FUEL PRESSURE REG/UNREG
a FPR is a FPR. 2 most commonly used ones are the B&M and AEM
with the B&M you have to modify the stock reg. which means if you wanna go back to stock you will need a new one.
with teh AEM its the entire unit, but costs 2x as much.
Get which ever one you want.
with the B&M you have to modify the stock reg. which means if you wanna go back to stock you will need a new one.
with teh AEM its the entire unit, but costs 2x as much.
Get which ever one you want.
get on the dyno and see what the car likes.
i would run stock settings until you get on a dyno.....~45ish psi, if it helps any i run 42 on my ITR
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regulated...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BRWFIT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">REGULATED IS WITH VACCUM</TD></TR></TABLE>
never heard it called that...i guess you learn something new every day
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BRWFIT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">REGULATED IS WITH VACCUM</TD></TR></TABLE>
never heard it called that...i guess you learn something new every day
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PacMan ITR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">regulated...
never heard it called that...i guess you learn something new every day</TD></TR></TABLE>
Me neither i always heard of it as static fuel pressure.Also if your running all motor you dont need an FMU.I beleive you need the FPR no matter what.
never heard it called that...i guess you learn something new every day</TD></TR></TABLE>
Me neither i always heard of it as static fuel pressure.Also if your running all motor you dont need an FMU.I beleive you need the FPR no matter what.
Yes you need a fuel pressure regulator. Adjustable is another story. If you tune with Hondata or something similar you don't need an adjustable one. B&M is a great bang for buck one. What are you talking about regulated unregulated? Oh and check your CAPS LOCK key. Might be stuck.
hahha weird ..UN-REGULATED,.... that just sounds funny..yet techinical..sorta
anyways when you prime (key is on "on" and the motor not yet crank) the FPR should be a little higher then when the MOTOR is actually running. Atleast thats how it is with both of my cars.
well you do need a FPR even with hondata... FPR set the overall fuel pressure in the fuel rail. Like when you do an afc hack and hondata you can only add more fuel by certain RPM or load in % wise. I know with the afc you can only do that in 500rpm increments. With hondata I know that you can add more fuel at ANY rpm but it would be a bitch to have to go into every rpm increment and have to fiddle around with. A FPR is needed with hondata or anyother standalone ECU fuel managment system.... atleast thats what I think...... correct me if i'm worng.
anyways when you prime (key is on "on" and the motor not yet crank) the FPR should be a little higher then when the MOTOR is actually running. Atleast thats how it is with both of my cars.
well you do need a FPR even with hondata... FPR set the overall fuel pressure in the fuel rail. Like when you do an afc hack and hondata you can only add more fuel by certain RPM or load in % wise. I know with the afc you can only do that in 500rpm increments. With hondata I know that you can add more fuel at ANY rpm but it would be a bitch to have to go into every rpm increment and have to fiddle around with. A FPR is needed with hondata or anyother standalone ECU fuel managment system.... atleast thats what I think...... correct me if i'm worng.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Charlie Moua »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well you do need a FPR even with hondata... FPR set the overall fuel pressure in the fuel rail. Like when you do an afc hack and hondata you can only add more fuel by certain RPM or load in % wise. I know with the afc you can only do that in 500rpm increments. With hondata I know that you can add more fuel at ANY rpm but it would be a bitch to have to go into every rpm increment and have to fiddle around with. A FPR is needed with hondata or anyother standalone ECU fuel managment system.... atleast thats what I think...... correct me if i'm worng.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am not a professional or authorized Hondata tuner by any means, so I will let someone who is chime in. Primarily Steve. I've had a quick discussion before on why one isn't needed when he was tuning my friends GSR. He can explain better then I will. It is under my understanding that the base stock pressure is fine and tuning within the unit for adding/subtracting fuel will compensate over changing the fuel pressure. I guess it kinda makes sense because if you change the base rate to a higher PSI would you not then still have to add subtract fuel?
Like let's say you tune on a base pressure of 42psi. Now you increase the pressure to 48psi. Well you are still dumping the same volume of fule, now at a higher rate so you are going to run rich and will have to lean out with the Hondata. Hopefully I understood this correctley.
I am not a professional or authorized Hondata tuner by any means, so I will let someone who is chime in. Primarily Steve. I've had a quick discussion before on why one isn't needed when he was tuning my friends GSR. He can explain better then I will. It is under my understanding that the base stock pressure is fine and tuning within the unit for adding/subtracting fuel will compensate over changing the fuel pressure. I guess it kinda makes sense because if you change the base rate to a higher PSI would you not then still have to add subtract fuel?
Like let's say you tune on a base pressure of 42psi. Now you increase the pressure to 48psi. Well you are still dumping the same volume of fule, now at a higher rate so you are going to run rich and will have to lean out with the Hondata. Hopefully I understood this correctley.
Here is some stuff i posted awhile back that I dug up from HT.
I did a search and this is what I got.
From what I read the proper way to adjust the FPR is to pull the vac line off and plug it,then adjust the FPR.Doing this is the fuel pressure you get at WOT.Or you can adjust the FPR while the car is off according to the hondata website.
Here is a quote that I got from HT:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you read it with the hose on you are reading the regulated pressure. You set the pressure for WOT under load since that is when you are gonna need the fuel. Since getting the car to WOT and under load in your garage is difficult to do the easiest way is to pull and cap the vacuum line. This is basically what the car does when you floor it. By shutting off/removing the vacuum you open the regulator up all the way. This is where you set your pressure.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Here is what I got from Hondata:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The fuel pressure should be measured and adjusted without the engine running. If the engine is running then the manifold vacuum will cause the fuel pressure regulator to lower the fuel pressure. Since manifold vacuum is dependent on idle speed and cam timing, this is not an accurate and repeatable way to measure or set fuel pressure.
To measure or set fuel pressure switch the ignition key to on but don't start the engine. The fuel pump should prime the fuel system. You may need to flip the ignition key between off and on repeatedly.
During a dyno run under full load check that the fuel pressure is correct. For naturally asteriated cars the fuel pressure under load should be the same as the static fuel pressure. For forced induction cars the fuel pressure should be the static pressure plus the manifold pressure.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Let me if this is the correct way to adjust it.Also what is Static fuel pressure,is that when the vac line is pulled?
I did a search and this is what I got.
From what I read the proper way to adjust the FPR is to pull the vac line off and plug it,then adjust the FPR.Doing this is the fuel pressure you get at WOT.Or you can adjust the FPR while the car is off according to the hondata website.
Here is a quote that I got from HT:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you read it with the hose on you are reading the regulated pressure. You set the pressure for WOT under load since that is when you are gonna need the fuel. Since getting the car to WOT and under load in your garage is difficult to do the easiest way is to pull and cap the vacuum line. This is basically what the car does when you floor it. By shutting off/removing the vacuum you open the regulator up all the way. This is where you set your pressure.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Here is what I got from Hondata:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The fuel pressure should be measured and adjusted without the engine running. If the engine is running then the manifold vacuum will cause the fuel pressure regulator to lower the fuel pressure. Since manifold vacuum is dependent on idle speed and cam timing, this is not an accurate and repeatable way to measure or set fuel pressure.
To measure or set fuel pressure switch the ignition key to on but don't start the engine. The fuel pump should prime the fuel system. You may need to flip the ignition key between off and on repeatedly.
During a dyno run under full load check that the fuel pressure is correct. For naturally asteriated cars the fuel pressure under load should be the same as the static fuel pressure. For forced induction cars the fuel pressure should be the static pressure plus the manifold pressure.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Let me if this is the correct way to adjust it.Also what is Static fuel pressure,is that when the vac line is pulled?
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