Well I was running the piping for my full-race manifold, and ran into this problem. I have a idea of what to do, but I want to see if any of you had any other ideas.

As you can see from the picture my piping hangs very low. If I cut the piping where the white line is, I won't have enough piping left to clamp onto.


What I was thinking to solve my problem is to get a custom 2" to 2.5" 90 degree reducer from turbohoses.com. This will put the bend right after the turbo and I can just use a straight piece of aluminum to connect to the bend going into the intercooler. BUT that custom 90 degree bend cost 95.00 BUX!

Just seeing if anyone else had any other ideas.

Thanks everyone!

 

On the car I biult with the full race manifold I cut the turbo outlet as high as I could and welded a tight radius aluminum 90 on it. The piping is level with the intercooler inlet. that was the only way I could do without it bugging me. If it was my car i would have done it ghetto but it was a customers car so i couldn't slack.

 

I would say just get the 90 degree coupler..

 

the best way to do it is to use a back door IC. It works better, spools faster and blows colder. Otherwise, do it like this:

http://www.full-race.com/chrisGSR/

that way you can still run a traction bar setup.

 

Yah, I was looking at it today, and I told myself that this truly is a manifold that is made and designed for a backdoor setup. But unfortunately I have the side to side endtanks. I went to the site today, and saw that integra. I am just out of aluminum piping, got some straight pipe left, but no bends.

So if I do the piping the tradional way I won't be able to run a Jim Fab Traction setup? So those guys with Drag kits and Maxrev kits can't run them as well? Cause this is how my piping ran on my old Max-rev kit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FFgeoff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

that way you can still run a traction bar setup.


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thats how two of my friends run theirs so they can still have the traction bars.

if it were me ide do what someone above mentioned and get a small 90deg aluminum pipe welded to the compressor outlet..that way you wouldnt have to worry about blowing off pipes...with the 90deg. coupling it would prolly work fine as long as you use good clamps but still, all the air being pushed out of the compressor is gonna hit strait into the bend of the silicon coupling, so it seems like theres alot more chance of it having problems blowing off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BodyKits NW &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> But unfortunately I have the side to side endtanks. I went to the site today, and saw that integra. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Just have the IC rewelded with the endtank hole capped, and put an inlet on the back. My IC used to be the same as yours. Heres an old pic, sorry if its huge, but its all i had..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BodyKits NW &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I was running the piping for my full-race manifold, and ran into this problem. I have a idea of what to do, but I want to see if any of you had any other ideas.

As you can see from the picture my piping hangs very low. If I cut the piping where the white line is, I won't have enough piping left to clamp onto.


What I was thinking to solve my problem is to get a custom 2" to 2.5" 90 degree reducer from turbohoses.com. This will put the bend right after the turbo and I can just use a straight piece of aluminum to connect to the bend going into the intercooler. BUT that custom 90 degree bend cost 95.00 BUX!

Just seeing if anyone else had any other ideas.

Thanks everyone! </TD></TR></TABLE>

On my set up I have the 90 degree bend it wasn't that much though more like $45 or so. My turbo is also clocked more forward too, I will take a pic but nobody say anything the U bend on the driver side looks nasty right now needs to be painted black like the other side, those U bends rust easy!









AGAIN NO FLAMES ON MY RUSTY U BEND AND NASTY SCREEN MESH OVER THE TURBO!!!!!!!!!! I will paint the pipe and put the filter on when it gets here. Does this help Andy? Our set ups are identical 99-00 Si with Full Race manis. Geoff was going to mod my intercooler as back door style but it didn't seem possible because it is pretty wide and the end tanks aren't that big either. Greddy Type 24

 

cheap way out: buy the turbohoses.com angle coupler

semi cheap way out...route it to you're fluid pump resevoir hole

expensive way out: weld a 90 on the turbo outlet or weld the IC shut and hit it form the back side

 

dood just cut the pipe thats connected to the pipe that hangs too low at the top goin through the fender , then it will be ok

 

haha, the 90 degree sounds like it would be the cleanest setup and a better setup than going up through the hole up behind the headlight.


Boostfed, I got a friend that does powdercoating. If you wanna send me those pipes I'll have him powdercoat them for you. PM Me and we can talk about it. Where did you get your 90 degree for 45 bux. I also looked at my intercooler and I would really have to shift it to use the backdoor setup.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BodyKits NW &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha, the 90 degree sounds like it would be the cleanest setup and a better setup than going up through the hole up behind the headlight.


Boostfed, I got a friend that does powdercoating. If you wanna send me those pipes I'll have him powdercoat them for you. PM Me and we can talk about it. Where did you get your 90 degree for 45 bux. I also looked at my intercooler and I would really have to shift it to use the backdoor setup. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Nah I am good on the powdercoating, I will just paint it black right there when I had DRAG 3 piping it got dirty as hell there anyway, but if maybe I make another U bend so I won't have any downtime I will contact you and thanks for offering. I got the 90 degree at my local shop who semi sponsors me, I get everything at cost, it was a Turbonetics 90 degree, also i have another one that is a little different that is not as rounded but is kinda like a hump hose 90 degree bend, here I took a pic from my Turbonetics catologue. Bad bad pic sorry

 

I think the easiest way would be to get a 2" elbow, and a little section of 2" piping, and connect the 2"-&gt;2 1/2" coupler to that (since you already have that), and cut the 90* elbow off the charge pipe. Hopefully you understand what I mean.

 

You need the BLUE thing in this picture: 90 degree purosil bend. Run that straight off turbo, in to 2" piping, and then use the 2"-&gt;2.5" converter downstream for your massive pipes.



I have one for sale, 50 shipped.

 

Boostfed, the non-aluminized piping probably looks similar to that (rusty) on the inside, too...I'd replace that before you start ingesting a bunch of oxidation into your motor...

Bodykits NW, I'd just take those pipes someplace and have them welded...they aren't aluminum are they? Anyway, if you need a coupler in there to be able to get it on the car! Just have them weld the pipes together and then re-cut them in a different place, so you can install, have a shorter pipe and still use a coupler.

OR, you could just cut some off of the pipe that is above the reducer (the smaller one above the white line). Then you could just rotate that whole section, clockwise in the picture, to get more clearence.

 

I use all Aluminum piping on my setup. I think I am just goin to get a 2" 90 degree bend for 38.00 bux and use a small pipe and connect the 90 with my 2" to 2.5 reducer and connect it to the 2.5" pipe. The only problem was getting the 90 to bend earlier so the piping would not hang too low.

I believe the 90 degree silicone piece will do the trick and allow the bend to be right after the turbo outlet and give me the clearance. Then I can rotate the turbo to raise the piping even more. I think that should work.

 

i would try to weld a 90 on the compressor housing, that way you would avoid any potential blowoffs,,, i think that would solve the problem, or use the 90 rubber/silicone bend,,, tough one here, good descriptive pics too!

 

Thank you everyone!

 

with all of the lovefab manifodl set ups i've done the u-bend wasnt a problem to use. i had the problem with the 2 inch to 2.25 ( etcc) reducer so i just cut the reducer down to size and cutted the pipe a little in order for it to work. but the 90 degree coupler would be the cleanest and best route.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by uglyasscivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On the car I biult with the full race manifold I cut the turbo outlet as high as I could and welded a tight radius aluminum 90 on it. The piping is level with the intercooler inlet. that was the only way I could do without it bugging me. If it was my car i would have done it ghetto but it was a customers car so i couldn't slack.</TD></TR></TABLE>
exactly what i was going to say.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BodyKits NW &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
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um....why cut it sooo low?? why not just start cutting from the TOP of the pipe down in 1/2" increments...if you cut a half inch off the top of the pipe then that's an extra 1/2" of pipe that will fit into the connector...and it looks like you've got a good 3" of pipe to work with. not ONLY that but that connector is HELLA long...why not cut back on BOTH for some extra footage...

hell, in the long run you'll only end up doing what is suggested with the 90's yet this would be cheaper to TRY first off...

damn, some people just jump out for mr. expensive route right off without thinking...