i have just recently completed an mine me swap in my 90 hf crx.... it wont turn over! it has compression but i cant get it to turn.... im sure it is a distributor problem i have both distibutors the 88-91 si and the 92-95 ex(vtec) distributors i have been told to use the si one but im not sure.... if anyone else has done this swap before.. or knows what i can do to solve this plz help!!!!!!! thanks

 

and if you know where i can get the wiring diagram for both the distributors so that i might be able to wire my ex distributor to my si harness..... that would be great... i have searched the internet long and hard but have found nothing......

 

http://crx.honda-perf.org/arti....html

try that site. hope it helps

 

You are missing the cps sensor more than likley

Ask vtecnitrocrx at http://pub161.ezboard.com/bbseriesalternative he know this swap very well.

 

all my engine sensors are in... im getting spark..... and my valve timing is at zero.... i have seen posts of people having to advance thier timing up to 7 degrees... sounds alittle extreme to me... i just dont want to bend any valves
i would assume that if i have full compression that the valve timing would be on but i dont know guess its back to the timing light

but if anyone else has done this swap and had the same problem please advise!!

 

The D16 is a non-interference engine which means the valves will not reach the pistons so they won't get bent. Second, you shouldn't have to advance the timing to get the engine running. Your friends who have 7 degrees of advancement just to get the car running have set thier timing wrong. i.e. the belt is a tooth off of either the cam gear or the crank gear or both.

Now if you are getting spark, then your distributor is working just fine. I imagine you have replaced the water pump and timing belt w/ your swap as most do. One tooth off on the belt can mean the difference. The marks for setting TDC are different than the timing marks on the crank pulley. There are three marks for timing and one white one an inch right of those for TDC. The lone white mark is the one to line up with the arrow on the plastic cover. (I'm not questioning your knowledge here just making sure you remember everything.) The marks on the cam pulley are to be lined up level with the head and some pulleys have another mark with an arrow on the plastic cover like the crank pulley has.

ALSO IMPORTANT: To set the belt on correctly you should start down at the crank and then go up around the cam pulley w/out letting any slack happen (usually I have someone hold it at the crank) then go around the tensioner and water pump.


Brian

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BdoubleU &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The D16 is a non-interference engine which means the valves will not reach the pistons so they won't get bent.
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uhmmmmmm......... u sure about that one??? it is an interference motor and the pistons can reach the valves, hence the valve reliefs on top of the pistons...........

 

ok man.... i thank you for your time but i didnt need a timing lesson.... i need to figure out why the cylinders are not firing.... the engine has COMPLETE compression and the timing is dead on..... it is an ignition problem.... i am using the old distributor (88-91 hf/si) i know it doesnt fit... but i made it fit
my question now is... is the firing order different from the new one.... should i try to move the plugs around? just wanna drive the mini-me... tired of the beater

 

Yeah sorry about the whole timing lesson thing but alot of people forget important steps.... The firing order may indeed be the cause of your woes... I think you should find the distributor for that engine.

good luck,

Brian