I need to find a site which explains every last detail of these shocks. I can't even find a damn Tokico website so I am hoping that someone here has an unusual amount of knowledge on these. First I hate not knowing everything about the stuff on my car, second I want to put pretty stiff springs on these and want to know capacities and such.

Right now, the HPs handle my H&R Sports (340/186 for G2) quite well, and seem to be OK. They are a bit stiff, but I don't mind as long as they aren't soft hehe...
Anyway, I'm probably going to move on to some Ground Control sleeves so I can get a linear front/rear setup. This car understeers when pushed pretty badly. I'm not going to for a killer 600/900lbs set but I was thinking maybe 375/375. I have a Progress 22mm rear sway that I don't want to put on yet. I fear that the 186lbs rates in the rear of the H&R Sports are too soft for such a bar, and I may rip out the subframe. I think that rates like those with a 22mm rear sway and a beefed up front sway (I'm not changing the stock bar, but I'm going to try Addco bushings to position the bar further out) will provide some kick *** handling. So I really want to know if these shocks are going to be up to it. Note: the Tokico HPs are doing fine with my current setup. Maybe I have a slightly stiffer than usual set, but I think that they can tackle these GCs.

Also, I'm pretty much making decisions liek these after only one autocross. I am going to go up to Toledo and the NWOR section on August 19th and race again with the same setup as before. I don't want to spend money where it isn't needed. However, 340/186 seems to be very biased towards understeer and I did not some plowing in the corners.

Anyway, what are your thoughts? Think I need to slow down, or are these H&Rs not Sporty enough? Can the HPs tackle the job or am I better off using stock shocks (hehe)?

I appreciate your responses...

 

I don't have any concrete knowledge about the Tokico HP's, but I know a bit about Tokico Illuminas and autocross. IMO, the HP's are going to do ok for you, probably for the better part of a year. Even my stock shocks hung in there just fine for the better part of my first season, until they blew... But I was able to learn a lot of valuable driving lessons, and save a little $$$. Since you're just getting into autocross, your skills are going to be increasing big-time, and you might change your mind about some of the setup anyway. Soon you'll be able to tell when your shocks are the limiting factor.

BTW, I know it sounds a little extreme, but have you thought about going a bit higher with the rear spring rates? I've found the linear rate springs to be surprisingly streetable, even in the 450 lb range on a Civic. Opinions vary on the definition of "streetable" though. Something like 375/450 with a nice sized rear sway bar should give you all the oversteer you want for awhile. Might be something to think about since oversteer is a lot easier to dial OUT than IN on a FWD.

that didn't help at all did it....;-)

 

Hey chris, our rear springs are progressive right? Would you happen to know what the rate is when it's compressed. The sportlines have rates that are 171-257 in the rear. If that would be stiffer, you might want to try that if that's a cheaper alternative. Hehehe just suggestin.

Did you get 1pc lights yet?

 

fps31: I am definitely not certain about 375/375 rates. Also, I'm not trying to increase the car's oversteer characteristics as much as I want to eliminate understeering. I would like to keep the front rates within 75lbs of the rears, so I am considering 375/375; 375/ 400; 375/425 etc. I really don't want to break my back but I think the car will feel more planted, especially with the addition of the 22mm rear swaybar. Another thing, I want to go stiffer in the rear to avoid subframe tearout, so you hit the nail on the head . So you think the HPs should be able to hold up?

jonsteR: that is a good point. I'm pretty sure that H&R Sports were linear, though(?). I have become confused between H&R, Neuspeed, and Eibachs' The GCs are about $120 more than conventional springs and I think that is a worthwhile price to get a custom springrate and height adjustability.

BTW I haven't gotten 1 pieces yet. They are on my list though. Just under brakes, hoodpins and GCs

 

chris: Let me know what you go with and how it is. I just might "copy" your setup although I will be going with ST sway bars for sure.

Oh, going to an auto x event sunday, but am not gonna run (yet).

Good luck on your search for 1 pc.

What kinda of brake setup are you shooting for?

 

jon: are you going to get the front and rear bars? I'm not quite sure what to do about the front bar, yet. If you do go my same route, make sure that you get yourself out to the races so you can get the rates that you want. I think I still need at least 4-5 more before I can say "I need ___". BTW why aren't you entering your car in the autoX? If you're worried about your tires (I was) they will be perfectly fine. I used my A520s (which did very well, I might add) and there was no additional wear as far as I could see.

As for the brakes:
Brembo blanks
not sure about pads. Maybe Hawks front and AEM rears or even EBC Greens.

later

 

Chris, am going for the front and rear bars (172 @ jcwhitney before) because of the sale hehehe. Actually, am not worried about the tires because i still have the stocks which have decent life on it for back up. I just feel my car (and I) isn't ready for it yet. I have to figure out why i have soft pedal feel. I'll run as soon as i can. Also, i haven't watched an auto X here before. I was told that the style of driving that i used to watch in my country isn't the same as the ones here.

Oh yeah, saw the auto x pics of you and mojo, why didn't you have your CF hood then? Is it a class restriction?

 

Here's the Tokico website: http://www.tokicogasshocks.com/ and here's a chart on it for the HP's in a VW Golf:



And from their Q/A page:

No hard answers huh...

I have Tokico HP's in the rear and Illumina's in the front (All with Eibach Pro springs) and the car handles pretty good I think...still understeers way too much - even with the A520's. I don't have any stiffening of the rear chassis or suspension whatsoever though. Hopefully a bigger swaybar will fix that. I really miss not Auto-Xing while my integra is undergoing full transform to Race only car, but it will be worth the wait....


[Modified by Vracer111, 4:12 PM 8/9/2001]

 

jon: sorry. I cannot except any excuses. You have one week to autocross or else...
Hehe, about the hood, I had to drive 2.5 hours to get there and I don't like driving on the highway with it. I really need to drill in some pins. Then it will be all good.

Vracer111: thanks for the info. I'll check that out and shoot them an e-mail to get a specific answer.
As for the swaybar, how large are you going to go? BTW when you say "full race" I assume you mean stripped and ready to rumble. What class is that going to bump you into Street Prepared? I still haven't memorized them all.

 

>>i haven't watched an auto X here before. I was told that the style of driving that i used to watch in my country isn't the same as the ones here.<<

Where are you from? I've heard that autocrosses in other places tend to be a bit tighter. In fact, this can also vary A LOT from region to region as well. Fortunately, they like the big, fast courses around here. ;-) At the Fort Worth National Tour, the course was 1.3 miles long and I was just touching 78mph on the backstretch (it was a sphincter moment...).

>>I have Tokico HP's in the rear and Illumina's in the front (All with Eibach Pro springs) and the car handles pretty good I think...still understeers way too much<<

Can you try swapping the Illuminas to the rear? I had the Eibach Prokits with Illuminas on all 4 corners. Even with a set of Suspension Techniques sway bars, I ran my front shocks set on 2 and the rears set to 5 (full stiff). This still didn't provide the amount of oversteer I needed to be able to drift some of the tighter turns.

 

I am from the philippines. Over there they usually have drifting style autocross driving. Which means they use the hand brake a lot and spin the tires. Usually the races are in small parking lots. Over there (dunno where else) it's called slalom racing.

Chris: I'll race soon

 

Full race as in stripped to the bone with roll cage, quick release wheel, fuel cell, etc..., I'm looking to stick it in Mod D after its completed.
Here's images of how it looks now (except that the dash is the only thing in the interior now):





As far as switching the illuminas to the back, I don't think that will work as the rear and front shocks are totally different...about 2-3" in lenght difference too... I plan on taking out the Tokicos and Eibach Pro's anyways and going with Koni yellows and Eibach Race.

 

>>As far as switching the illuminas to the back, I don't think that will work as the rear and front shocks are totally different...about 2-3" in lenght difference too... <<

Yeah, I wasn't sure whether they'd be the same.

D-mod? What mods are you doing that put you there? If you run forced induction then I'd think that would put you in E-mod.

How about E-prepared? Under EP rules you can completely strip the car, do lexan windows (chop the whole top if you want), fuel cell, bolt in corner weights, roll cage, remove headlights etc., cams, porting... It's pretty open. There is a stipulation with regards to wheel sizes. Wheels have a 7 inch width and 16 inch diameter limit. But, since "non-DOT" cantilever slicks are allowed, wheel width isn't much of an issue. Weight limit is 1.05 lbs per cc displacement. Well, that's a *really* brief idea of the EP rules anyway.

 

Wow...I didn't know you had a G2. That's pretty stripped
So street prepared is a lower (less modified) class than A-F Mod, right? I remember there was a cart in F-mod without springs on the suspension. Hubs were bolted directly onto the frame. Pretty tough competition