i have a b16a crx with the mods in my profile and i have a 2.5" cat back exhaust with a hayame muffler and i dont like it, what is a good cat back or rear section exhaust for running all motor?

 

just about any straight back design muffler and mandarel bent piping

 

how about a greddy sp or tenzo R or dc sports?

 

I have always been under the impression that the better flowing exh. you will make more peak HP then a more restrictive exh. So my vote goes for an open header

Blaze

 

Just run a blank straight off the header. You can buy a 2.5 for like $40 from summit.It works great if your not worried about the noise. Because it is very loud.

 

I personally like skunk 2 but I am not sure if they make it for your car....

 

I say a mandrel bent 2.5" pipe into an N1 muffler. U can run w/ the baffle in the N1 to keep the noise down till U go to the track & then... VAAAARRROOOOOOOOOM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HYREV2NR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I say a mandrel bent 2.5" pipe into an N1 muffler. U can run w/ the baffle in the N1 to keep the noise down till U go to the track & then... VAAAARRROOOOOOOOOM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

mandrel bending is so expensive hehe...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chris@allmotor.net &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

mandrel bending is so expensive hehe...</TD></TR></TABLE>

so is fixing up cars, so whats new

 

ive gone through a lot of exhauts. I presonally liked the 2.5 Apex N1 and 2.5 spoon N1
i had both and i liked the flow a lot. not restrictive compared to others

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FusionEg6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive gone through a lot of exhauts. I presonally liked the 2.5 Apex N1 and 2.5 spoon N1
i had both and i liked the flow a lot. not restrictive compared to others</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you use custom mandrel bent 2.5" piping and APEXi N1 and Spoon N1 mufflers?
Spoon and APEXi piping are 60 mm (2.36")

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00MRSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Did you use custom mandrel bent 2.5" piping and APEXi N1 and Spoon N1 mufflers?
Spoon and APEXi piping are 60 mm (2.36") </TD></TR></TABLE>

Guess what.. so are the 2.5 muffler shop specials..

2.5" OD... 14 guage SS piping

2.5" - .64" = 2.36"

pretty cool huh.. you always thought you were getting 2.5.

no one ever cared to measure..



Modified by 00 FBP ItR at 9:48 PM 8/15/2003

 

if noise and sound quality of the butt plug "in" isn't an issue, then the buddy club spec3 is the way to go.

 

I love my crush bent 2.5" exhaust.

 

i like my greddy evo it sound just fine when it back fires

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00 FBP ItR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Guess what.. so are the 2.5 muffler shop specials..

2.5" OD... 14 guage SS piping

2.5" - .14" = 2.36"

pretty cool huh.. you always thought you were getting 2.5.

no one ever cared to measure..
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exhaust tubing is measured by the OD not the ID like some think. Pipe is measured by the ID. There's a difference.

The smaller the gage number the thicker the wall. So,

18g is .049" wall
16g is .065" wall
14g is .083" wall

Remember to multply those wall thicknesses by 2 before subtracting from the OD.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blaze45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have always been under the impression that the better flowing exh. you will make more peak HP then a more restrictive exh. So my vote goes for an open header

Blaze</TD></TR></TABLE>



that's what i am currently doing with my new motor cause i haven't received my exhaust flanges yet to finish the piping to the muffler. yes it is very loud, kind of a pain in the *** to drive around. but the top end is very nice, though the motor isn't fully broken in yet.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SMSP &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Exhaust tubing is measured by the OD not the ID like some think. Pipe is measured by the ID. There's a difference.

The smaller the gage number the thicker the wall. So,

18g is .049" wall
16g is .065" wall
14g is .083" wall

Remember to multply those wall thicknesses by 2 before subtracting from the OD.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, excellent info to keep in mind.

 

spoon n1, t1r b pipe

 

wouldnt 2.5 inch piping in a B16A be too large. You'd want to make some good power before hand otherwise you'll lose too much in the bottom end and gain a few HP's in the high rev range.

Maybe find out about a 60mm exhaust. If your cars all motor then unlike turbo's bigger isnt better, you need to get the right back pressure for top gains across the rev range.

 

Why if the whole point is to minimize pumping losses would you want more back pressure ?

The point should be how is it applied

Ie obviuosly a turn down will create back pressure over a straight out. But when the car is moving it can be a different story

Also removal of the cat is punishable by 5k in fines and 6mos jail. All over 1-2 hp.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00 FBP ItR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Guess what.. so are the 2.5 muffler shop specials..

2.5" OD... 14 guage SS piping

2.5" - .64" = 2.36"

pretty cool huh.. you always thought you were getting 2.5.

no one ever cared to measure..
</TD></TR></TABLE>

But a 14g 60mm system will have an ID of 2.19", still 12% less internal cross-sectional area than a 2.5" system.