im not mistaken
There is a forum here (you will have to do a search)
this guy actually weight a B series and H series
W/o power steering and A/C its only about 40lb difference
There is a forum here (you will have to do a search)
this guy actually weight a B series and H series
W/o power steering and A/C its only about 40lb difference
ya, im gonna disagree with you on the weight there. i know a few people that auto-x with it and run damn good times. the motor compared to a b series aint much different. u can keep ur ac power steering and battery up front. the mounts are expensive and the wiring is a bitch but its well worth it. and if u drop a h22 in ur da or dc and race a turbo ls or gsr its gonna be a close race depending on the driver and how well the turbo is tuned. besides u forgot to throw in the cost of tuning for the turbo so u dont blow ur motor. im sorry but eraserhead do ur research before u say anything.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by patdemps »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for all the work and money it takes its not worth it. Unless you have shitloads of time and money kicking around. With that money your spending on the H22 just mod your B18c1. I don't think its worth it at all. Just my opinion though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Maybe if you asked this about 1.5 years ago, when it was first starting to get popular, then that would be a response that people would say. But now the H22 swap is pretty common and done regularly. With all of the info out there on how to do the swap, it's actually not that difficult if you have some mechanical skills.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eraserhead »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you just want to drag race then go with the H22A but if you want to autocross dont. It throws your weight balance way off because of how much bigger and heavier the H22A is. A while ago I looked at doing this swap but then relized that while the swap is $2500 you need $400-500 engine mount kit, $1000 install price from most shops, and to make your handling right Higher rate springs in the front $100-300, a rear battery relocation $125-200 and a carbon fiber hood $400-600. So if you just drag and dont care about handling then the full cost is $4000. If you care about handling, which you should, then the price is close to or over $5000. For $5000 you could turbo you GSR and buy hondata to run it all. Run a perfectly safe 6psi and run 240Hp all day plus have room to build. H22A means no power steering or A/C without a more expensive mount kit. If you got lots of money and want to be different then go with the H22A otherwise just go turbo you willl be faster with less money!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good lord... what did you hear/read that one? Here's my post I made almost 2 years ago when H22A swaps were just starting to get attention by others: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=183552 Keep in mind, that was almost 2 years ago, and we've taken a H22A Civic and Integra out on the road course numerous times since then, and there's lots of potential that you can get out of it. Sure there are some changes in suspension setups that you may want to make, but overall it's still a kickass setup out on the track, and this is all from 1st hand experience behind the wheel. Still a decent 1/4 mile drag setup but traction and launching is what kills most people's times.
Some of the replies are just
Maybe if you asked this about 1.5 years ago, when it was first starting to get popular, then that would be a response that people would say. But now the H22 swap is pretty common and done regularly. With all of the info out there on how to do the swap, it's actually not that difficult if you have some mechanical skills.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eraserhead »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you just want to drag race then go with the H22A but if you want to autocross dont. It throws your weight balance way off because of how much bigger and heavier the H22A is. A while ago I looked at doing this swap but then relized that while the swap is $2500 you need $400-500 engine mount kit, $1000 install price from most shops, and to make your handling right Higher rate springs in the front $100-300, a rear battery relocation $125-200 and a carbon fiber hood $400-600. So if you just drag and dont care about handling then the full cost is $4000. If you care about handling, which you should, then the price is close to or over $5000. For $5000 you could turbo you GSR and buy hondata to run it all. Run a perfectly safe 6psi and run 240Hp all day plus have room to build. H22A means no power steering or A/C without a more expensive mount kit. If you got lots of money and want to be different then go with the H22A otherwise just go turbo you willl be faster with less money!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good lord... what did you hear/read that one? Here's my post I made almost 2 years ago when H22A swaps were just starting to get attention by others: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=183552 Keep in mind, that was almost 2 years ago, and we've taken a H22A Civic and Integra out on the road course numerous times since then, and there's lots of potential that you can get out of it. Sure there are some changes in suspension setups that you may want to make, but overall it's still a kickass setup out on the track, and this is all from 1st hand experience behind the wheel. Still a decent 1/4 mile drag setup but traction and launching is what kills most people's times.
Some of the replies are just
If you can find a reputable shop to do the install I say go for it. The torque on a H22A blows away a B series motor. However if you don't trust your local shop to do it, I'd steer clear.
Its really not that hard of a swap to do and is actually quite common now. There is less than an 80lb difference in weight, and by removing the AC/PS you will make up a lot of the difference. If you would like to keep those (which you can), then just buy a little heavier rated springs for the front. For those that have never done and know nothing about H22A swaps, keep your ignorant comments and misconceptions to yourself.
The reliability factor with B series almost 100k miles turbo'd is a lot riskier than swapping in a H22A.
Its really not that hard of a swap to do and is actually quite common now. There is less than an 80lb difference in weight, and by removing the AC/PS you will make up a lot of the difference. If you would like to keep those (which you can), then just buy a little heavier rated springs for the front. For those that have never done and know nothing about H22A swaps, keep your ignorant comments and misconceptions to yourself.
The reliability factor with B series almost 100k miles turbo'd is a lot riskier than swapping in a H22A.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GZR4DR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you can find a reputable shop to do the install I say go for it. The torque on a H22A blows away a B series motor. However if you don't trust your local shop to do it, I'd steer clear.
Its really not that hard of a swap to do and is actually quite common now. There is less than an 80lb difference in weight, and by removing the AC/PS you will make up a lot of the difference. If you would like to keep those (which you can), then just buy a little heavier rated springs for the front. For those that have never done and know nothing about H22A swaps, keep your ignorant comments and misconceptions to yourself.
The reliability factor with B series almost 100k miles turbo'd is a lot riskier than swapping in a H22A.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Very good advice my friend
Its really not that hard of a swap to do and is actually quite common now. There is less than an 80lb difference in weight, and by removing the AC/PS you will make up a lot of the difference. If you would like to keep those (which you can), then just buy a little heavier rated springs for the front. For those that have never done and know nothing about H22A swaps, keep your ignorant comments and misconceptions to yourself.
The reliability factor with B series almost 100k miles turbo'd is a lot riskier than swapping in a H22A.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Very good advice my friend
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 6,662
Likes: 0
From: Derek Jeter drinks wine coolers,, The Nation, USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by p1ccoloz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">swap it and then boost the h22! now that my friend would be one crazy beast!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Theres a guy on G2ic who has one, bad *** car.
Theres a guy on G2ic who has one, bad *** car.
Worth it. If you're debating between a b-series and the h22 and you have the funds and a mechanic to do it then go with the H22 for sure. You will save money over a b18c and have torque and an extra 25 hp.
there was a local guy (also on this board i believe he went by "interlude") w/a ssbp gsr and an H22 swap. with i/h/e that thing would pull upper 14s w/traction issues... and you've also heard above theyre track proven..
i say go for it
i say go for it
This weight to power ratio is retarded. My buddies integra b4 h22a w/ a strong b18c1 modded went 15.4. The h22a went 14.6. Now he's building it to have 550+ hp. It will be quite amazing.
http://www.boostworthy.com/nocomment
http://www.boostworthy.com/nocomment
A H22 comes with a cable tranny, as compared with a DC2 with a hydrolic tranny. If you were to do a changeover, you must do a lot of retrofitting for the linkage. This does not include the correct Axles needed. But if you go to a reputable shop, there should no problem. Good Luck!


