Well I retuned today, I ran into some issues on the dyno last November (not reliability problems though, it's a long story) and only ended up with 141whp and 123wtq. Well I finally got a chance to retune. I missed 150whp by just a bit, but it was an 80-degree day.... Sorry that the pic sucks if I have time I'll try to create a sharper one. Red is before and blue is after tuning:



Mods: Crower 62403 cams, Skunk2 cam gears, 3" AEM CAI for Type R, DC 4-2-1 SS, Carsound 2.25" cat, A'pexi WS, B&M FPR, A'pexi S-AFC, Hondata IM heat shield gasket, dyno tuned. Exedy organic race clutch, ACT Prolite 8.8lb flywheel.

I was a little disappointed to get only 2whp and actually lose a little peak torque (I had tuned a few months ago, after all), but if you look at the powerband it's much better, I'm quite happy. I gained a good 5-8wtq from 2100-3800rpm, which is a big help in autocross/daily driving and could definitely be felt when I took it for a spin. Plus by using 7-8% less fuel in cruising ranges while making a bit more power, my gas mileage will go way up.

Misc. notes: I was a little disappointed that my setting of +2, -2 on the cam gears turned out to be the best setting that we tried. I actually got an extra 1-2whp/wtq with +2, -3, but the power gain was only at the peaks and the rest of the band had less power. Cam gears often shift the powerband up or down, but for me they just made more and less power across the board, just like they did the last time I tuned. I also noticed my car made a little less power as we did more runs and the car got hotter. One thing that surprised me was that my first run I made 4.7whp and 3.8wtq more than last time I tuned, on a much hotter day (80 vs. 50 degrees). The only real changes made between those sessions were a 3" ITR AEM CAI instead of a 2.75" GS-R AEM CAI (the guy sent me the wrong one, it fit badly), and a $70 Hondata insulating IM gasket. Apparently something's working. Above 6300rpm I made a lot more power than before.

People might say "you only have like 8whp more than a stock GS-R," but think of this: a stock GS-R makes about 108wtq at over 5000rpm.... I make that much torque at 2200rpm. The torque curve is pretty flat, with the exception of the "AEM hump", and the horsepower doesn't peak so much as "plateau" from 6500-6900rpm. I beat i/h/c/e GS-Rs all day long until they hit their damn 3rd gear that's all short 'n stuff.... this is a good example of how peak whp doesn't mean everything and your powerband does.

So yeah, I'm pretty happy. Off to the dragstrip on Friday. Hopefully I'll pass emissions tomorrow. Any questions let me know of course.

 

so wat times are you looking to pull and if you would swap out the pistons for some pr3s or some p30s man it would make a big difference..

 

i cant wait to run my set up.. its pretty similar to yours except Crower 405a's and headwork!

 

My old LS setup made 158whp untuned, check out my new setup. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=595909

 

Hoping for high-14's, should be able to hit that but I dunno, I'm a semi-sucky drag driver.

Pistons would be super-nice, but expensive, especially when you have really good compression on a block with 52k on it. If I did crack open the block I'd go B20 anyway.

Crower 405s?!?! That's freakin' NUTS.

158whp untuned is damn impressive, what did you have on it? Your current setup sounds so impossibly delicious.

 

sup, remember me on Superhonda my user name is allmotor_integ
u gave alot of advice about the Crower cams then did an LS/VTEC then i wrecked my car and now i got a GSR, how has it been? you made hella torque on the dyno nice nice u make all that torque at like 2200 damn i make all my power at 5500 i hate waitin on vtec range i made 193.3whp and 130lbs of torque if i could recall correctly.

 

Hey bud, nice numbers on your car, damn! Yeah unfortunately you can't make a crapload of power everywhere.... if I were a drag type o' guy I wouldn't have done all-motor LS..... it's just nice for daily driving and autocrossing, doesn't have the insane banshee scream of a VTEC but it does have a nice fat powerband. All depends on what you want!

 

just slap a vtec head on it already...

 

vtec does scream it roars i scare ppl when i drive by its funny but its not all that great i drive with my friend in his LS integra with a b20 and a ported head and most of your mods except he got a short ram aem intake, i love the torque it pulls hard, oh well unfortunately i don't have all that torque AutoX must be nice in your car with the suspension sway bars i still haven't came around to buying that yet...still caught up in my power hungry

 

Hehe the swaybars are #1 on my favorite mod list. The cams are right up there but have given me a couple too many headaches in the process for me to love them that much. Get the bars, they're such a deal, $246 shipped F+R! Install sucks though.

 

after i get my Type R tranny i will get those sway bars for sure i got a jdm itr rear sway bar which i shud of never brought my friend told me not to install it you shouldn't have the rear bigger than your front sway bar i believe stock LS is 22mm front and rear is like 12mm or 13mm or something puttin a 23mm rear is i think to big after i sell this i will get the suspension techniques front and rear with all the bushing and hardware for sure. I want LSD for cornering and to gain better 60ft time in the quarter. Good luck on hitting high 14s in the quarter make sure to post your 60ft times i will be intersted in that my best is 2.330 when i ran 14.2@99 at Sacramento Raceway my friend in an stock LS/VTEC set-up with exhaust got a 2.300 i/e and type R cams

 

I got a 2.351 60' once, that was when I had basically stock power. I could only manage 2.5s with my 16"s even with over 140whp.

This time I'll be armed with a used set of 205/55/14 Nitto 555Rs, on 5.5" stock rims they look evil. Yeah the LS front bar is 22mm so a 23mm rear would be nuts. Mine is 25.4/19 and it's still simple to get the rear out of line with throttle lift.

 

ya, 405's are a bit big.. but ill have an Apexi AFC to control to get an idle and what not.

 

If I were you I wouldn't get the S-AFC. Since it's only "tricking" the ECU, I've heard that past 14% correction or so the ECU detects boost and doesn't like it. 14% was barely enough for me with my 403s. You have OBDI anyway, so I would highly suggest Hondata, it is definitely a far superior route. My S-AFC is alright but I wouldn't have it if I were OBDI!

 

Well im obd0.. I should be alright.. a guy on here runs the biggest Crane Cam's (which are bigger than the 405a's) and he gets the bitch to idle with the AFC.. and runs a 12.9 in a CRX..

 

Thats pretty good but not good enough. MY IT spec engine made 143 WHP with the stock blue printed and balanced engine with matchported head and .020" shaved head. 4.78:1 final gear and lots of torgue. AND its an LS. The way my engine is built will all new stock cams/valves/valve springs/ New dealer pistons/ new bearings. All this parts from the dealer blueprinted block and head. Out accelerates Vtec cars out of the corner with similar IT mods. Also got a Ericks racing computer 4-2-1 headers and 2.5" exhaust.

 

ive never understood the concept of allmotor LS...to me it seems kind of a paradox.

Unless for money issues or if you have it paird with a vtec head, it just does not seem like it would ever create enough power to compete with a stock type r engine

 

Did you not read my post at all? About having low and midrange for autocross, not everything being about peak numbers, and not everyone being out there for drag??!! For autocross this setup is SUPERIOR to a stock or even bolt-on Type R motor. I admit that's a small criteria where the LS has an advantage, but that's what I do, and that's what it excels at. Not to mention that if one were to do a swap, an LS motor plus this amount of engine work totals about $3k, about the same as a GS-R motor and much less than a stock ITR motor. Of course it has less potential for high hp, but if you want a nice full powerband for cheap, here you go.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White98LS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> 14% was barely enough for me with my 403s. </TD></TR></TABLE>

first off......nice numbers......graph is looking pretty good although i would have expected to seen slight better numbers. my B18B made slightly more power with the same cam . all other mods pretty much eaqual.....

just a question about your s-afc settings.........you said 14% was not enough.......you had to ADD more than 14% of fuel for your setup? at what RPMS's did it need that much more fuel?

 

but wouldnt cams put you in a harder class in autoX? i know you'd be out of sts....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by p1ccoloz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but wouldnt cams put you in a harder class in autoX? i know you'd be out of sts....</TD></TR></TABLE>

try SM, and he'd suckass in it too with an integra

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lustedp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

try SM, and he'd suckass in it too with an integra</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hey thanks.... Why are you such an *******? Seriously.... what is your problem?

Yes it will put me in a high class once I'm out of Novice, but I don't really care - I do it for fun and to compare to everybody, not just people in my class. Anyway I autocross in a sports car club, there are only about 50-60 cars in 8-9 classes, there could be anywhere from 0-6 people in my class. Right now though I'm consistently getting 3rd place or so out of 22 in novice against WRXs, STis, Miatas, RX-7s....

Yeah it was a pretty hot day and my car was making less power as the day wore on.... On a cooler day with a fresh run I could hit 150whp no problem I'm sure. On the S-AFC I leaned out everywhere except 7000rpm, which was only +2%. So it wouldn't be too much to worry about though. I just wonder about the effectiveness when you're leaning out more than like 20%.... it would be an interesting thing to find out for sure. From 1500-4500rpm there was no correction needed, the S-AFC is at 0% with 46psi of fuel pressure - yes they take a lot of fuel in the midrange. 5k-6500rpm were leaned out quite a bit, ranging from -6% to -16%.