can over tightning the rod bolts affect car from starting. cause when i built it it was really tight..(d16a6 with d16a1 pistons) now i have it in the car and its sluggish to turn over and it wont start. i have recently heard that after u tighten them u back off about 5lbs each bolt and u should be fine. u think this would solve my prob? and everything on the motor is hooked up just like it should. just want my car to start. ne help would be greatly appreciated

 

tight?what do you mean? tighter than specs?

 

prolly a lil bit

 

That wont affect it starting.

 

Jeesus - if your rod bolts aren't even torqued to spec, what makes you think that the rest of the motor is even together right??

ceas..

 

ceas...if ur just gonna flame...then **** u. all im asking if peoples advise whether or not this would affect my car starting.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by idontcare &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ceas...if ur just gonna flame...then **** u. all im asking if peoples advise whether or not this would affect my car starting.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no he is right dude
you rebuilt a motor without using the correct specs? i would be surprised if it ran at all

and no it wont affect starting but it will affect the motor running for more than 10 minuets.

use a service manual
http://www.helminc.com

 

I know a guy who rebuilt his datsun 540 motor and did exactly what u did &gt; overtighten the rod bolts. It did prevent his car from starting, in fact i remember him sayin it wouldnt even turn over. As for how tight he went on those bolts, i don't know. What was ur reason for overtightening them, did u not have a torque wrench?

 

This is really important,

pull the motor out of the car, and tear it all down all over again, this time use a tq wrench.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by idontcare &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ceas...if ur just gonna flame...then **** u. all im asking if peoples advise whether or not this would affect my car starting.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It wasnt a flame, I am serious.

ceas..

 

i am with the above, pull it and start over, specs are given for a reason.

if it turns over i font think its yoru problem

 

This is what you can do to check whether the engine is seized or not. Put a wrench on the crank pulley and turn it over by hand. If it doesn't turn freely by hand, then you know that it's your rod bearings, or even main bearings.

 

i put it in the car...starter pulls it over just slow...and i can put a small rachet on the crank pulley and turn it by hand..but still tight.

 

Get a couple of hands and try pushing the car to see if it starts!

 

You stated that you put a1 pistons in the a6, thus raising your compression ratio to 11:1+-, was your starter in good shape b4, and you battery fully charged, if you are within 3-4 ft lbs with a torque wrench you should be fine, because the wrench is not 100% accurate, very close but not perfect. Id check starter and battery to see if those are fine, and try cranking it w.o plugs in.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Josh717 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You stated that you put a1 pistons in the a6, thus raising your compression ratio to 11:1+-, was your starter in good shape b4, and you battery fully charged, if you are within 3-4 ft lbs with a torque wrench you should be fine, because the wrench is not 100% accurate, very close but not perfect. Id check starter and battery to see if those are fine, and try cranking it w.o plugs in.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good call. The higher compression does make the motor harder to turn over whether it be by hand or using the starter.

 

if you honed the cyl.s and replaced the rings and bearings and the high comp, the motor will and should be a little tight but it should start. it will loosen up after it breaks in a little. as for really tight rod bolts i don't know what you were thinkin when you didn't torque them to spec, if there that tight the rod bolts are probably ready the snap off. i had a bunk torque wrench and snapped a rod bolt on my 13 second vw gti because i torqued it to like 60 ft. lbs. next time you put together a motor make sure you have the specs and a good recently calibrated torque wrench.

 

uhh, did you check the battery?

 

yes. checked battery and starter was in perfect shape before hand. i have a new set of rod bolts alreaday. im taking it out today and starting over with my new shiny tq wrench

 

ok today i took off the head..and i spun the crank with my small rachet..and it was not tight. it was no where near as tight as it was with the head on there. and i tried to spin the cam over with a 12mm socket..and it was stiffer than a *****. so i have another head here laying around and its no where near that tight..ill see what happens.

 

well after putting on the other head. it started right up . i dunno what's wrong with that head. but oh well. my car is running. ill drive it for about 3days under 3-4k...then push on it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88rexdxa6ed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you honed the cyl.s and replaced the rings and bearings and the high comp, the motor will and should be a little tight but it should start. it will loosen up after it breaks in a little. as for really tight rod bolts i don't know what you were thinkin when you didn't torque them to spec, if there that tight the rod bolts are probably ready the snap off. i had a bunk torque wrench and snapped a rod bolt on my 13 second vw gti because i torqued it to like 60 ft. lbs. next time you put together a motor make sure you have the specs and a good recently calibrated torque wrench.</TD></TR></TABLE>
that was my problem i did your same build up, i used a 50 yr old tq wrench, the ****** ran for 2 days then i spun at least 1 main bearing and then it over heated and the rest spun with it and the head gasket blew. Its worth your time to take it out and re do it, it won't cost a thing other than a tq wrench, the rings won't seat until the engine is under load so even if it were running idling the rings didn't seat. So take it out and do it over like a champ.

edit: stock honda bolts are like 40 ft/lbs. depending on your rachet its hella easy to go well over 40 ft lbs. tough with a 3/8" but 1/2" i could see it happening. Buy some arp rod bolts if your rod bolts are shot, they cost the same and hold something like 500 hp