what brakes are you guys usin in street prepared

 

stock with steel lines and better pads. No other mods are allowed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mipawi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what brakes are you guys usin in street prepared</TD></TR></TABLE>

well, if you are refering to brake pads, i suggest cobalt gt-sports. excellent feel and modulation, although takes half a run to get them up to temp.

 

Stock everything except for pads which are Hawk HP+. I bleed the brakes regularly (at least twice a month) to keep a real strong pedal feel.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MaddMatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock with steel lines and better pads. No other mods are allowed.</TD></TR></TABLE>
In prepared category you're allowed to run any type of rotor given that its metal and its the same dimension as stock.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RAB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
In prepared category you're allowed to run any type of rotor given that its metal and its the same dimension as stock.</TD></TR></TABLE>

And it's just easier to run a stock rotor; you won't be gaining much from a slotted or drilled rotor on an auto-x course.

 

i run FSP in my 98 civic DX.. still have stock brakes.. planning on getting brembo blanks and some sort of other pad besides stock.. still have an extra set of stock pads in the box.

 

Street Prepared is a testament to the fact that you don't need big brake kits for autocrosing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aron Parsons &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

And it's just easier to run a stock rotor; you won't be gaining much from a slotted or drilled rotor on an auto-x course.</TD></TR></TABLE>
True just stating the rule.

 

What Geretol said.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In prepared category you're allowed to run any type of rotor given that its metal and its the same dimension as stock.</TD></TR></TABLE>

And the thread topic is:
what brakes in street prepared

 

THis year they allowed SP cars to run cross drilled/slotted rotors. I can not remember the limitations (ie same size as stock, etc.).

As for what to run, stock rotors, good pads (carbotech/cobalt/Hawk), goodridge SS lines, good quality fluid with a good bleed is more than enough.

 

Does anyone make an OEM size rotor that is either heavier or has better (curved) vanes to pump air better?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bill Hook &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does anyone make an OEM size rotor that is either heavier or has better (curved) vanes to pump air better?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you seriously having trouble with brake fade in autocross, that you're willing to take on more unspring mass?

I run Axxis Ultimates in stock, and they bite harder with a little heat. But I can't even get them that warm on an autocross course.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bill Hook &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does anyone make an OEM size rotor that is either heavier or has better (curved) vanes to pump air better?</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is definitely unnecessary.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mph6563 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Are you seriously having trouble with brake fade in autocross, that you're willing to take on more unspring mass?

I run Axxis Ultimates in stock, and they bite harder with a little heat. But I can't even get them that warm on an autocross course.</TD></TR></TABLE>


No, just a rhetorical question with an eye toward racing.

I don't really want more mass, just find some rotors that would cool better than stock.

FWIW, I've cracked 10.3" rotors on the street in years past.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bill Hook &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

FWIW, I've cracked 10.3" rotors on the street in years past.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds like a product quality or driver problem. If you need more brake cooling install some brake ducts.

FWIW You question looked far from rhetorical.

 

thanks guys

 

I will second the recommendation for Axxis Ultimates for an autocross car. Cheap and they bite great. Excellent modulation (release) and very linear with temp and pedal pressure.

I have not tried them in very cold weather, and I usually drag the brakes with my left foot going up to the line to get a little heat in them just out of habit. They still bite better cold and hot than some Ferodos I used to use, stock pads (Civic, Miata, and BMW), Pagids, MetalManglers, and R4S pads.

As others said, fade characteristics are irrelevant for autocross use, unless you get 5-10 continuous hotlaps on an autocross course (did that once and caught VGX pads on fire. NEVER buy VGX pads)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bill Hook &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does anyone make an OEM size rotor that is either heavier or has better (curved) vanes to pump air better?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Brake ducts.

Edit: dammit I'm slow...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Geratol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Sounds like a product quality or driver problem. If you need more brake cooling install some brake ducts.

FWIW You question looked far from rhetorical.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Well, consider all those folks doing upgrades to 11.1" rotors that they probably don't need either.

Truth told, the ITR could probably still use the same rotor as a non-ITR.

Need often has very little to do with things, unlike want.

Better rotors would be cheaper and easier than trying to construct ducting.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bill Hook &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Better rotors would be cheaper and easier than trying to construct ducting. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Dryer tubing and zip ties = cheap

New Rotors = less cheap

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bill Hook &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and easier than trying to construct ducting. </TD></TR></TABLE>

My "ducts" are 3" home depot dryer tubing, and a pack of zip ties that i bought 3 years ago (amazing how far a pack of 100 will go). Total cost = $15. And if i rip them up lawnmowing (which i have) its another $15 to replace them.

RJ

 

Where do you duct FROM to get an ambient intake?

Cutting the bumper doesn't seem cheap or easy.

 

Cutting the bumper is the cheapest and easiest because all you need is a sharp cutting object. However depending on what type of competition you compete in that isn't always an option. Many people choose to duct from the frontal radiator area or anywhere below the bumper. If you do a search I'm sure you will find pictures to give you an idea.

I personally don't use brake ducts because the brakes never get hot enough from autocrossing to require additional cooling.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bill Hook &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where do you duct FROM to get an ambient intake?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Use existing holes meant for foglights or turn signals you're not using. Or duct from either side of the radiator. I've done it both ways, with positive results.