i decided to give my uncle a ride in my car to show him how it ran...

b16 ctr internals, mis shifted into second and i have no rev limiter went threw 4th gear then let up. car made really bad noises and then something went crack and i ran over the crank pulley. i picked it up off the street and made it home. now can i just put it back on or do i have to do any thing else?

 

no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no


no.

more than likley you fucked up the harmonic balencer in the crank pully. the harmoic balencer is a layer of rubber that dampens the shock waves caused by the 4 explosions that are constantally going on. if you put that back on, its pritty much gaurenteed to **** your crank and whole bottom end up. so dont be cheap and get another one. shouldent be to bad ;]

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skribblah &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no </TD></TR></TABLE>

hey that is exactly what went threw my head when it happened

yes i am going to get a new one... i ran mine over and its all messed up. Now i dont think ctr pulleys have a harmonic balancer do they? Should i just go buy a b16 one from honda?

was it possible to mess something up... i drove it about 1 mile back to my house?

 

Why did it come off in the first place? It is possible that you damaged your crankshaft, inspect it carefully before you install the new pulley. You will need a new crank key as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why did it come off in the first place? </TD></TR></TABLE>

my guess is he did not put the key and the 19mm nut is loose.

get a new pulley/key/nut and check your crank.

 

when i first read your post, i was thinking to myself..." boy, is he in a world of ****" and then i remembered that its a b-series. on the h22, the key that goes onto the crank and runs thru the harmonic balancer pulley,the timing belt gear and the balance shaft drive gears. if that key slips out of place while the motor is running, then cam timing would be seriously out of whack,bent/broken valves etcc from the head remaining stationary while the bottom end is still moving.....BUT that;s the h/f series. i dont know if the b series has the same thing driving the timing belt. remember to torque the hell out of the crank pulley bolt next time. it's about 185ft/lbs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skribblah &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

more than likley you fucked up the harmonic balencer in the crank pully. the harmoic balencer is a layer of rubber that dampens the shock waves caused by the 4 explosions that are constantally going on. if you put that back on, its pritty much gaurenteed to **** your crank and whole bottom end up. so dont be cheap and get another one. shouldent be to bad ;]</TD></TR></TABLE>

wow ur dumb, do you know anything?

here is another example of how people post stupid remarkes w/ 1, having nothing to back it up, 2, not even knowing what they are talking about.

Lets clarify some ****. A b16 doesnt need a harmonic balancer. For one, its not a V8... old school V8's are big motors, 2nd they have HUGE harmonic balancers, not a thin layer of rubber.
2) 90-91 B16 DA's and EF's in japan dont come with harmonic balancers... there are lots of people with b16's out of obd-0 donor cars that have over 100k+++ on them with NO PROBLEMS...

3) how many motors have you taken apart smart guy talking out of his ***... obviously you would know under close inspection that there is NO DIFFERENCE IN BEARING WEAR from 1st to 2nd gen b16 motors. I have personally taken apart over 20 1st gen b16's and about 15 2nd gen b16s alone.... Now, if you have taken apart that many, you would know that there IS NO DIFFERENCE IN BEARING WEAR.

4) Your a dumbass im done with you.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
its about 185 ft/lbs
</TD></TR></TABLE>
um no its not, yet another example of how people just BS their way through.

The correct torque spec is 130 ft/lbs applying a light film of oil onto the threads but not on the washer surface.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why did it come off in the first place? </TD></TR></TABLE>

my only guess is it must have not been tight enough. the key was in place. we used a air gun to get it as tight as possible but i guess when i reved the snot out of it, it came off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MisterB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

my only guess is it must have not been tight enough. the key was in place. we used a air gun to get it as tight as possible but i guess when i reved the snot out of it, it came off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

... used an air gun to get it as tight as possible?

I hope u didnt use an air gun to get the main caps as tight as possible... along with the head bolts...

torque specs are created for a reason... i highly doubt that just "revving the crap out of it" that one time made it come off... and was going to eventually either way...

I wouldnt trust that pulley now that its been run over. Either take it to a machine shop, have it balanced, or just put a stock b16 one on.
I highly doubt any damage was done to the crank if your car runs fine


my apoligies for being so mean, Im in a bad mood

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by irev210 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

... used an air gun to get it as tight as possible?

I hope u didnt use an air gun to get the main caps as tight as possible... along with the head bolts...

torque specs are created for a reason... i highly doubt that just "revving the crap out of it" that one time made it come off... and was going to eventually either way...

I wouldnt trust that pulley now that its been run over. Either take it to a machine shop, have it balanced, or just put a stock b16 one on.
I highly doubt any damage was done to the crank if your car runs fine


my apoligies for being so mean, Im in a bad mood
</TD></TR></TABLE>


ok so in your first post i was agreeing with you but then you post this bullshit that you have to use a torque wrench on the crank pulley ... i have alot of friends that work at a honda dealer and none of them torque the crank pulley they just torque it with a impact gun.... now on the comment about they make torque specs for a reason well they make a torque spec for your oil drain plug but i have never seen anyone use a torque wrench on it there are things you torque and things you can just tell when they are tight enough ... i love to see how people on honda tech talk about everythign they have to torque down ...talk about over doing it ... i think some of the specs are there just so you have a idea how tight they have to be for the n00bs ... personally me in my shop i only use a torque wrench on the flywheel and head bolts everything else i can do without my torquewrench

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by irev210 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

um no its not, yet another example of how people just BS their way through.

The correct torque spec is 130 ft/lbs applying a light film of oil onto the threads but not on the washer surface.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
my bad on the wrong torque spec,mister.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H22 CD5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


my bad on the wrong torque spec,mister. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i'm pretty sure its 185 for the h22 though. at least thats what my helms says for h22. i'm sure b series might be different.

 

Forgive me for being stupid, but wouldn't the crank pulley coming off result in the timing belt getting f'd up and potentially destroying stuff?

 

Not necessarily. The crank pulley drives the drive belts, but there is another smaller pulley that drives the timing belt. If the car was run indefinitely without the crank pulley, eventually the timing belt pulley or key would come off and mess everything up, but not immediately.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stripped Honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


ok so in your first post i was agreeing with you but then you post this bullshit that you have to use a torque wrench on the crank pulley ... i have alot of friends that work at a honda dealer and none of them torque the crank pulley they just torque it with a impact gun.... now on the comment about they make torque specs for a reason well they make a torque spec for your oil drain plug but i have never seen anyone use a torque wrench on it there are things you torque and things you can just tell when they are tight enough ... i love to see how people on honda tech talk about everythign they have to torque down ...talk about over doing it ... i think some of the specs are there just so you have a idea how tight they have to be for the n00bs ... personally me in my shop i only use a torque wrench on the flywheel and head bolts everything else i can do without my torquewrench </TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh man... this is why I try to avoid bringing my car to a shop, much less a dealer, for repairs. You're right man, torque specs are bullshit... I am rolling my eyes now.

 

The crank pulley on my 99 si sheard the bolt and I had to drill it out and tap the crank. The motor has been fine sence replacing the pulley and bolt.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stripped Honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


ok so in your first post i was agreeing with you but then you post this bullshit that you have to use a torque wrench on the crank pulley ... i have alot of friends that work at a honda dealer and none of them torque the crank pulley they just torque it with a impact gun.... now on the comment about they make torque specs for a reason well they make a torque spec for your oil drain plug but i have never seen anyone use a torque wrench on it there are things you torque and things you can just tell when they are tight enough ... i love to see how people on honda tech talk about everythign they have to torque down ...talk about over doing it ... i think some of the specs are there just so you have a idea how tight they have to be for the n00bs ... personally me in my shop i only use a torque wrench on the flywheel and head bolts everything else i can do without my torquewrench </TD></TR></TABLE>

no offence, but people like you are exaclty what causes people to say, my oil pan bolts fell out, something rattles under my car blah blah blah.

yes obviously there is an extreme to using a torque wrench on a car, but things like crank pully, axle nuts, suspention parts, etc... should all be torqued down. Talk to any real engine builder, and tell me they use an impact gun to put the crank pulley on.

Im not trying to get into a fight... but ive never had any bolts fall out, strip etc when using a torque wrench.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BeerMan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Oh man... this is why I try to avoid bringing my car to a shop, much less a dealer, for repairs. You're right man, torque specs are bullshit... I am rolling my eyes now.</TD></TR></TABLE>

same with me...
i dont really blame them, time is money and in most of the cases im sure it works fine, but thats not how i treat my car, and I dont want any problems...
not saying I torque EVERY last bolt to spec, but important parts like suspention and alot of engine parts

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec_r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The crank pulley on my 99 si sheard the bolt and I had to drill it out and tap the crank. The motor has been fine sence replacing the pulley and bolt.</TD></TR></TABLE>

oh man i have yet to look down to see if the bolt came unscrewed or if it broke off in the crank

What is the correct torque spec for a b16 crank pulley

 

130 pounds and 1 gen is 87

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mmuller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">130 pounds and 1 gen is 87</TD></TR></TABLE>

so 130 pounds on what, a second gen b16 and only 87 for a first gen. does not make sense to me. Or are you saying 87lbs then 130lbs as a sequence

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stripped Honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


ok so in your first post i was agreeing with you but then you post this bullshit that you have to use a torque wrench on the crank pulley ... i have alot of friends that work at a honda dealer and none of them torque the crank pulley they just torque it with a impact gun.... now on the comment about they make torque specs for a reason well they make a torque spec for your oil drain plug but i have never seen anyone use a torque wrench on it there are things you torque and things you can just tell when they are tight enough ... i love to see how people on honda tech talk about everythign they have to torque down ...talk about over doing it ... i think some of the specs are there just so you have a idea how tight they have to be for the n00bs ... personally me in my shop i only use a torque wrench on the flywheel and head bolts everything else i can do without my torquewrench </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, I am a Honda Technician, and YES, I ALWAYS torque every crank pulley bolt that I tighten, and yes, I ALWAYS torque every oil pan drain bolt (30 lb.ft thank you very much) your "friends" who put crank bolts on with their impact guns are not very good technicians. I wouldn't let them check the air pressure in my tires. By putting the bolt on with a gun, you probably overtightened the bolt. I could tell you for sure if I actually saw the bolt. I would get a new bolt as well as the pulley, I can almost gaurantee that the threads on the bolt are pulled, just pray that you have not damaged the threads in the crank. Very expensive to repair.

As for the torque specs on the B16, yes it is 130, but you are supposed to put oil on the threads AND between the head of the bolt and the washer, and leave the rest clean and dry.

And by the way, the special tool to hold the crankshaft when you torque the nut, only costs about $125 from the dealer. Also very handy for holding the flywheel when installing a pressure plate. And yes I ALWAYS torque the pressure plate bolts (19 lb.ft)

Torque wrenches are for noobs? Actually, I find the better the technician, the more often they use a torque wrench. An impact gun is for noobs......

 

I will torque the pulley down to 130lbs and put oil on the threads along with a little bit between the bolt head and the washer...

So the b16 pullies do not have a harmonic balancer? I was under the impression that they did, but the ctr n1 pulley does not. So both pullies do not have the harmonic balancer???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MightyMouseTech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

As for the torque specs on the B16, yes it is 130, but you are supposed to put oil on the threads AND between the head of the bolt and the washer, and leave the rest clean and dry.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

hrm, i just double checked my helms manual and it states that you arent supposed to oil between the washer and head of the bolt

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by irev210 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hrm, i just double checked my helms manual and it states that you arent supposed to oil between the washer and head of the bolt</TD></TR></TABLE>

FOR IT IS WRITTEN IN THE BIBLE! LMFAO!! Jesus Christ!!! I can't believe you guys are actually talking about oiling the washer? haHA!!!

To tell you the truth, most mechanics, ASE certified, included, don't give-a-**** if you got some oil on the washer. Why? Probably because they've worked on hundreds of thousands of cars and have never heard of a bolt falling out because some idiot got some 5W-30 on the washer and bolt head.

There are extreme situations when tightening the bolts to spec are critical. Especially to noobies. The specs written in manuals are guidelines for proper installation.

Most experienced mechanics know how much to torque most bolts just by feel!!! Why do you think that professional mechanics hardly ever strip a bolt or break a bolt?!

Come on. Like who'd torque down their freaking oil cap! haHA!! Its like counting the clicks on your gas cap. HAHAHAHA!!!

Seriously though, I always tell do-it-yourselfers that theres nothing better than experience. And you won't gain experience it you haven't tried it. Sooner or later, you'll stop breaking things and stop scratching yourself on sharp corner, etc. etc.

I'll hire a no formal training but experienced guy over a fresh ASE certified grad anytime, anyday!