Failed Emission test, what went wrong?
I failed my emissions test and my reading are:
HydroCarbons (standard is 0.80) I got 1.83
Carbon Monoxide (standard is 15.0) I got 74.2
And after the test were done my car overheat too.
HELP ME OUT GUYS WHAT WENT WRONG.
I have a 95 GSR Integra
here's the specs:
1.) Skunk2 ecu with P28
2.) AEM fuel rail with B&M fpr
3.) Stock injectors
4.) Skunk 2 manifold
5.) DC 4-1 headers
5.) aem short ram intake
6.) jdm 5 zigen exhaust catback
7.) JUN stage 2 head package
8.) MSD whole set-up (ignition box, coil, cap, wires, etc.)
9.) Fluidyne radiator
10.) Fal dual fans
11.) Apex Vfac
12.) Stock buttom end
Help me out guys, I appreciate it
HydroCarbons (standard is 0.80) I got 1.83
Carbon Monoxide (standard is 15.0) I got 74.2
And after the test were done my car overheat too.
HELP ME OUT GUYS WHAT WENT WRONG.
I have a 95 GSR Integra
here's the specs:
1.) Skunk2 ecu with P28
2.) AEM fuel rail with B&M fpr
3.) Stock injectors
4.) Skunk 2 manifold
5.) DC 4-1 headers
5.) aem short ram intake
6.) jdm 5 zigen exhaust catback
7.) JUN stage 2 head package
8.) MSD whole set-up (ignition box, coil, cap, wires, etc.)
9.) Fluidyne radiator
10.) Fal dual fans
11.) Apex Vfac
12.) Stock buttom end
Help me out guys, I appreciate it
I dont know anything about emissions but those numbers seem outrageous compared to the norm...What would happen if you dropped fuel pressure aton right before you went in??? Would that help?
gmoore
gmoore
most afterarket programs read only off maps with no sensor feedback. this will generally run the ecu rich (how's your gas mileage?) and fail emissions. You can try plugging a stock ecu back in, setting fuel pressure back to stock, and leaning out your afc settings. That should make you pass as long as there is no load being put on the engine (neutral rev). I dont think it will pass on the rollers.
last resort, pay more at a croocked shop.
last resort, pay more at a croocked shop.
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ive seen this feul additive in store before. They claim that your car will pass emisions, guaranteed. I've never tried it because i don't have to pass emisions, but maybe you should keep an eye out for it.
it's the ecu. i have a 94 gsr. same thing happened with me. the new ecu dumped too much fuel and it probably burned you 02 sensor and your cat. go back to stock ecu, buy a new cat, get a new 02 sensor and you'll pass. ofcourse that's after about $200...hope this helps....i had to learn it the hard way...
Does it smell like rotten eggs whenever you romp on it in neutral? If so the cat is gone. A new cat will help you pass but from your readings being so high it's probably the ecu or the O2 sensor. I would suggest you get a stock ecu because just replacing the 02 sensor might not work. See if you could borrow someone's or something.
like the other guys sai its your ecu , skunk 2 ecu dumps more fuel than the mugen , i had a chipped ecu when i did a pretest smog and the CO and HC where gross puluter , put your fpr back to 38-42 psi (stock gsr) ,get a new cat and o2 sensor put your timing back some 13-14 degrees , some gauranted to pass emision stuff and you are ready to go and the stock ecu
Since i have a 95 GSR which is OBD 1, I sold my stock ecu. Can i use 98-01 GSR ecu which is OBD 2 would that work. I have a lot of friends with gsr with OBD 2 ecu.
no u need a 94-95 obd1 p72 ecu or a 94-95 usspec del sol ecu or 92-93 gsr p61 you can use any of these since your obd1 , the newer 96 and up ecu will not work , put the vafc setting all back at zero if you have added fuel , a cat goes from 100-250 just go with a high flow cat like carsound or random technology , the skunk 2 mainfold is fine and is not causing high emmisions , retard the timing back a few degress , a new set of spark plug and some gaurnted to pass emmisions stuff , then go back ands test the car ,if the car fails then get the 02 sensor they are kinda expensive 150-300 , all i needed was a cat but u might need both good luck
u need to unloosen the 3 bolts holding up the distributer (no completely just so its loose ) move it back a tad , moving it forward towards the the engine firewall advance the timing , retarding the timing u move it the other way towards your self and the front of the car , best way is to get a timing light to tell exactly , or go to a auto shop and they will do it for 20 dollars or so to retard it a few degrees but i would ask friends first
youre going to spend a lot of money trying to make it pass. why not just pay the extra $20-40 at a small private owned tire/muffler shop.
ok guys i have questions again. How can u tell if it OBD1 gsr ecu 94-95 gsr to OBD 2 gsr ecu 96-01 gsr. They both have same code p72 but how can u tell.
And would a JDM GSR ECU will work on my car to pass the emission? PLease let me know guys Thanks
And would a JDM GSR ECU will work on my car to pass the emission? PLease let me know guys Thanks
ok. Looks like you got lot of things done to your car. Shuda thought about those mods to be "smog legal" before modding. Anywayz, too late for that. You would've failed the visual inspection out here in SoCal. Here's the deal, I had a silmiliar problem when I had to smog. I had DC 4-1 header ceramic header with my supercharger. My hydrocarbons(HC) were to be 70 to pass, i had around 80something when I first tested and failed. To make a long story short, I put my stock header back on, a 1/4 of a tank of gas with a bottle of octane booster with the engine as hot as possible. I went to test again and my hydrocarbon was reduced to 34! Unfortunately that was just a pre-test. I then tested for real with the car cooled down and got a barely passing 69! I think the stock header burned more of the fumes than the DC header. The fumes(HC & CM) have to burn off before it reaches the cat to get a better passing score. Also the octane booster helped reduce hydrocarbons and Carbon Minoxide. Don't worry about your cat, it's fine. Your CEL will come on if it's defective. You might wanna try leaning out your fuel and get your timing back to stock??


