what do u guys do do u powershift,speedshift,or shift regular but fast? what are your times and method? i'm going to track for my first time thanks i have a 95 gs-r


[Modified by 95vtec, 4:29 AM 8/10/2001]

 

none of that power/speed shifting bs. it just f*cks up ur car faster. just shift like normal but faster and make sure the gears go in clutch/shift/gas

 

powershifting can improve your 1/4.... but don't do it.... it's bad!

 

Power shift the hell out of it! No lift shift all the way; keep that puppy in VTEC and/or boost! Keep them revs up! These are Hondas!!! 5500rpm clutch dump off the e-brake then boom gas pedal stays to the floor, tap clutch and grab 2nd at 8400, tap clutch grab 3rd at 8200, tap clutch grab 4th at 8200. Accelerator is floored this entire time. then, 1/4 over, I win.

 

Every car has its sweet spot for launch as tires and tire pressure play a role. But as for shifts go just focus on the car and fast shifts.. power shifts just help wear **** out like the clutch. That tenth a second you might get isn't worth the money and garage time for new parts...

 

Power shifts ruin the clutch? Damage would more likely be done to gearsets, synchros, and engine internals. The clutch would be the least of worries. Unless you're running a sequential shifting trans built with gears cut for this type of shifting, you would more likely lose time on the quarter mile.

Power shifting isn't recommended for a synchro tranny.

 

No lift shifting saves about .2-.3 off my ET. Probably 50+ passes with this method and a tad over 10k miles on my ACT stage 2 and my clutch shows nearly no wear on the disc to date. My engine likes to be in the top of the rpm range, if I were driving a stockish B series or a boosted car, I would let off the throttle at the track ever so gently between shifts, but for my setup, no lift is the preferred method. Im also tuned with this in mind as well.

 

Why does your car differ from others? At the drag strip no lift shifting (aka powershifting) will ALWAYS be the fastest way unless you have an automatic. Especially in a boosted car

With that being said I wouldn't bother with 1/4 in a Honda to be honest. No disrespect to anyone here. FWD doesn't belong at the track IMHO.

 

With today's technology Fwd applications can be competitive with rwd or AWD cars in any road competition. Saying they don't belong at the track is such a biased blanket statement lol. It's like when people say automatic trans cars are slow, or 4cyls don't belong in drag cars etc. Can the rwd platform typically out launch fwd? Indeed, but we still have normally aspirated 4 cyl FWDs going 9s in the 1/4 these days, and boosted applications going well below that, so obviously in some applications fwd can indeed work at the strip. Hell my built naturally aspirated full weight/fully optioned SI is totally competitive at the dragstrip with tons of modern day rwd "muscle cars" and I have half their engine displacement and fwd, but I still often post better times than majority of the bolt on NA Camaros, Chargers, Challengers etc. That I've run.

Anyway even with all that being said, I'm still in the works to sell my EM and add some cash for a nasty 2012 rwd muscle car lol.

 

B20VtecVillain do you have specs of your car and what it runs? Any slips? What is your 60', 1/8, and 1/4? MPH?

 

To add to the power shift contravention a friend of mine missed a gear power shifting at the track sending the rpms passed 10k and ruining his motor I'm not sure exactly what but it was dead. Lots of people remove Rev limiter and when you do that you have nothing to save you when you miss a gear. Missing a gear will happen I don't care who you are it happens...

 

Anyone that removes the rev limiter of a motor deserves anything that comes their way. You can't help stupid

 

I guess so

 

84mm 12.5:1 B20V
Manley I beams
CP Pistons
Stock sleeve B20b block
Machined/rebalanced B20 crank
ACL race bearings throughout.
Ported B16a2 head
(int & exh sides)
1mm oversize valves
Full Supertech VT
Skunk2 Pro 1 cams/ Sk2 gears
Ported/matched ITR intake manifold
AEM fuel rail & FPR
RC 330 injectors
Walbro 255lph in tank
PLM Header
3" Thermal RD stainless exhaust
AEM V2 cold air
Tuned on Hondata S300v2
221whp on standard Shell 93
243 on 93 + Race-Gas additive and very aggressive tune.
Suspension has gone thru numerous stages, but currently on Tein coil overs, Greddy front strut bar, Type R rear bar, Innovative mounts, Energy Suspension poly bushings throughout.
Trans is an S4C, Quaife LSD diff, 5th gear cuff. Skunk2 shifter with Spoon weighted ****.
Chassis is an EM1 coupe
(1999 USDM Civic SI)
Would be a concistant 13.0 index car on street rubber and is good for mid-low 12s on slicks and skinnys running back to back to back hot laps with no issues of heat soak or failures of any kind. So far have almost 13k total miles and nearly 3 years of hard track and street passes and countless dyno pulls.

 

I averaged 12.60-12.50s at just under 110 with 2.0 avg 60s last season. Best she's gone was like 12.38 at around 112 with a 1.89 60 on some really nice borrowed MH slicks/skinnys. My rollers are a more budget minded setup and need some updating. Still deciding whether to go boost and better grip to take the SI further for this season or sell it to a willing buyer I already have a build a new toy. Test drove a low mileage 2012 5.0 GT 6 speed the other day and the powerband of that Coyote V8 is beautiful. Plus from light reading I see people making over 400whp and going deep into the 11s NA with bolt ons and tuning, so I'm REALLy tempted to venture to the dark side lol

 

You have an absolute laundry list of mods to your car and you run what my 2003 Mustang Mach 1 ran with

gears
catback
shifter
rai
tires in the rear

This is the point I was trying to make. The FWD does not belong at the track.

I'm not trying to dog your car and I'M NOT. It sounds nice and I admire your desire. I'm just talking honestly, if you are looking at going fast at the 1/4...FWD isn't the way to start.

However at the end of the day unless you are in a class, running at the track is just for fun. So hell as long as you are having fun, who cares!? Nice car man, sounds badass.

 

I cant believe B20VtecVillain brought this topic out from the dead. It was started 14 years ago...What are the chances they even care for this answer? Lol. Just sayin.

 

Zombie thread FTW!
And it's not so much that I'm fwd why it takes a long list of mods to equal that of your Mach, it's more cuz you have twice as much engine as well. My car started with under 150hp as a fuel sipping economy car lol.....takes a little bit to get her up to par with a real performance machine without the aid of boost.

 

Realistically my car wouldn't be much of any faster rwd than it is fwd. I mean, under 250hp, almost 3000lbs, mid 12s at 110. Not gonna ring much more out of that regardless which wheels you power.

 

110mph trap speed is good for low 12's, not mid 12's. The thing with ETs is most all of it is made in the first 60'. 1.8 60' is what most RWD cars with street tires can pull (with a driver worth a damn). Throw some sticky tires on a RWD car and you have 1.5 60'. That makes a HUGE difference in ET.

 

*sigh* I was waiting on this. "You has more motors than my car"

ET and MPH has nothing at all to do with what you have in the engine bay (unless you are traction limited). The clock doesn't know what you have in your engine bay. 110mph is 110mph...what you do with that MPH decides what your ET is.

Even then, you are agreeing with me that a FWD fuel sipping economy car doesn't belong at the track. That is like taking a McDonalds employee and trying to turn him into a successful Wall Street broker. Sure it could work if you put enough into it, but why the trouble?

 

FWD is **** from a dig aka drag, roll they have a "better" chance yes there are low 8 second Honda's but those are so far from stock frame/body its hard to call them a car anymore.

 

This

These little light weight fart cannons with a turbo absolutely shine from a roll.

 

Exactly, fwd is good up top which is why my trap speed is high for my ET. Your comparing a 4v 4.6 to a CRV engine in my car lol. And your argument is claimed to be about fwd but really your saying 4 Cyls don't belong at the track. Your saying FWD sucks because I go mid 12s not low 12s. A couple of tenths.....really? I've walked plenty of rwd Foxbodys with identical power figures to me at the same weight and they're rwd. How about instead of my fwd car sucks, you realize that my fwd 240hp economic shitbox is totally competitive with your rwd Mach 1 v8 muscle car with over 300whp? If you can't atleast admit that's respectable then your not a car enthusiast your just a rwd **** lol

 

You don't seem to know how running at the track works. No, a fwd does not do good up top for any reason other than lack of traction "down low". Your trap speed is right where it should be for a 1.8 60'. You don't back half like a monster or anything so pump the brakes.

And no...I'm claiming FWD doesn't belong at the track. I said nothing about a 4 cylinder, you did. The difference between low 12's and mid 12's isn't a couple of tenths as you put it, its half a second. That is a big difference at the track.

You seem to need some type of reassurance that you did a good job with your fully built motor/trans car or something. Fact is you are in no way at all competitive with my Mach 1 at the track or on the street from any type of low roll or dig. I'm stating that it ran mid 12's (in fact 12.5 exactly) with nothing but a hand full of bolt ons and some tires. And that was the only run I got in. When I first got it and it was stock other than a catback that does nothing, it ran 13.2 the first and only run. Over 300rwhp? Try 280rwhp and I have the dyno to prove it. I'm not trying to brag and I'm not but you are barking up the wrong tree here.