Ok I've had this problem for about 3 weeks now. Once I turn the car on, regardless if the engine is warm or not (I can turn the engine off and turn it on and it will still do it), the motor bucks and hesitates the 1st 2 minutes that its on. like ill give it gas and it will do nothing and all of the sudden it will jerk foward. It has a new fuel filter, cap, rotor, and wires. Any of those wouldnt be the culprit anyways since it only does that at startup. SO it has to be something that only functions during the 1st few minutes. Im thinking IAC or TPS maybe? I am not getting any codes either. Im stumped on this. after the 2 minutes the car drives perfect.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rewsnaeht &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... Im thinking IAC or TPS maybe?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Both of these work all the time, not just at startup.

How old are your spark plugs? You got new wires & stuff, but you don't say plugs... How about Techron or some kinda injector cleaner in your gas?

How about your ECT - coolant temperature sensor? Maybe it's telling your ECM that the engine's hot when it really isn't.

 

yea newer plugs in good shape, ill try fuel cleaner but wouldnt it do it all the time if it was the fuel system?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rewsnaeht &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... but wouldnt it do it all the time if it was the fuel system?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If dirty injectors aren't spraying a really fine mist, then you get liquid droplets that haven't evaporated yet. Those are hard to ignite. Once everything warms up, even the bigger droplets evaporate before the spark.

But that still doesn't explain why you have trouble on a hot restart. Maybe it's just a combination of little things.

 

yea thats what im saying. it would be much easier to pinpoint if it only happens on cold starts, but hot starts as well.

 

clean your injectors check your timing,check your distributor,check your fuel pump and pump relay,sparkplugs and sparplug wires and fuel filter. hope it helps

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by preluder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">clean your injectors check your timing,check your distributor,check your fuel pump and pump relay,sparkplugs and sparplug wires and fuel filter. hope it helps</TD></TR></TABLE>

like i said in my post it has new cap/rotor/wires/plus/fuel filter. I recently did a timing belt change and the timing is fine. fuel pump is fine.

 

ttt

 

did you check coil and ignitor?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mmuller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you check coil and ignitor?</TD></TR></TABLE>


what could cause the coil and ignitor to not work during the 1st 2 minutes of startup?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How about your ECT - coolant temperature sensor? Maybe it's telling your ECM that the engine's hot when it really isn't.
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hello? check this too. I think all of the ect's are the same value and thread size so find one and plug it in before taking the old one out and see if thats the problem

 

Ill try that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rewsnaeht &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what could cause the coil and ignitor to not work during the 1st 2 minutes of startup?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not sure about ignitor - check a Helm book for primary & secondary coil resistances & check with an ohm-meter. If the coil is producing a weak spark, it'll have trouble igniting the charge. After 1 or 2 minutes everythings settled & under control so the mixture is easier to ignite. Lower temperatures, mixture not quite right, larger droplets, any of that stuff makes the mixture harder to ignite until the ECM gets everything under control.

A Helm book also says what resistance the ECT sensor should have at various temperatures. In case you don't have a 'known-good' one to swap.