I know I lost some low end power and gained some high end....but it just feels like i lost power in general.

It doesnt pull the same and feels much slower

thanks

 

Try resetting the ECU.Some people say it doesnt help but it doesnt hurt either.

 

installation error? look it over....

 

HAHAHA, installation error, anyway....You should reset your ECU, but your going to lose some bottem end. The CAI is for more top end then bottem end. Just incase you haven't had your Prelude for a while or haven't seen ant dyno plots on it.

 

resetting my ecu will make my car faster?!?!?!?! damn i'll be back......rrrrriiight. if his car is slower then he musta fuct somethin up somehwhere along the line. resetting his ecu isnt gonna make his car faster overall, like he stated in his post that u must not of read.

 

He IS OBDII mind you... it's supose to be an "itelligent" ECU and learn from changes in it's enviroment but, I'm not sure it would help that much.

 

resetting the ECU may allow you to feel a little bit of a push for a week or so. But as stated above, OBD2 is a "learning" ECU and will eventually make the corrections necessary to get back to where it wants to be. That's why you hear that mods tend to be more effective on obd1 cars.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by symba &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">resetting the ECU may allow you to feel a little bit of a push for a week or so. But as stated above, OBD2 is a "learning" ECU and will eventually make the corrections necessary to get back to where it wants to be. That's why you hear that mods tend to be more effective on obd1 cars.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly what he said

This is also the reason some people will put a switch on OBD2 ECU's so that it will have no memory thus never "Learning" anything.

 

There are a few write ups about doing the OBDII Walk around
try hitting up http://www.NTPOG.org I believe they have a write up on how to do the walk around...if not I think you can just get the harness, and a (Correct me if Im wrong) a P13 ECU which is OBDI (correct?)
If I got the ECU number wrong sorry, but that is another option you can do other than a walk around
Catz
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=567799
see this thread to see about ECU's.....and the P13 is the stock H22 ECU (according to the origional post)

 

the whole OBII doesnt do anything for bolt ons and OBD1 is much better etc is a load of crap and a myth

ever visit the ITR forum?

low end on a 2.2l NA 4cyl is retarded and not worth pursuing, you can either make power with displacement or with breathing at high rpms, if you want low end buy a diesel pickup truck

the "slow" feeling is most likely the crapping throttle response that cold air intakes with lots of bends are known for

 

the throttle response with the aem's are known to be less then thrilling.

the 3inch piping also does not help on the 5th gen's. i believe the perfect fit would be the 4th gen. piping which is 2.75inches.

many of the itr guys with aem cai's also experience the same throttle response with their 3inch aem's.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nick M &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the whole OBII doesnt do anything for bolt ons and OBD1 is much better etc is a load of crap and a myth</TD></TR></TABLE>
finally, someone says the same as i've been saying...

 

I would never get an AEM intake. If i got one I would get the JDM Type S intake box with a K&N airfilter. You gain power throughout the RPM band.

Aftermarket does not always mean better.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bgod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">many of the itr guys with aem cai's also experience the same throttle response with their 3inch aem's.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think thats more of a result of the length, the actual distance the air has to travel from the filter to the TB, it takes alot of air to fill up a 3" diameter pipe traveling that far through the bends etc

I had an almost straight CAI on my H22a'd accord 3", the throttle response was awesome

the J's racing intake for the ITR, is enormous, much much wider than 3", but its also much shorter and tapers to the TB

 

 

i'm happy with my AEM CAI. I didn't really notice the bottom end loss, and definitely notice the top end pulling harder. but if i had to do it differently, i might go with SRI and cold air box, with some strategic venting in the front end, maybe a custom vent running from the fog light assembly, through the bumper, into the CA box.

 

also make sure all your vaccum lines are in the right place, and are tight

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would never get an AEM intake. If i got one I would get the JDM Type S intake box with a K&N airfilter. You gain power throughout the RPM band.

Aftermarket does not always mean better.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This guy has his **** straight, OEM owns aftermarket.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would never get an AEM intake. If i got one I would get the JDM Type S intake box with a K&N airfilter. You gain power throughout the RPM band.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

prove it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nick M &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">t
if you want low end buy a diesel pickup truck

</TD></TR></TABLE>


or turbo an f22 and get the same torque curve and redline

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nick M &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

prove it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually, on the dyno, the type-s intake gains between 3 and 5 lb-ft of torque below vtec, and above the crossover, pretty much behaves like the stock intake.
Part throttle response on it is awesome, though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would never get an AEM intake. If i got one I would get the JDM Type S intake box with a K&N airfilter. You gain power throughout the RPM band.

Aftermarket does not always mean better.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nick M &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

prove it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly what I thought! Prove it.

 

Does anybody know where to get the Type S intake?

 

Does the JDM Type S intake air box fit the 4th gen ludes? or is it only for 5th gens?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nick M &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

prove it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I would if I still had the article to post it. But since I read it for myself...that is all that I need.

Best article I read was one that was in a Sport Compact Car mag approximately 2.5 years ago. It was an article about Roger Woo (or Foo, can't remember) showing that OEM parts are good enough to make the car perform well.

Since I have proven (actually, you guys have for me) that forced induction and other aftermarket upgrades to the Honda engines are not reliable or really feasable and a waste of money, I put these two ideas together to mod my car wisely.

My main objective is to make the car breathe more efficiently and produce as much power throughout the rpm band, not at one segment of the RPM band. I am not concerned about high HP figures or drag racing times. My car will spend it's time on the track and autoXs. This is the reason i will only put on a Type S air intake box.

If this isn't your objective for your car, I would go with the AEM intake. Besides, putting an AEM intake in your sig will look better.