help.. car wont start..
im running on a d15b, got a full tune up around 5,000km ago...
fuel pump is getting power, everything seems normal..
basicly, I was trying to teach my friend stick, and when she stalled, the car would not start again. I have a problem like this all the time.. when I stall, it takes around 2 mins to start the car again. I thought it was just this, but it just would never start again.
car is getting fuel, spark isnt there
what do you guys think it is?
i had this happen on my old d16z6 before.. the exact same problem. we fixed by changing the oil,0 drying the spark wires, removing the spark plugs, and just running the starter for like 1 mins to dump any fuel in the cylinders... it worked in the end... ill try the same thing tomorrow i guess.. any other suggestions as to what it can be????
thanks guys
Modified by neilff at 12:06 PM 7/29/2003
fuel pump is getting power, everything seems normal..
basicly, I was trying to teach my friend stick, and when she stalled, the car would not start again. I have a problem like this all the time.. when I stall, it takes around 2 mins to start the car again. I thought it was just this, but it just would never start again.
car is getting fuel, spark isnt there
what do you guys think it is?
i had this happen on my old d16z6 before.. the exact same problem. we fixed by changing the oil,0 drying the spark wires, removing the spark plugs, and just running the starter for like 1 mins to dump any fuel in the cylinders... it worked in the end... ill try the same thing tomorrow i guess.. any other suggestions as to what it can be????
thanks guys
Modified by neilff at 12:06 PM 7/29/2003
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WiDeBoDyEK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does it crank but wont turn over?</TD></TR></TABLE>
it turns over
Modified by neilff at 9:08 AM 7/28/2003
it turns over
Modified by neilff at 9:08 AM 7/28/2003
im throwing code 17... defective VSS, which is cause I drove in deep rain the other day and the vss still has not dried out... shouldnt affect the start up of the car...
im gonna take out the hair dryer now and try and dry the wires and intake (if they are wet at all....) then pull the plugs and run the starter to dump and excess fuel in the cylinders....
what in the main relay that someone mentioned?? i do have that problem where if you drive some where, kill the car, then try and start it again that it will just stall... not sure if its all related...
im gonna take out the hair dryer now and try and dry the wires and intake (if they are wet at all....) then pull the plugs and run the starter to dump and excess fuel in the cylinders....
what in the main relay that someone mentioned?? i do have that problem where if you drive some where, kill the car, then try and start it again that it will just stall... not sure if its all related...
i checked for spark in the wires
it seems like there is no spark... i removed a wire and took a plug then grounded the tip to the engine bay and nothing appeared...
fuses are all okay
it seems like there is no spark... i removed a wire and took a plug then grounded the tip to the engine bay and nothing appeared...
fuses are all okay
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It might be your coil. The same thing happened to me today and it was my coil. I was coming off a highway ramp and the car died. I had fuel pressure, injectors were firing, but no spark. It turned out to be the coil. Let me know if this helps.
you could have hydro-locked your engine. How much water did you drive into? Check your oil, maybe pull your pan and see if you have water in there, maybe pull your head and see if there is water in the cylinders. Also check all your grounds, maybe you knocked a ground wire off when you hit the puddle, generally its bad to go flying into puddles, you never know what might be laying in the bottom of one. There is a test for your ignitor that eludes me right now, it is a rare occasion that a coil will go bad but if you fried your ignition who knows. You could have really killed your motor, if you can't get the engine to fire, see if there is water in it.
well, when i drove thru water, that was about 5 days before this happened (or 300 kms ago) so i dont think it would affect it now.
I went to local parts store and got my battery tested and charged. nothing has changed...
all i remember happening was that i went to take her out, the first time she drove i was like 'rev the car to 2,000rpm then pull the cutch out slow' she did so, she started driving, and then i was like 'okay, now stop'.. she just put the brake down withouth pushing clutch in and the car stalled because she dropped the rpms to zero.. we waited 2 mins and tried to start the car again.. it was chugging, and i was like 'hit the gas' and she didnt before the car stalled again
I went to local parts store and got my battery tested and charged. nothing has changed...
all i remember happening was that i went to take her out, the first time she drove i was like 'rev the car to 2,000rpm then pull the cutch out slow' she did so, she started driving, and then i was like 'okay, now stop'.. she just put the brake down withouth pushing clutch in and the car stalled because she dropped the rpms to zero.. we waited 2 mins and tried to start the car again.. it was chugging, and i was like 'hit the gas' and she didnt before the car stalled again
sounds like the distributor. turn the ignition to "on" and make sure the fat, black wire on the 2-Pin connector has 12V. If there's 12V there, but you're still not getting a spark, it's definitely something in the distributor. Troubleshoot the coil(measure primary, secordary ohms) and the ignitor chip(again by measuring resistances).
Last but not least, check out the cap and rotor. My accord just STOPPED running up in CT a couple years ago. No warning at all. I tried replacing the coil and the ignitor, but it turned out to just be a carbon deposit on the center button of the rotor (the one that makes contact with the cap via a spring loaded contact). Rubbed it off with a pencil eraser and haven't had a problem since.
More recently, our old 93 CivicEX stalled on me. No spark(again). I was convinced it was the distributor, but then I found that the main ground strap going to the tranny wasn't hooked up. Last owner had the clutch replaced, and they forgot to reconnect it. It gave me warning over a period of a couple days though. Re-bolted it, and good as new.
Last but not least, check out the cap and rotor. My accord just STOPPED running up in CT a couple years ago. No warning at all. I tried replacing the coil and the ignitor, but it turned out to just be a carbon deposit on the center button of the rotor (the one that makes contact with the cap via a spring loaded contact). Rubbed it off with a pencil eraser and haven't had a problem since.
More recently, our old 93 CivicEX stalled on me. No spark(again). I was convinced it was the distributor, but then I found that the main ground strap going to the tranny wasn't hooked up. Last owner had the clutch replaced, and they forgot to reconnect it. It gave me warning over a period of a couple days though. Re-bolted it, and good as new.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nuc79 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like the distributor. turn the ignition to "on" and make sure the fat, black wire on the 2-Pin...</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks for the detailed info.
ill get my electrician friend to come check it over with me tomorrow.
ill update then
thanks for the detailed info.
ill get my electrician friend to come check it over with me tomorrow.
ill update then
Here is a weird one but did you replace the cap recently? If so make sure it has the spring loaded contact that rubs the top of the rotor. If it's not there then you have been arcing from the top of the cap to the rotor and something is fried.
okay, i checked all my grounds, they are fine. the tranny mount ground was slightly frayed, so i wrapped it all together.. not sure if this would make a difference..
what is the electrical load detector? i read in the USA civic it in a part of the fusebox. with the canadian model, im not sure... because the haynes says it should be to the left side of the fuse box, but there is nothing there. unless it is underneath it??
anyways, my friend should come by in a few hours.. btw, my distributor cap is slightly damaged. when i bought the engine, it was dropped by accident and it has a slight damage mark on the right side, about the size of a dime.. would this stop it from operating? i ran the car with this for 3 months, so i dont see how it could...
what is the electrical load detector? i read in the USA civic it in a part of the fusebox. with the canadian model, im not sure... because the haynes says it should be to the left side of the fuse box, but there is nothing there. unless it is underneath it??
anyways, my friend should come by in a few hours.. btw, my distributor cap is slightly damaged. when i bought the engine, it was dropped by accident and it has a slight damage mark on the right side, about the size of a dime.. would this stop it from operating? i ran the car with this for 3 months, so i dont see how it could...
we went out and checked all the voltages and resistances
they all seem fine
i swapped out my brothers ignition coil and cap and it still would not spark. there is 12v power coming into the 2p connection...
any help?
they all seem fine
i swapped out my brothers ignition coil and cap and it still would not spark. there is 12v power coming into the 2p connection...
any help?
you did the resistance check on the ignitor chip (should be either an NEC or Hitachi)? Are you sure you're getting fuel but no spark? Smell the tailpipe while sombody cranks it. should smell like gas if the injectors are firing. If you've got gas for sure, and 12V to the distriubutor, and there's still no spark, try substituting a known-good ignitor.
Also, make sure (as stated above) that the small spring is in place between the coil and cap, and that the rotor is free of carbon. Then start looking for blown fuses.
Also, make sure (as stated above) that the small spring is in place between the coil and cap, and that the rotor is free of carbon. Then start looking for blown fuses.
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