I can't find the post I made about this. I have a 99 ls, and I was wondering which header would be better? I am going to get the N1, and maybe a cat. Also, would ceramic be better than polished? Where is the cheapest place to find a header? And how much does a cat run? Thanks.

 

I know many here will recommend the 4-2-1 over the 4-1 due to its more streetable power curve. I have the 4-1 on my LS and love it. It "feels" stronger. It hangs a bit low. So if your car is dropped more that 1.5" it might dent. I try to do as much open track events and auto-x practice events as I can. So I don't mind driving my car near redline for long periods of time. That's why I got the 4-1.
Good luck in your choice.

Will

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraBoy04 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can't find the post I made about this. I have a 99 ls, and I was wondering which header would be better? I am going to get the N1, and maybe a cat. Also, would ceramic be better than polished? Where is the cheapest place to find a header? And how much does a cat run? Thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well I think between ceramic and stainless it just comes down to bling factor.

The cheapest place i have found for a header is http://www.optauto.com

 

What do you mean by more streetable power curve? And I rarely ever redline. So I'm still not sure which one has better gains.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraBoy04 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What do you mean by more streetable power curve? And I rarely ever redline. So I'm still not sure which one has better gains.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think he meant it suits him better for his daily driving habits. The 4-1 design gives him the most power where he wants it, and he likes it.

 

Word.

I think the 4-1 is good only if you are playing at the higher rpms. If it is not driven up there than the 4-2-1 is a better bet. It seems from reading around here, that the Comptech is the one to get. It's pricey though. As far as the coating, I got the ceramic, but I don't care too much about looks.

 

i had a 4-2-1 ceramic DC it got smashed so i figured it was time to move onto better things so i went with the 4-1 comptech header and i like it alot more then that DC crap

 

anyone here use kamikaze headers? i've heard some good things about them and i'm planning on replacing my OEM ones soon anyway because of weird noises anyway

 

DUD if u want Mad hp gains i recomend SMSP headers. Ive seen those things give 30 hp alone. They come in 4-2-1 and 4-1, and are amazing. But this is for the big spender.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stolenhubcabs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone here use kamikaze headers? i've heard some good things about them and i'm planning on replacing my OEM ones soon anyway because of weird noises anyway</TD></TR></TABLE>


that kamikazie header is optimal for super charged applications, but it isnt worth a damn on N/A setups.

 

The 4-2-1 will give you gains more in the midrange, but a well-designed 4-2-1 will gain equally well across all parts of the rev range (ie, the Comptech 4-2-1 is a good example). The 4-1 will give you gains more in the high end. For the B18B1 with its 7000 rpm redline I think the 4-2-1 is almost always a better choice. For the B18C1 with its 8000 rpm redline I think its definately a tossup... do you want a daily-driver power-adder or a drag-race boost?

My choices:
4-2-1: Comptech
4-1: OEM JDM ITR 4-1 Header or DC Sports replica

Ceramic or Stainless? Ceramic will cost less, Stainless will last longer. Polished/stainless will change colors after use. To "steel blue" if you're lucky, or bronze, its always different. Ceramic stays shiny but usually starts falling apart after a few years.

I'd go with polished/stainless steel, and I'd make sure the whole system is of that material. Some exhausts have a polished canister and coated steel tubing which is crap.

Ben

 

well, 4-2-1 or 4-1 should all depend on wut u want, but as for ceramin or stainless steel, dont get ceramic, they can crack, and etc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skribblah &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


that kamikazie header is optimal for super charged applications, but it isnt worth a damn on N/A setups.</TD></TR></TABLE>

oh, that makes perfect sense because the person who first told me about them has a supercharged gsr, he was talking about how they were so much better than his old DC's, ha

 

maybe try ebay you might find a good deal
bomz hi flo 50 bucks shipped
4-1 hi end power
4-2-1 lo-mid end power
and for your final question i like how polished headers discolor

 

if youre not going to be hitting the redline a lot get a stainless 4-2-1 header. i got a greddy and love it always good deals on headers in the best buys forum and on http://www.groupbuycenter.com .

 

didnt read what everyone had to say but
Type 1 Racing 4-2-1:

Longer Primaries for a little extra top end.
4-2-1 Design for mid power and Ground Clearance.
2.5" Collector.
Near Stock Header Length (JDM Header Length).
Can be found @ http://www.ipsracing.com or http://www.aj-racing.com

 

EDIT I vouch for GREDDY one peice 4-2-1 headers for a b18b engine.

I mainly shift around 3-4k in the city but found myself shifting around 5-6k after the header upgrade.




Modified by IntEGNYC at 1:00 PM 8/6/2003

 

I never really redline my car. The most I shift at is 6500. How much does the Comptech run? And are all DC crap? Which header would go good with the N1? And do you guys have high flow cats, or just the stock ones? Thanks.

 

i just put a dc 421 on my b18b and i cant really feel that much of a diff over 3500 rpm but under it you feel it pick up a bit more

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraBoy04 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What do you mean by more streetable power curve? And I rarely ever redline. So I'm still not sure which one has better gains.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I hate to sound like an ***.......

If you hardly ever redline, then why are you getting a header and exhaust? If you want more power, just rev it up higher than you usually do. If you are not using all the power you have now....why add more?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraBoy04 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I never really redline my car. The most I shift at is 6500. How much does the Comptech run? And are all DC crap? Which header would go good with the N1? And do you guys have high flow cats, or just the stock ones? Thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I just ordered DC 4-2-1 and am expecting them to arrive tomorrow for install this weekend. I've heard mostly good things about DC and it was reccommended to go with my Apex'i N1 catback.

 

Comptech 4-2-1
DC Sports

 

Comptech is very expensive, I think it's around $500 or $400, go on to their website and find out. Most headers have a 2 inch collector, the other option you have would be a 2.5 collector. But you don't need the huge collector unless you are going f/i and have a 2.5 or 3 inch exhaust(which n1 is not).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Frito1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Comptech 4-2-1
DC Sports </TD></TR></TABLE>

i keep seeing that everyone in here thinks DC is bad but don't see any reasons given, just a bunch of thumbs down. why is DC the anti-christ of headers?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sliminem &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i keep seeing that everyone in here thinks DC is bad but don't see any reasons given, just a bunch of thumbs down. why is DC the anti-christ of headers?</TD></TR></TABLE>

They're just known as being a "generic" header. They have no anti-reversion properties like the Comptech. They also have a 2" collector. The ceramic ones have been known to crack at the welds.