Alrighty, my last post was about trying to get my check engine light to even turn on (dead bulb) when the car wouldn't even start. Now i got the light to work however the light wont blink when i ground out the D4 wire like it should, and the car still wont start. I was doing some wiring under the hood and think i possible could have fried my ECU. All the connections are there, and my turn signals, gauges etc. all work and the car even turns over but it wont start. I don't think it's the fuel pump either. I have a P28 hooked up to a D16Y8 in my 88 CRX. How would i check if my ECU is fried? I opened her up and saw no visible damage. PLEASE HELP

 

I have been here before. I would first check to see if you have spark. If you don't, have spark, crack open the distributor (not literally of course) and check to see if there is power going to the coil if there is see if the igniter is working (Pulsating current when cranking.) If there is good spark, see if you have fuel pressure. If none of these are present go through the trouble shooting guide for no start/cranking in the HONDA OEM MANUAL to diagnose computer.

 

Excuse my lack of knowlege but how should i check for spark, and if the ignitor is working...i know for the fuel pressure i just pop off a hose from the filter and start it, if fuel comes out i'm good. I've never opened a distributor so what exactly should i look at and do. Thanks

 

Ok, in your situation I would go buy either the Honda OEM Service Manual (the best $$) or A chiltons. I highly reccomend the factory service manual. Very thourogh and shows pictures of tools needed. If you have never done something like this I would find someone who has and become best friends with them. Trust me, I have dumped way to much money into my EF thinking it was the ECU. The factory manual saved my *** though and Im sure it will save yours. So go buy one and tell us the good news.

 

My buddy just called me up with the same problem. i told him to check the main relay as a process of elimination. They do go bad from time to time.

good luck

 

I'll check mine too, where is it again?

 

hey mntuner2, i should buy the manual for my 88 CRX right? not for the type of engine or ECU...

 

If the ecu seems like it wont flash because of power or is dim check below.

make sure you have the ground to the engine harness tightened down- the one by the back water neck. Im not talking about the front ground or tranny ground.

If Ecu has a solid CEL.
try a known good ecu, if it does the same thing you have a problem with the wiring.

 

What up

Sorry for the delay in reply. I would get the manual(s) for the items you have installed on the vehicle. Whatever you do, REMEBER BASIC THEORY:

Air ---------------- ( Engine vacuum idle/acceleration, compression, leak down...)
Fuel -------------- (Just that, fuel PSI, injector control/balanced flow)
Spark ----------- (ignition timing, voltage output to plugs)

= ingredients to make fire (you may interperet these as you wish)

+ --------------> -

check for bad ground too, alot of problems on repainted cars, older, damaged and outright weird crap.

Whatever you do, if you have a question about a procedure or term I would make sure you understand fully before proceeding. This will save you money, skinned knuckles, sweat, tears, muscle aches, bruises, headaches, lost sleep, heartache, time and did I say aches? You get the idea.

 

Thanks for the help man, you'll never guess what it was that was preventing me from starting...blown "Alternator Solenoid Valve" FUSE...now i have a crappy idle though. I'm troubleshooting that. The engine idles normal untill i drive it real hard then it idles high for a short minute. When idling for a long time the rpm's drop 150 or so and then creap back up to 750...then drop again. I don't get it...anyone else?

 

OK, now you got the car running...some what. Do you have any codes to work with? If not you probably have a vcuum leak somewhere. Did you check the wiring going the the Electronic Air Control Valve? How bou the Idle Control valve? Places to start if you dont have codes.

 

No codes the engine seems to be working fine except for the idle problems. People have been telling me it's most likely a vaccum leak but i have no idea how to look for them. I mean it could be an intake manifold gasket, or any other gasket...but how do i know without dismantling it all? I was going to replace the thermostat because i was thinking if it is clogged it may change my idle. Maybe not. One thing is i'm pretty sure that the IACV is working right. My A/C isn't charged yet but when i turn it on the idle doesn't drop. WHat is the EACV and what does that do? Thanks.

 

Woo, slow down. First the ac wont kick on unless theres pressure in the system. The Electronic Air Control Valve feeds atmosphere to the intake manifold at certain times (During change in acceleration, load, throttle position etc.) This was malfunctioning on mine after i got my z6 all wired up.

To check for vacuum leaks bring the car up to operating temperature (im assuming this is when it gets bad?) Then you can do 1 of two things:

1. If you dont care about what you spray on your engine, spray some starting fluid or something volitile around the suspected gasket (there are many, even hoses and sensors may create a leak too.) If the idle goes normal then you found the leak.

2. They make special stethescopes with just tubes on them, Run end of tube along all suspected areas. When hisssssssing noise gets louder you have found the leak. Just make sure you know where exactly the leak is comming from!

 

haha, sorry about that...i just get excited. I want to get this thing running perfect but it's one thing after another that i gotta figure out. I appreciate your help a lot...i think i have an old stethescope laying around so i'll check it out and get back to you. I don't know about spraying starting fluid around my engine .

One more thing...where do i check for vaccum leaks? I just thought i needed to check the intake manifold; all the gaskets and hoses. Let me know if there is more i should check. THANKS!

 

Now that i think about it i remember the butterfly on my TB not being totally perpendicular to the TB...it looked as if air may be able to slip under it. Only a very small amount...would this be considered a vaccum leak or part of my problem?

I didn't mess with it because i didn't know if it should be like that.

 

I think this is normal, I have a bored out throttle body on my z6 and there is a little gap there. You should check for leaks downstream of the throttle body. Do you have that service manual yet?

 

Yeah i ordered a cd from ebay with the the mitchel (dealer) repair manual.

The intake manifold on my D16Y8 is from a 95 Civic, either Si or Ex (they may be the same???). I checked out the gasket and it looks a little loose in some areas, maybe due to the difference in parts. If i have a 95 Si/Ex manifold on a 98 Si engine (D16Y8), which gasket should i use?

 

The intake gasket is the same from 88-00 sohc d series so there is no difference. The gasket should not be flush with the flange it should stick out a little around the manifold. Did you try tightening all the intake bolts. Cause if it looks loose you may have found the problem. Try letting the car idle and sparying a little brakleen on the suspected area. If it stop idling weird you found the problem.