Just F@!ed up my engine
Ok I am sooooo pissed! I just finished off my nitrous kit and took it out for a spin. The 4th time I hit it when I hit like 6500 rpm I lost power.....it kind of just bogged down so I imediatly stoped spraying and now it feels like its running on 3 cylinders. I did a compcheck with car running and when I pulled #4 cylinder plug the idle only changed slightly (every other time it just died). Did a real check and all cylinders were at about 190 -200 except #4 wich hit 105. I put a little oil in and it went up to 140. But the 1st stroke it only went uo to 60 psi and then slowly went up to 105, So my manuel is saying its a sign of bad valves. Maybe rings too? I dont know I'm really mad. I was running zex 55 shot with zex plugs and no timing change. Any Ideas? PLease help I need this car!
Man, that sux.
This isn't directed to you in particular...but why do you guys act all surprised when you mess up the motor after redlining, hitting VTEC every second of the day, adding NOS, turbo??? These engines are not made for that kind of abuse.
Honda makes great engines but they are not made to be abused the way you guys treat them. VTEC is something to be used on rare occasions. It's not intended to be used EVERYDAY. These are passenger cars...not race cars.
Am I the only one who notices this??
I guess I can't offer you any advice for this issue. The only advice I can give you is to be prepeared for engine failures and this stuff like this will continue to happen if you TRY and make the H22, or any other engine, into something it was never intended for.
Good luck
This isn't directed to you in particular...but why do you guys act all surprised when you mess up the motor after redlining, hitting VTEC every second of the day, adding NOS, turbo??? These engines are not made for that kind of abuse.
Honda makes great engines but they are not made to be abused the way you guys treat them. VTEC is something to be used on rare occasions. It's not intended to be used EVERYDAY. These are passenger cars...not race cars.
Am I the only one who notices this??
I guess I can't offer you any advice for this issue. The only advice I can give you is to be prepeared for engine failures and this stuff like this will continue to happen if you TRY and make the H22, or any other engine, into something it was never intended for.
Good luck
everyone knows that when you race you will break stuff! No cars are really maded to be raced every day off the lot. So I am just suprised that it broke so fast!
Some people retard the timing a little for nitrous and use colder plugs. A 55 shot shouldn't have caused detonation with your set-up, unless the timing was advanced more than 17 degrees and you had fuel delivery problems. As far as the damage, it sounds like a ring or valve damage.
exactly what I think But just looking for more opinons on what could have caused it soo fast I've never heard of someone messind it up that fast before.
Was the nitrous cold? My nephew put a hole in his piston with a 200 shot on a 94 vette with cold (fresh re-fill) nitrous. It's more dense and packs a lot more oxygen when it burns.
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Yes it was can that really be what it was? I had just picked it up and the guiy told me he had it in the freezer to cool it down and pack more in it. Before I used it though I let the bottle sit on my header for a while...Iknow its ghetto but hey it works
The vette had been running nitrous for a year on a daily driver with no problems. The first time he armed the nitrous on a cold re-fill, he burned a piston. You may have been running a 75-100 shot if the nitrous was still really cold. That's why some people use bottle heaters so they can tune for the nitrous..constant pressure and temperature.
Sorry bud, you're wrong. Looks like your name is correct, too.
If you have a cold bottle, the pressure will drop, resulting in MUCH less nitrous being sprayed. Bottle heaters increase the temp, increasing the pressure, making for a more powerful and consistent spray.
If he had a cold bottle, then he was running rich...
If you have a cold bottle, the pressure will drop, resulting in MUCH less nitrous being sprayed. Bottle heaters increase the temp, increasing the pressure, making for a more powerful and consistent spray.
If he had a cold bottle, then he was running rich...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95 lude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah wich in turn would not burn up a piston </TD></TR></TABLE>
Uhmm, rich does not *burn* pistons...
rich=Fuel.
lean=air. (o2)
Which burns hotter?? air.
Uhmm, rich does not *burn* pistons...
rich=Fuel.
lean=air. (o2)
Which burns hotter?? air.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95 lude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was using a dry kit so where is my hundred bucks. I'll give you my adress</TD></TR></TABLE>
Modified by Cottonwoodz at 11:41 PM 7/29/2003
Modified by Cottonwoodz at 11:41 PM 7/29/2003
sounds like new rings are in order. Was this a dry or wet or dp setup? Some cars do have problems with different amounts of nos getting to each cylinder in the first two types. Like the one closest to the inlet recieves more then another one. I haven't heard about this happening in along time, but it does happen.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95 lude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was using a dry kit so where is my hundred bucks. I'll give you my adress</TD></TR></TABLE>
So your telling me that the ZEX Dry kit dont have a Fuel jet..?
Modified by Cottonwoodz at 11:48 PM 7/29/2003
So your telling me that the ZEX Dry kit dont have a Fuel jet..?
Modified by Cottonwoodz at 11:48 PM 7/29/2003
Burning rich actually causes the motor to run a little cooler. This is why in limp mode you run richer and the motor bogs more.
Running leaner creates hotter combustions and is more likely to detonate if not tuned properly.
Running leaner creates hotter combustions and is more likely to detonate if not tuned properly.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cottonwoodz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok double or nutin, you were still running lean.. And burnt the damn piston up..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok you got me there that has to be what happened but I dont understand. My fuel system except fuel rail and pressure reg are stock and at stock settings. Maybe when I had ignition probs the mechanic just put the distributer on the head and didnt set the timing??? I dont know still wondering how this could have happened the first time
</TD></TR></TABLE>Ok you got me there that has to be what happened but I dont understand. My fuel system except fuel rail and pressure reg are stock and at stock settings. Maybe when I had ignition probs the mechanic just put the distributer on the head and didnt set the timing??? I dont know still wondering how this could have happened the first time
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dsludefosho »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Uhmm, rich does not *burn* pistons...
rich=Fuel.
lean=air. (o2)
Which burns hotter?? air.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hence that the quote says would NOT burn up the piston
Uhmm, rich does not *burn* pistons...
rich=Fuel.
lean=air. (o2)
Which burns hotter?? air.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hence that the quote says would NOT burn up the piston
look at my sig everything was put back to stock for a valve adj. and havnt had the dyno time to finish everything else up. I dont know the bottle press. but I'm assuming it was low cause I picked up the bottle 30 min before using it. My vtec engament point is 4700 with the vafc other than that I think its it



