Cheap Horsepower
Not sure if this is common knowledge on here but my buddy just came back from Wyotech and he told me how to make some extra horse for cheap. We tested this on his 99 Pontiac Grand Am GT. We took it to the dyno and ran a baseline test for what he had on it(borla exhaust FPR Intake Headers RC injectors UR pulleys port polished heads and IM) and he put down 240HP and 251ft tq at the wheels at 5800 RPMS. now this is what we did to his car.
What you need.
Nice sized Coffee can
stainless braided Fuel line that is an extra 2 feet
and mounting hardware.
dry ice
First mount the coffee can on the firewall or a safe place in the engine.
Connect the fuel line to the fuel filter.
then take the rest of the fuel line and coil it around the coffee can.
then run it to fuel rails.
place the lid on the coffee can.
trim edges around lid to make the best fit possible.
Right before you are ready to make ur 1/4 run or dyno place a 4x5 piece of dry ice inside the coffee can. let it sit for a minute. then do your run.
By doing this our best run was 252 HP and 265 Ft trq at 5800 RPMS.
ill try to have the dyno sheets up with in the next couple of days
What you need.
Nice sized Coffee can
stainless braided Fuel line that is an extra 2 feet
and mounting hardware.
dry ice
First mount the coffee can on the firewall or a safe place in the engine.
Connect the fuel line to the fuel filter.
then take the rest of the fuel line and coil it around the coffee can.
then run it to fuel rails.
place the lid on the coffee can.
trim edges around lid to make the best fit possible.
Right before you are ready to make ur 1/4 run or dyno place a 4x5 piece of dry ice inside the coffee can. let it sit for a minute. then do your run.
By doing this our best run was 252 HP and 265 Ft trq at 5800 RPMS.
ill try to have the dyno sheets up with in the next couple of days
holy ****!! I was right when I told my friends that I felt more power everytime I leave the gas pump. Since the fuel is colder when it comes out of the ground than when it sits in my tank for a while.
I always had a theory but never had any facts to back it up. This post has renewed my confidence in myself.
I always had a theory but never had any facts to back it up. This post has renewed my confidence in myself.
this is old school tech the carb guys run them, they are cool cans and summit and jegs sell them. i've never seen one on an injected car yet but i would think it would help. here's a link to one http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/nc...r=361
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GapxGuy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So just refill with dried ice? Where can you get dried ice?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You just make it yourself. Get a block of ice, then put it in the drier and dry it off. Then take it and put it in the can.
-Ace
So just refill with dried ice? Where can you get dried ice?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You just make it yourself. Get a block of ice, then put it in the drier and dry it off. Then take it and put it in the can.-Ace
Seriously though, you can get it at a place like Polarbear Ice. Somewhere they sell blocks of ice. http://www.dryiceinfo.com/where.htm
-Ace
-Ace
hmm, i wonder if it would be worth it to cool the intake air more than fuel...i thought about doing an a/c route around the intake to cool the air but decided it wasn't worth the money i'd have to put into it
its basically the same priciple as putting bags of ice on your intake mani in between pulls or runs at the track. anything to lower the temp of the fuel or air in the combustion chamber is gonna make more power.
any 1 watck spike tv, they had some chemical that would ressist heat really good. they put a rag on fire and sprayed it on it and it went out instantly then couldnt light it on fire again. ontop of that they sprayed the rag tried to light it on fire with a torch the grabbed it and there was no heat at all. i wounder if you sorayed your IM with that maybe you would see some gain. just my 0.02 cents
Ok here is my idea im going to try it 2moroe tell me what you think since i have taken off my airbox on my dc5 and just have a performance filter on there i still have the bottom of the old airbox on there. So my plan after reading this is go buy some dry ice stick it in the bottom of the old airbox and it would just suck up all that nice cold air. Do you think this will work?
I could understand the ice on the IM but running fuel through dry ice to cool it down? I agree it's interesting on a fuel injected car since proper atomization may be needed. Colder fuel would mean more condensed yes, which may lead to less atomization as it swirls and mixes with the air. Maybe I'm slow, yeah cooling would do good with intake temps so maybe this just takes it from a different angle. Interesting....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dacaveman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok here is my idea im going to try it 2moroe tell me what you think since i have taken off my airbox on my dc5 and just have a performance filter on there i still have the bottom of the old airbox on there. So my plan after reading this is go buy some dry ice stick it in the bottom of the old airbox and it would just suck up all that nice cold air. Do you think this will work?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no i bet you'll flood your engine with c02 vapors and it won't start
no i bet you'll flood your engine with c02 vapors and it won't start
Hmm, here's an idea:
Make a heat-exchanger can like that, with 2 sets of cooling coils. One coil is for the fuel to pass through.
The second coil is a coiling coil driven by your air-conditioning system.
Hmm, fill the 'can' with something like water, or better, the stuff from 'cool paks' for the freezer, or something with a freezing point much lower than water. Maybe use antifreeze.
OK, so, you go to the track, and while waiting to run, you run the a/c to cool down the can. The liquid will stay cold for a little while, enough to give you a boost during your run. Just gotta remember to turn off the a/c first. If you were good with copper tubing, you could run a cooling line around your intake, too.
Of course, its also added weight to the car, and a little drag from spinning the belt, even if the A/C pulley clutch isn't engaged.
Worth it? Nah....but its something for me to type while I wait for my Tater-Tots to finish cooking in the toaster oven...
mmm...tater tots..
I should have been an automotive engineer....
Oh wait.. I *AM* an automotive engineer..
Make a heat-exchanger can like that, with 2 sets of cooling coils. One coil is for the fuel to pass through.
The second coil is a coiling coil driven by your air-conditioning system.
Hmm, fill the 'can' with something like water, or better, the stuff from 'cool paks' for the freezer, or something with a freezing point much lower than water. Maybe use antifreeze.
OK, so, you go to the track, and while waiting to run, you run the a/c to cool down the can. The liquid will stay cold for a little while, enough to give you a boost during your run. Just gotta remember to turn off the a/c first. If you were good with copper tubing, you could run a cooling line around your intake, too.
Of course, its also added weight to the car, and a little drag from spinning the belt, even if the A/C pulley clutch isn't engaged.
Worth it? Nah....but its something for me to type while I wait for my Tater-Tots to finish cooking in the toaster oven...
mmm...tater tots..
I should have been an automotive engineer....
Oh wait.. I *AM* an automotive engineer..


