i F-ed up!!
just venting a little here i was about to go pay off the rest ofmy turbo and wahbaaaam 9999 rpm is what my VAFC read tick tick tick is all i hear can anyone recomend a good set of valves?
pstreck u obvciosly do not know what the hell yer talkin about so just quit talkin i am in a pissed off mood and dont wanna hear yer crap. someone please explain to him why when u misshift it can ove rev the rev limter.........oh yah does anyone recomend any aftermarket valves ,valve springs and retainers (for a turbo car)
wow... again... i feel for ya... maybe you and john should spring for new motors... as far as valves go... if you are going to do it now, go oversized... ferrera or some other good name brand... your better off doing a fully built head with killer cams and stay NA instead of turbo now...
springs an retainers... and thing HD, like portflow outer with itr inner or full toda... and retainers.. go titanium...
springs an retainers... and thing HD, like portflow outer with itr inner or full toda... and retainers.. go titanium...
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Sorry to hear man...
First things first though...are you sure theyre bent???
They could be just wayyy out of adjustment...have you tried that yet? Just in case, its worth a shot...it would make your day if thats all it was ya know?
Good luck!!!
First things first though...are you sure theyre bent???
They could be just wayyy out of adjustment...have you tried that yet? Just in case, its worth a shot...it would make your day if thats all it was ya know?
Good luck!!!
The rev limiter works by cutting off fuel when you get to it, but that's only as you rev the engine, or when you are accelerating when the speed of the car does not exceed the speed for a gear.
When you misshift, say from 4-3 (you were intending to really do a 4-5 shift), the speed of the car is exceeding the redline, and even though the limiter is engaged once you get past the redline, it is only a fuel cutoff and the movement of the car will continue to accelerate the engine despite no fuel.
Hope that made sense.
Oh and sorry about the valves, but I guess you can look at this as a chance to upgrade... although I do recall you had some pretty nice stuff already...
When you misshift, say from 4-3 (you were intending to really do a 4-5 shift), the speed of the car is exceeding the redline, and even though the limiter is engaged once you get past the redline, it is only a fuel cutoff and the movement of the car will continue to accelerate the engine despite no fuel.
Hope that made sense.
Oh and sorry about the valves, but I guess you can look at this as a chance to upgrade... although I do recall you had some pretty nice stuff already...
if the rev limiter is engaged how did you go past it?
As for the your valves, I'd first check the lash and to make sure everything is to spec, and then do a compression test. If everything is to spec and you still hear ticking and compression is off then you most likely have a bent valve. I've known a few people in the same situation as you who've misshifted and only thrown their lash out of spec so keep your fingers crossed.
if you misshift let say to 3rd instead of going to 5th... your rpms let say for arguments sake go to 11000 thats mechanical... wheels spinning that fast will make the motor spin that fast... an electrical cuttoff wont stop it
wow... again... i feel for ya... maybe you and john should spring for new motors... as far as valves go... if you are going to do it now, go oversized... ferrera or some other good name brand... your better off doing a fully built head with killer cams and stay NA instead of turbo now...
springs an retainers... and thing HD, like portflow outer with itr inner or full toda... and retainers.. go titanium...
springs an retainers... and thing HD, like portflow outer with itr inner or full toda... and retainers.. go titanium...
Oh, and this is for everyone! BE CAREFUL, seems like everyone and their mother is misshifting and blowing their engines these days! I'm think I'm gonna take this as a sign and not go to that test & tune tonight!
pstreck u obvciosly do not know what the hell yer talkin about so just quit talkin i am in a pissed off mood and dont wanna hear yer crap. someone please explain to him why when u misshift it can ove rev the rev limter.........oh yah does anyone recomend any aftermarket valves ,valve springs and retainers (for a turbo car)
Get valves that tend to bend more than break.. (similar to stock ones).. several people have bent them and the head and motor survived.. some went with titanium and when they broke.. well.. the holes were big enough to pull the valve stem out of the pistons... or block...
get whatever tends to bend instead of break, at same time get the good stuff..
Hi,
Sorry to hear man, I too know the pain of bent valves. In my case it was slipping cam gears on a brand new not even broken in yet motor
Kind of a question/statement, the stock rev limiter is a fuel cut, right? Someone mentioned that it was an ignition cut, but I think the ignition does not cut, only the fuel. This is why you need to be VERY CAREFUL with N20 and hitting the stock rev limiter. If you do, the fuel stops flowing, but N20 still flows! You can go VERY LEAN and burn or break stuff quickly. Imagine the spark still lights what's in the combustion chamber (mostly n20), and you can see how it go badly.
You can get an ignition limiter, such as with some MSD models, this cuts spark. Not sure if it works in conjunction with the stock fuel shutoff or not.
As for valves, check and make sure as stated. For FI woudn't you want stainless steel for heat resistance? Someone posted that stock valves are stainless, but I mean the shiny ones that are heavier, but more durable? For N/A, I went with lighter valves (ITR), but for FI wouldn't durability be more important? Ones that bend makes sense, kind of like the idea behind Endyn pistons...
Thoughts?
FB
Sorry to hear man, I too know the pain of bent valves. In my case it was slipping cam gears on a brand new not even broken in yet motor
Kind of a question/statement, the stock rev limiter is a fuel cut, right? Someone mentioned that it was an ignition cut, but I think the ignition does not cut, only the fuel. This is why you need to be VERY CAREFUL with N20 and hitting the stock rev limiter. If you do, the fuel stops flowing, but N20 still flows! You can go VERY LEAN and burn or break stuff quickly. Imagine the spark still lights what's in the combustion chamber (mostly n20), and you can see how it go badly.
You can get an ignition limiter, such as with some MSD models, this cuts spark. Not sure if it works in conjunction with the stock fuel shutoff or not.
As for valves, check and make sure as stated. For FI woudn't you want stainless steel for heat resistance? Someone posted that stock valves are stainless, but I mean the shiny ones that are heavier, but more durable? For N/A, I went with lighter valves (ITR), but for FI wouldn't durability be more important? Ones that bend makes sense, kind of like the idea behind Endyn pistons...
Thoughts?
FB
u just dont want my car faster than yer lsR
wow... again... i feel for ya... maybe you and john should spring for new motors... as far as valves go... if you are going to do it now, go oversized... ferrera or some other good name brand... your better off doing a fully built head with killer cams and stay NA instead of turbo now...
springs an retainers... and thing HD, like portflow outer with itr inner or full toda... and retainers.. go titanium...
springs an retainers... and thing HD, like portflow outer with itr inner or full toda... and retainers.. go titanium...
dont werry about it guys its all under controll!! i jus bought a compression tester and it doesnt sound that bad anymore.
i didnt check it yet this heat is jus killing me
but i was about a quart low from the 9999 rpm blast so i put a qwart in there and its not as bad anymore i will let u guys know about the results on the compression test shortly
oh and by the way good point about the fuel cutoff with n2o
[Modified by Y2kGsR, 5:18 PM 8/9/2001]
i didnt check it yet this heat is jus killing me
but i was about a quart low from the 9999 rpm blast so i put a qwart in there and its not as bad anymore i will let u guys know about the results on the compression test shortly
oh and by the way good point about the fuel cutoff with n2o
[Modified by Y2kGsR, 5:18 PM 8/9/2001]
Get valves that tend to bend more than break.. (similar to stock ones)
a mis shift at the track gave me such a lopy idle i didn't know if i could get home but a valve adjustment brought it back to 95% of it's former self
hey bro sorry to hear that. i dont exactly no where u live but its in jersey right? if your in norther jersey theres a place called IMP racing in clifton. if you can get there theyll hook you up, they specialize in high performance cars and obvioulsy engines ie.. rx 7's, supras, tegs all that ****. same thing happened to my friend and they hooked him up for under a 1000 for everything. anyhoo just trying to help
thats the funiest thing i have ever heard!!
but the compression was consistant accros the board about 5 lower than the last test though
but the compression was consistant accros the board about 5 lower than the last test though
Hopefully it works out...Missed shifts are about as fun as soccer cleats to the nuts.



hope it all goes well. Good luck