I know it's a given that all '96+ models are OBD-2, but the one we're working on now leads me to believe otherwise.

Pro-OBD1
1.) Injector clips are OBD-1 with the wire retainers, not the kind where you squeeze the sides to pop them off (which is OBD-2).

2.) Distributor has two plugs. One has (4) wires and the other has (2) wires. The two wire plug has a thick (~14-16AWG) blue wire which I'm guessing is a tach signal wire that goes from the ICM to the external coil.

3.) The crank has a sensor, which I originally thought was a CKF sensor, might in fact be a CYP or CKP sensor. No CKF sensor = negative OBD-2 indicator. Right?

Contradictions:
The car does have two HO2 sensors. One on the #4 exhaust manifold runner and another on the exhaust. I have yet to confirm whether it's before or after the cat, but I'm guessing it is.

Accord's, Prelude's, and Civic's seem to have so many variations and contradicting generalizations that they bend the rules into pre-obsolescence. Yeesh.

I'll probably take pics later on just for people that need to see it to believe it.

 

sounds like obd2 if you have 2 o2 sensors... could be just an earlier version.

 

I'll know more when I look at the ECU and ECU pinouts/functions b/c that's where it'll count the most.

 

If it's an American model, it's OBD2 and it is warrantied for 10 yrs or 150,000 miles (it's a warranty extension). Do your customer a favor and send it to the dealer so Honda can pick up the bill. If it's a Canadian model, I'm not really sure...

 

I don't think Honda will appreciate having to do a H22A swap, especially when they don't even know what a H22A is.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't think Honda will appreciate having to do a H22A swap, especially when they don't even know what a H22A is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

correct!

 

It's definitely an OBD-2 ECU with OBD-1 injector harnesses. The ECU has 4 sockets, not 3.

Doesn't matter b/c it's making it that much easier to swap in the JDM H22A.

Crank angle and TDC sensors were a problem b/c the F22B2 distributor only has 1 pickup (CYP sensor I think), while the JDM H22A distributor had 3 pickups (CYP, TDC, and CKP). The Accord's other two pickups read off of the crankshaft. This explains why the JDM H22A distributor plug has 8 + 2 wires/pins and the F22B2 distributor plug has only 4 + 2 wires/pins.

All I have to do now is rewire the wires from the front of the motor to the JDM H22A distributor. The ICM (ignitor) wiring is the same for both distributor plugs.

If anybody needs the details, I took pictures of all the SM's wiring diaghrams, layouts/illustrations I drew, pictures I took of both distributors, and distributor/crank plugs.

I'll probably make another post about it since I've found a couple of archived posts about people needing help with situations like this.

BTW, both distributors were external coil.

 

Pics of the wiring for adding a H22A distributor to a '96 F22B2 (Accord LX motor).









Ghetto-***'d shielding for the signal wire.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't think Honda will appreciate having to do a H22A swap, especially when they don't even know what a H22A is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL! I didn't know you were doing a swap...

Did you take the ash tray out?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't think Honda will appreciate having to do a H22A swap, especially when they don't even know what a H22A is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

?

the dealer i worked for had an in-house built and sponsored CRX Si rally car

there are plenty of dealers that can wrench circles around 99% of shade tree mechanics

 

Not this Honda dealer.

 

nor
the one i work for

 

My dealer will work on modified vehicles. We have a 22 year old, $8 an hour, mullet wearing, classic rock listening, hybrid speacialist ready to fuc...uhh...fix you right up.

 

Just a few tips for those swapping.

Use the F22B2 EGR actuation valve on the #4 intake runner. The H22A EGR socket (oval) was different than the F22B2's (rectangular), and the wire colors were different, but probably identical in function.

Use the F22B2 engine harness.
Strip both harnesses and integrate the VTM/VTS, IAB, and KS wires.

Do not extend the reverse gear sensor or starter wire.

Wires to bundle:
.Fan thermoswitch & EGR actuation valve
.ECT sensor & ECT gauge sending unit
.IACV & IAT sensors

Things to do just before dropping in the motor:
.Install the rear and tranny mounts. Bolt down the rear mount securely to the motor, but you should leave the tranny mount on loosely to give it more freedom to move, making it easier to line up the holes and thread the long bolt through. A small hammer helps to get the threads to meet when installing the long bolts.
.Remove the throttle body - we accidently crushed the TPS. Maybe others will be better about it.

Installing the driver-side mount first might be easier than installing the front engine mount first, but we did it front mount loosely before installing the driver-side mount and it wasn't difficult to get them all lined up.

Hoses that need to be replaced with longer ones before the H22 engine goes in (to make the replacement easier):
.Heater hose going to the passenger-side of the cylinder head from the heater control box. Use H22 line.
.Heater hose going to the engine main water pipe to the firewall. Use H22 line.
.Fuel pressure regulator's fuel return line. Go to the auto store (ie: Autozone, Kragen, Pepgirls) and get a 1/4" fuel hose (probably about 24" long, and you can trim it to fit with enough slack for engine movement). The 1/4" fuel hose fits real tight over the FPR (even with oil to lube it in), but just right on the firewall line. A 5/16" fuel hose is just right on the FPR, but too loose on the firewall line.
I ended up using the 5/16" and a hose clamp to properly secure the return line.

Fuel feed line from the fuel filter to the fuel rail:
.F22 fuel feed line won't work with a H22 fuel rail. It won't seat all the way down b/c of the way the neck is shaped on the F22 fuel feed line as well as the position of the guides on the H22 fuel rail. A custom line will work, but hard to make. I'm not sure about the H22 fuel feed line, but I'm guessing it would work just fine.

Power steering pump pulley:
.The PS pump pulley on the H22A was cracked, so we were looking for a replacement. The jury isn't out on it yet, but I think the Integra one will work (we're gonna try the one from a '94-'95 JDM B18C swap). The pulley offset looks similar so the belt should line up just fine with the crank pulley ribs. The Integra pulley is also larger in diameter, which would underdrive the pump.


Modified by IN VTEC at 2:07 AM 8/24/2003

 

Other facts and helpful tips:

You cannot use the Accord's AC Compressor with the H22A AC bracket. The bolt patterns on the brackets are all the so that you can put either bracket on either block, but there are bracket-to-compressor clearance problems when using the H22 bracket with the Accord compressor. You can probably use the H22 compressor with the F22 bracket, but the belt length will be longer.
We ended up using the F22 AC compressor and bracket b/c the H22's AC compressor had battery acid spilled all over it and one of the bolts for the fittings broke into the compressor.

The original part number we got with the H22A was 6PK1115 (Mitsuboshi - Honda long part number: blah-blah-003 [I'll get it later]). That's like a 44" belt or 6PK440 if you're getting somethjng like a Dayco belt from Pepgirls. That belt was too long to use with the H22A crank pulley and F22 AC compressor and bracket.

I ended up having to get a 6PK430 b/c the 6PK410 they had listed in their system for a '94 Prelude Vortec was too short.\\


You cannot use the Honda or Moroso crankshaft pulley holder tool to hold help loosen or torque down the crankshaft pulley bolt....unless you drop the engine by undoing the driver-side motor mount. Another solution to tightening or removing the crank pulley is to jam a screwdriver into the ring gear of the flywheel and using a shallow 19mm with a short 3" extension to clear the fenderwell lip. The crankshaft pulley itself goes on and off without a hitch.\\

For any swap, I'd run the engine with some non-synthetic 5W-30 or 10W-30 inexpensive oil and filter for a few minutes and then change the oil and filter to whatever you'd normally like to use.\\

That's all for now.


Modified by IN VTEC at 2:04 AM 8/24/2003

 

What do ya know? It runs. We didn't hook up the primary O2 sensor, so we initially threw a code 41. After alleviating that problem, no other codes popped up.

JDM H22A P13 Auto ECU in a '96 Accord LX (F22B2) MT with F22B2 engine harness draped over OBD-1 JDM H22A.

No road test yet b/c we've still got to bleed the cooling system, set ignition timing, and maybe redo teh TPS voltage calibration over again.

It was set to .51V (fully closed) and 4.3xx (WOT). I'm gonna adjust the throttle stop plate and recheck the throttle cable tension.

 

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