Which motor would be better for my 6th gen coupe? Civic TypeR or built GS-R?? Planning to keep the car all-motor. Wanna use only Honda oem parts i.e. typeR cams, pistons, valves...

 

Go at least 1.8 or go home.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecvoodoo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go at least 1.8 or go home.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Or if you go supercharger, go home.

 

b16b most def.

go out and buy a stroker kit.

or if you wanna keep it all OEM, you can use ITR crank rods and pistons, and i believe that would work, but im not sure.

 

better for a 6th gen coupe huh???... well i think the CTR motor gets better gas millage i believe... but im not 100% on that...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JUN EK9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">b16b most def.

go out and buy a stroker kit.

or if you wanna keep it all OEM, you can use ITR crank rods and pistons, and i believe that would work, but im not sure.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So...

He should buy a B16B.

Then replace the internals w/ ITR, so it'll be a 1.8.

Why...exactly...would he get the B16B rather than a built B18C? *boggle*

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JUN EK9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">b16b most def.

go out and buy a stroker kit.

or if you wanna keep it all OEM, you can use ITR crank rods and pistons, and i believe that would work, but im not sure.</TD></TR></TABLE>

might as well ge the 1.8... why would you waste your money on 1.6 motor thats cost a grip if you can get the 1.8 cheaper and get more power out of it...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkyeC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So...

He should buy a B16B.

Then replace the internals w/ ITR, so it'll be a 1.8.

Why...exactly...would he get the B16B rather than a built B18C? *boggle*</TD></TR></TABLE>
i assume he would keep the CTR pistons (even though he said to use the ITR, what a ) to have a higher CR. plus its a nice sleeper cuz the block is stamped b16b

 

and even more power if you stroke it to 2.0-2.1L

 

The B16B all the way. If you're gonna have to build the B18C it's NOT gonna be cheaper than a stock B16B. And if you do build a B16B it'll be a torque monster. Plus think about the props you'll get just for having that RARE *** motor. Me, I like being different so I would do it just for GP(getting props). That's why I have a 99 B20B because it's a rare swap here in the ATL. If I had the cash I wouldv'e gone with the B16B.

Just my .02

 

B20Bwow that is so rare. i think about every crv has that motor. and yes i know u said that SWAP is rare but inreality its just another b series swap. go home

 

hands down b18c. and for all you saying stoke the b16, why not stroke the b18c.

the c1 is cheaper off the bat and if you cant afford to rebuild right away it starts with a good bit more low end torque than the b16.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allmtr y0! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
plus its a nice sleeper cuz the block is stamped b16b</TD></TR></TABLE>
what the heck.. how does that make it a sleeper if I'm going to be opening the hood to check out that it's stamped b16b?

 

B16B
Here's why

1) From the git-go, you get the ported and polished head, better cams etc.
2)You get the better geared tranny WITH lsd. LSD is wonderful.
3)If you decide to get the B16B, you can always find yourself a GSR, Type R or LS crank and rods later on down the road. Plus you already have those wonderfully domed PCT pistons for high compression.

Compare prices: approx'ly $3500 for the B16B, and approx'ly $3000 for the GSR. The extra $500 gives you parts that are much better, plus make more power once tuned. Now if you are going to add Type R cams to a GSR motor, why the hell would you not want a B16B that has all that **** anyways. Throw in a LS crank and rods and you've got 12.5:1 compression with those PCT pistons, and that will walk the GSR.

PLUS YOU GET LSD!!!!!!!!

 

you now i agrtee with u on some of the things u say. but it really depends on the application the guys is going... he never said if he was going all motor or boost. if he was going all motor then your way would be optimal. but if he was going boost, then b18c is the way to go. teh compression you are talking about is not really streetable to the everyday joe. i know there are soem people onhere that ar liek i have 12:1 compression with boost and i drive on the street everyday. yea but they probably have a azz load more money dumped into the ingnition sytem to keep from detonating. i personally woult not choose b16b only cuz i am going boosted. but im sure there are people that like to be different

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WAFFLES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B16B
Here's why

1) From the git-go, you get the ported and polished head, better cams etc.
2)You get the better geared tranny WITH lsd. LSD is wonderful.
3)If you decide to get the B16B, you can always find yourself a GSR, Type R or LS crank and rods later on down the road. Plus you already have those wonderfully domed PCT pistons for high compression.

Compare prices: approx'ly $3500 for the B16B, and approx'ly $3000 for the GSR. The extra $500 gives you parts that are much better, plus make more power once tuned. Now if you are going to add Type R cams to a GSR motor, why the hell would you not want a B16B that has all that **** anyways. Throw in a LS crank and rods and you've got 12.5:1 compression with those PCT pistons, and that will walk the GSR.

PLUS YOU GET LSD!!!!!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Where are you getting B16B's for 3500?????? I think the cheapest I have seen was around 4500-5000.

 

yea tru that. gsr swaps go for 3500 bux. civic type r and teggy type r swaps go for about 4500-5000 bux thats anywhere

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecvoodoo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go at least 1.8 or go home.</TD></TR></TABLE>

huh....for someone who has a K block i'm surprise you didn't tell him to get one

1.8 at least...depending on what you plan to do with your ride...

 

b16b is not a sleeper, u cant even tell it has it from the outside, the overall outside appearance of a car is how u dertmine if its a sleeper, i dont know bout you guys but i wouldn't exactly go around popping my hood to get props, sounds ridiclus. and why would anyone want to loose that near perfect rodratio and stick in a LS crank, id rather just build a lsvtec or b20vtec to begin with, if u get a b16b no reason to rip it appart, personally i think the b16b is a waist of money, but since the deck hieght is the same as the b18c id rather just get a gsr or itr crank to put in there and make it a 1.8L and you already have the head and tranny so its set

 

is the torque from a GSR motor better than the one from a B16B motor...can someone confirm this?

 

The GSR makes more tq throughout the rpm band. It makes like 124lb ft. The B16B makes 117lb ft...

And Last time I checked hmo their B16Bs were pretty cheap. I was just giving an estimate number. I'll check real quick to see what they sell them for.

EDIT
http://www.hmotorsonline.com/s...gines

$3800 + shipping from hmo

GSR swaps sell for a little less.
http://www.hmotorsonline.com/s...hit=5
#3200 + Shipping

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nextelbuddy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you now i agrtee with u on some of the things u say. but it really depends on the application the guys is going... he never said if he was going all motor or boost. if he was going all motor then your way would be optimal. but if he was going boost, then b18c is the way to go. teh compression you are talking about is not really streetable to the everyday joe. i know there are soem people onhere that ar liek i have 12:1 compression with boost and i drive on the street everyday. yea but they probably have a azz load more money dumped into the ingnition sytem to keep from detonating. i personally woult not choose b16b only cuz i am going boosted. but im sure there are people that like to be different</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually, he did say in his first post that he plans on going all motor, with OEM R parts. The B16B just makes more sense.

 

goin all OEM n/a: get the b16b and get a 1.8 crank and rods and put it back together with the ctr/pct pistons and go have some fun.

 

WAFFLES hit the nail on the head.
B16B.
no doubt.

 

b16b fo sho. After tuning, i think the motor has a lot more potential due to the higher quality parts. upgrading the b16b i think would produce a better product faster than you could get a c1 to the same level.