Once again I am calling on my fellow accords for technical help.

As stated in the title I failed my emissions test for inspection today . I failed HC (hydrocarbons) at idle although all results seem high. My car is a 96 accord ex coupe, 120,xxx miles, intake and exhaust.

Here is last years (2002) emissions values for comparison:

IDLE - CO2= 0.02% < 1.00%, HC= 31ppm < 130ppm, RPM= 723, DIL= 13.5%
2500rpm - CO2= 0.13% <1.00%, HC= 15ppm < 130ppm, RPM= 2549, DIL =13.5%

**Last years passing test was with I/H/E, with new cat, old plugs and wires,
and a EGR CEL**

Today's Test (2003):

IDLE - CO2= 0.61% < 1.00%, HC= 237ppm > 130ppm, RPM= 1006, DIL= 14.8%
2500rpm - CO2= 0.70% <1.00%, HC= 72ppm < 130ppm, RPM= 2509, DIL =15.0%

**Today's test was with
I/E (factory header is on),
no CEL (cleaned EGR ports last month),
new PCV valve, new plugs and wires**

Any ideas guys. Something to know is that the cat is a $130 replacement I bought from the internet. Not sure how quality it is. Do you think running a year with clogged EGR ports could foul it? Maybe it went bad (cheap)? Also the tests were from two different shops. The guy who failed it was cool though. He tested once and didn't believe it failed, so he drove it around for a while and tested again - fail.

Otherwise the car runs good. Right now I'm thinking of getting a new cat and two new O2 sensors (never changed). Anything else I should consider?

Thanks in advance!

 

Is you car modified (engine swap, cams, ECU, etc.)?


If it's not modified, all I can say is "OUCH!"....Your car is under factory warranty. Honda has an emission warranty extension for part of '95, all of '96 and part of '97. Before 75k we do a free inspection and fix any emission related problems (no charge). From 75k to 150k we do another free inspection, replace the spark plugs, plug wires, rotor/cap, do an oil change and fix any emmission related problems (again, no charge).

Remove any performance related items and take it to the dealer. If you need a new converter, hopefully they won't give you any problems since it's not a factory part.

 

i'm pretty sure a hi-flow cat and exhaust with void that warranty though.

 

How dirty was your oil? See my sig...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fluxion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm pretty sure a hi-flow cat and exhaust with void that warranty though. </TD></TR></TABLE>

They shouldn't b/k they are direct replacements and not "off-road only".

 

The engine is not modified at all.
By the way, the cat is not a high flow cat, just a replacement.

 

Off to dealer you go....

 

Go to another state-inspection location, and give them an extra 30 dollars. Thats how things work around here in NYC, and I'm pretty sure most people would let you slide for 30+ dollars. After all, most 96 accords pass emissions, so I don't think the mechanic is taking a huge risk, by letting you slide.

 

easy way to pass.. my friend has a zc in his 4th gen civic.. first of all if the cat-converter is old.. it needs to be changed.. and second.. use about 1 litre of methol hydrate and throw it in with a half tank of gas.. run it until ur almost empty then go for the e-test.. it passed my buddy;s car with flying colours

 

did u notice that at idle, the engine speed is ~1000rpm? if your car isnt warmed up, your car is gonna idle high, and the cat isnt going to be working at its full potential. your cat needs to be warmed up for it to work well

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dantastic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did u notice that at idle, the engine speed is ~1000rpm? if your car isnt warmed up, your car is gonna idle high, and the cat isnt going to be working at its full potential. your cat needs to be warmed up for it to work well</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good Point. I didn't notice that. My car normally idles around 750 when it's warm. I'm going to ask the mechanic about this. He did say he ran it up the road before a second failing test. But the results don't indicate a warm idle.

Side Question - can O2 sensors go bad wihout a CEL? Mine are still the original and curious whether I should change them anyway.

Thanks guys.