BAM the car loses power and dies. Now the engine needs a tune up really bad but I dont think that is the problem. Car was running good considering it needs pugs and wires REALLY bad, and VTEC was pulling strong, no check engine light, no codes.

The timing belt was changed along with the water pump and a 8.8 lb flywheel.

I was going 65 in fifth gear and it stalled all of the sudden. I pull over and pop the hood and there is some smoke coming from under the hood, not much smoke though. When I try to start it, the motor cranks for a sec then a pop, pop, pop sound coming from the exhaust.

Any insight to what's wrong? I am going to change the plugs and wires now and see if that does anything.

The difference in power my car has or did last night, at least when the b16a was alive, compared to the stock motor is night and day. The car is a 91 STD civic so needless to say it's a world of difference going from 70 HP to 160. And I cant wait to drive it again.

Sorry for the long post

 

change the plugs and wires and see what happens

 

rotor screw inside the distributor

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by madeiniraq &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">rotor screw inside the distributor </TD></TR></TABLE>
i second that
check that
happened about 3 weeks ago to me.....
and does the pop pop every now and then...

 

happened to me also, screwed ended up attaching it self to the magnatized gear inside the distributor and eating all the teeth off it, 200$ later back in buisness.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowpokesi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">happened to me also, screwed ended up attaching it self to the magnatized gear inside the distributor and eating all the teeth off it, 200$ later back in buisness.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exact same thing happened to me.. but you got ripped off! I only paid $193.XX after tax!

 

Remember to put a little locktight on the thread of the screw when you put it back in... Honda dizzys are notorious for doing this. The first time this happened to me, I thought I snapped a timing belt, and bent all of my valves.

 

I need a rotor screw inside the distributor?

Is this a generic part?

Does is matter what distributor it comes from?

Is this difficult to change?

Do I need a new distributor?

I didnt do the swap, so I really don't know how to fix it, I just know how to drive it

Thanks for the help

 

It's a tiny screw that holds the rotor on, take of the distributor cap, then your gonna need to take of this plastic shield type thing. Then you will see it. Sometimes you can't see the screw, depending on how the engine stopped. You might need to crank it over by hand until you see it.

 

We did the swap.....you chose to leave the 10 yr. old plugs/wires/cap rotor on there. I said change them before hand. Guaranteed change those things, the rotor probably broke or the metal thing on the cap. Anyways no codes at all yO! My boy can wire. Besides that problem which is no one's fault but your own, you must admit it was a job well done.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ef ***** &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We did the swap.....you chose to leave the 10 yr. old plugs/wires/cap rotor on there. I said change them before hand. Guaranteed change those things, the rotor probably broke or the metal thing on the cap. Anyways no codes at all yO! My boy can wire. Besides that problem which is no one's fault but your own, you must admit it was a job well done.</TD></TR></TABLE>


No doubt the swap was legit!

I took a chance with the old plugs/wires/cap/rotor and it didn't work out.

Problem is being resolved ASAP by Ef *****'s friend, he's the man.

 

out of curiosity, what cap and rotors are u guys using? I'm asking because a friend of mine swapped in a first gen B16a (OBD-0) into his EF and nneds a new cap and rotor. We assumed the cap and rotor for a a B16a2 would fit but it didn't. Any suggestions?

 

You need to use the one from a 90 integra.

 

The problem was the distributor, the rotor was shot, the bearings were shot and the coil pickup was shot too.

I didn't realize how important the cap and rotor was.

If anyone can tell me what distributor I need I would appreciate it.

 

A distributer cap and rotor off a B18a?? I'd figure the cap and rotor off a 92-93 B17 would be more likely to fit? i could be wrong though

 

you can use an ls distributor if you cut off one the legs. otherwise, try hmotorsonline for a b16a dizzy

 

Best bet is to ask Steve at HMO to replace it.......if not he sells them for 150.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiRWanabe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The problem was the distributor, the rotor was shot, the bearings were shot and the coil pickup was shot too. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Make sure your cam alignment is right after you get everything all fixed. Sometimes when the bearing starts to go the cam gears might jump a tooth because of the extra drag.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by madeiniraq &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">rotor screw inside the distributor </TD></TR></TABLE>

definately...

happened to me like 3 times. scared the **** out of me, one time at night it did that and i saw big chunks of molten glowing **** coming from behind the car. ended up my random tech cat blew to pieces.......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiRWanabe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...considering it needs pugs and wires REALLY bad...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey, Ive got two pugs for ya. A 3-yr-old male and a 5-yr-old female. Both fawn in color. I don't see how they're going to help your car though.... they're pretty useless dogs...

Seriously though. For a cheaper solution to your dizzy problem, get a used 90-91 LS dizzy, and then take all the good guts out of it (including the rotating shaft and bearing) and put it in your B16 housing. It will all fit, trust me, and it saves having to pay inflated JDM prices.

 

I got my B16A1 dizzy for sale $150 shipped or if in L.A. area. can come pick it up. Works perfect.... was running my B16 in my EF now is running my 2000 GSR. Let me know

erbinone@comcast.net

 

When I got a new cap and rotor I noticed the new screw had some kind of putty like substance on the end of it, no doubt to lock the screw in there better. But I also added some threadlocker to the end for added protection.

 

get a new cap and rotor, if you didnt change it i'm willing to bet my *** on it that it was shot.......

 

why is it that when people swap the motor they dont just save up the extra 400 dollars and finish the swap properly i mean wires. plugs, water pump,new bearings,oil pan gasket,valve cover gasket, head gasket, adjust timing all the easy stuff while you motor is out of the engine,, big ups to ef for telling the guy to do the stuff first. you dont seem like the kind of fella that works on cars. so let the people that do help you help yourself. he said change all the stuff first. use this a learning tool listen and then you will have more time to just drive as you said...!!!!!! IMO

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1990civicsiguye &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why is it that when people swap the motor they dont just save up the extra 400 dollars and finish the swap properly i mean wires. plugs, water pump,new bearings,oil pan gasket,valve cover gasket, head gasket, adjust timing all the easy stuff while you motor is out of the engine,, big ups to ef for telling the guy to do the stuff first. you dont seem like the kind of fella that works on cars. so let the people that do help you help yourself. he said change all the stuff first. use this a learning tool listen and then you will have more time to just drive as you said...!!!!!! IMO</TD></TR></TABLE>
I like your idea. I sadly had a shop do my swap, and the guy did it perfect, but without me being there I do not know what all was changed out. To be safe though I've been replacing alot of maint. stuff, just to be on the safe side.
When I get another car I hope to rebuild the b16 from top to bottom, but make some more displacement...and forced induction.