I've been stuck trying to convert my car to obd0 to obd1, car cranks but doesnt start, there's no spark. The harness follows http://www.geocities.com/kurtsi_on/page10.html I double triple checked. The fuel pump primes when the ignition is on. I plug in a p28 and CEL stays on but no blinking to show codes. I plug in a jdm p72 and only shows code 20(two long blinks) my car doesnt have an ELD anyways and I was told I dont need it. The obd1 distributor was taken off a running car. I checked the two white wires on the dist. harness made and sure the correct ignitor signal (yel/grn on a21) went to the yel/grn on the dist. and matched up the rest of the dist. wire colors. Fuses are good.

The eacv makes a quiet noise when the ignition is on, dunno if that's normal.
The link above says to do this but I'm not sure Purge Control Solenoid OBD1 (A20) --> OBD0 (A6) obd0 labels A6 as a ground

This is driving me crazy! CRAZY!

 

The distributor colors on OBD0 and OBD1 don't neccesarily match up. Label them, and then match up the labels. Yes I've seen engines w/o ELD. What did you do with the resistor box? Also, you converted to a 4-wire o2 sensor?

Whups, just checked the PR3->P61 conversion I did. And the dizzy wires, colored should be the same. I messed up the grounds, I switched the starter ground, and the ground to the water housing pump.... That caused big problems. Good luck.

-PHiZ

 

yup, ran the 4wire o2 straight from the o2 to ecu(oem obd1 harness came in handy). i'm keeping the resistor box, peak/hold=big injectors

whats the pinouts/colors for the dist sensors for obd0 and obd1? hopefully that's it.
I only have the ignitor signal on right.

 

I've got a fucked OBD0-OBD1 conversion harness made from those directions in the driveway, it won't crank either. I've got a working harness to compare those directions to - actually compared the A plug pinouts for PHiZ, which are all correct, but have been too busy to finish the job.

As far as dizzy wiring goes, let me comment... my wiring colors (D16A1 harness) did not match up either. I figured out which wires were TDC, CYP, and CRANK and pinned them accordingly... I think CRANK pins are either correct or do not matter... I originally had a CYP code, reverse the pins and it went away... base timing is jacked forward ~45 degrees, so I reverse TDC pins and it starts clicking CYP code... re-reverse CYP pins and no codes, timing is what it should be.

Kinda a long explaination, but if you get it running and have dizzy codes and/or wierd base timing don't even worry about it.

 

Does anyone have a link to a working schematic for this conversion? I was going to try the one that is linked but after reading this I don't want to risk it.

-Ryan

 

I'll have it up on PGMFI in a day or so, just have to figure out what it is first.

 

CKP - Crank Angle Sensor
CYP - Cylinder Position Sensor
TDC - Top Dead center

*The wire colors match up but the sensors do not*

OBD0

B10 ORANGE CKP
B12 WHITE CKP
C3 ORA/BLU TDC
C4 WHT/BLU TDC
C1 BLU/GRN CYP
C2 BLU/WHT CYP

OBD1

B11 ORN CYP input
B12 WHT CYP signal
B13 ORN/BLU TDC input
B14 WHT/BLU TDC signal
B15 BLU/GRN CKP input
B16 BLU/YEL CKP signal

The eacv doesnt make anymore noise.
So after doing this, there is still no spark. I'm checking spark with a timing gun, it works right?
Now im thinking im missing a ignition or ground somewhere...

 

a few things are off on kurts page, double check your wiring with the hasport page http://www.hasport.com/Tech/Wr...1.htm, I did this conversion on my car, the only code i'm throwing is the ELD

 

HASport has wiring diagrams up?

Sweet deal, sweet link, and thanks for your input.

 

This is basically the final version of what I used dropping an OBD1 b17a1 into an OBD0 Integra GS. If it's helpful, great. However, I'm not completely done with the tutorial, so it is subject to change, although the car runs...

Also, thanks to J. Davis for all his help.

http://www.crimethink.org/gsr_swap/b17a1.html

Numbered in the zig-zag method, as it's the most popular. OBD1 plugs from behind (the wire sid), OBD0 from the front (the pin side).

I used a multi-meter to "tone out" and check continuity of all the connections. Also, did you solder the harness or make butt connectors? Alos, either me or j.davis can reccomend someone to do a harness for you, if you just get fed up with it.

-PHiZ


Modified by PHiZ at 5:56 PM 8/8/2003

 

Using a wiring harness adapter and a p28 with some things disabled, I can run the car, but get the revlimit at 3400-3500. My error is the CKP.

The catch on this is that i'm using the p28 to run my 87 teg with vac advance, D16a1 engine.

If i can get around this error, the posibilities are endless.

 

A22 appears to be the white wire, while A21 appears to be the fat white wire, just from a notation I made in pencil on my printout, that is something I will put in the final version.

Also, there maybe be subtle differences between the P61 and other OBD1 pinouts, all I am guaranteeing is that that pinout worked for my application.

-PHiZ


Modified by PHiZ at 12:07 AM 8/9/2003

 

My problem is that an obd1 car has 3 things:

CYL
TDC
CRANK

The OBD0 car has:

CYL
TDC (combined, these make up the Crank angle sensor)

The 87 teg does not have a separate CKP signal..in fact the stock ecu does not get this signal. I'm sondering if i can combine or just send the signal form one of the other sensors to fool it in to running properly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spunkster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My problem is that an obd1 car has 3 things:

CYL
TDC
CRANK

The OBD0 car has:

CYL
TDC (combined, these make up the Crank angle sensor)

The 87 teg does not have a separate CKP signal..in fact the stock ecu does not get this signal. I'm sondering if i can combine or just send the signal form one of the other sensors to fool it in to running properly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Spunkster: run 2 wires directly from the obd1 ecu

B15 BLU/GRN CKP input
B16 BLU/YEL CKP signal

 

for obd0 with power steering

P/S oil pressure switch

OBD0 ----&gt; OBD1
B19 ------&gt; B8

I'm pretty sure it's the damn distributor that bad on my car.

 

Yeah, I had that done originally...the problem is What do I run them to?

in teh engine bay...that sensor does not exist.

I have an extra OBD2 distributor sitting here and another partially complete distributor.

I have 2 options:

1) Put the partial distrubutor in place of the OEM Crank Angle sesor (d16a1 sensor only uses CYL and TDC for this) on the exhaust cam and see what happens after running the correct wires to the ecu.

2) Put the complete distrubutor in place of the vac advance ditributor and run the apropriate wires to the ecu...etc and pray. With this setup, I will actually have the ability to control timing on this ancient engine.

The problem with both of these, is that I dont' know if any of these will fit this head or the cam slots.

 

let me rephrase. Run the CKP wires directly from the ecu to the distributor

B15 BLU/GRN CKP from ecu to BLU/GRN dist. wire
B16 BLU/YEL CKP from ecu to BLU/YEL dist. wire

 

Still don't think you understand how the OBD0 d16a1 is setup. There is no sesnor on it that has th CKP signal. If it were that easy I would not have a problem. I'm going to see how hard it is to mount an OBD2/1 distributor and use the correct sensors for the ecu.

Very sunbaked from being at Buttonwillow all day and at Battle all night.


Modified by Spunkster at 3:17 PM 8/10/2003

 

Well Everyone that had doubts, I got it to work. It's a little different, but it does work. This is not supported by Hondata in any way, but it will work with Hondata.

I will post pictures later when i have a minute.

Boost tables for fuel can now be added on the 86-87 using an OBD1 ecu to run the car. So far the only error I'm getting is the VSS (vehicle speed sensor, because there isn't one). The car is also running in open loop, since I don't have a 4 wire O2 sensor hooked up.

Brief description of what I finally came up with:

1) completely removed the stock crank angle sensor (exhaust cam)
2) in it's place i put in an OBD2 distributor (i did not have an obd1 one)
3) I wired the CYP and TDC sensor wired directly from the harness plug to the distributor wires
4) I then had to run separate wires from the distributor to the ecu for CKP sensor
THE DISTRIBUTOR IS NOT PROVIDING SPARK OF ANY KIND

the reason i did not use the distributor for spark yet is becasuse I could not get it to work...I tried the distributor on both the intake and exhaust cam and since i had to use the stock distributor for spark at the moment this is all hooked to the exhaust cam.

I will post more later when i get home

 

As far as the harness woes, HASport directions do not mention all the pinouts I have on the working harness in front of me. If others have gotten the HASport directions to work I am willing to ASSume they are inconsequential. For the ELD problem, OBD0 B19 to OBD1 D10 cures all ills.

Geoshitties directions have proven correct for all pinouts except the distributor. Compare the geoshitties directions labelled with ** (meaning dizzy wiring) to the HASport directions, I believe the HASport directions should supercede - I'm off to verify that in the next ten minutes.

Goddamn, I figured one of you women would have solved the problem for me by now. How dare you peons make me do five minutes work!

lol


Modified by J. Davis at 2:11 AM 8/11/2003

 

Not all OBD0 are the same
http://b16a.honda-perf.org/wiringb16.htm

You don't need a eld to run your car so if you dont have it, **** it. 88-91 civic/crx have eld on B19, for 90-91 integras B19 is the P/S pressure switch

And yes I have mentioned the distributor mix up and the p/s switch above. The only difference with the "geoshitties" pinout and the hasport pinout is the distributor. I would have verified a working pinout but I'm still waiting on a good working distributor. How dare you ignore my posts above

 

I tried for a few hours to get het distributor working, but I must be doing something wrong. so for now this is what i have:

 

Yup, anyone with funky geoshitties harness, swap OBD1 pins B13 and B15, swap OBD1 pins B14 and B16. CYP &lt;--&gt; CKP mixage.

I just now noticed everybody else has already gone through this. I don't get enough sleep.

 

Uhm, Spunkster, those zip ties are dead sexy

But, why are you going to defile the poor 1G Integra with a filthy ITR engine?? I swear, D16's get no love.

 

Use my pinout if you guys haven't already figured it out. http://www.boosted.org/obd0_to_1.php My car has been running this conversion for a couple of years now, no problem.