B18A1 84mm LS/VTEC Bottom end build???
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From: Land of the free, whoever told you that is your enemy
Well to my dismay my tired, and torqueless B16A w/ CTR cams, pistons, and crower valvetran is making some pretty bad noise. It sounds like a rod bearing possibly. So is appears it is time to build the LS motor I have sitting in the garage. Project daily driven and NA LS/VTEC, is born.
I will still use my same top end it still seems good. I do want to tear it down and give it a good looking over and replace the valve seals though.
The bottom end I was planning on JE 84mm pistons 10.5:1, stock rods with ARP bolts, stock sleaves, Z10 block girdle, replacing all bearings with OEM Honda.
I will probally only rev to 9000rpm at the track occasionally. Will this setup be good and reliable? Is anything excessive? Should I add GE sleaves and eagle rods, or is that overkill? I just want a reliable fun motor, that runs fine on pump gas.
Thanks in advance.
I will still use my same top end it still seems good. I do want to tear it down and give it a good looking over and replace the valve seals though.
The bottom end I was planning on JE 84mm pistons 10.5:1, stock rods with ARP bolts, stock sleaves, Z10 block girdle, replacing all bearings with OEM Honda.
I will probally only rev to 9000rpm at the track occasionally. Will this setup be good and reliable? Is anything excessive? Should I add GE sleaves and eagle rods, or is that overkill? I just want a reliable fun motor, that runs fine on pump gas.
Thanks in advance.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXBart »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Should I add GE sleaves </TD></TR></TABLE>
only sleeve it if you actually want to put 84mm pistons in there. otherwise your going 81.5
sleeving will add another 800 or so onto your project ontop of needing forged pistons/aftermarket rods (about 700 or more). you will be fine with b16a pistons .25 over and you will be about 1500 or so less expensive.
only sleeve it if you actually want to put 84mm pistons in there. otherwise your going 81.5
sleeving will add another 800 or so onto your project ontop of needing forged pistons/aftermarket rods (about 700 or more). you will be fine with b16a pistons .25 over and you will be about 1500 or so less expensive.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXBart »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any other tips???</TD></TR></TABLE>
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If you want to go 84 mm sleeve the block, get the forged internals, and get all vtec oil/water pumps. If its all-motor then maybe you might want to get some higher compression pistons too.
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From: Land of the free, whoever told you that is your enemy
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Triple T »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you want to go 84 mm sleeve the block, get the forged internals, and get all vtec oil/water pumps. If its all-motor then maybe you might want to get some higher compression pistons too.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I really just want to run pump gas and have a run reliable ride. I am also building a turbo motor for my other car. It will be the beastly one. This setup is just to be simple and reliable.
I really just want to run pump gas and have a run reliable ride. I am also building a turbo motor for my other car. It will be the beastly one. This setup is just to be simple and reliable.
u can sleeve it. thats never bad but the way ur talkin i wouldnt . if you would 84 mm just get a b20. the only thing tah seperates a ls from a cr is the ls's 81 mm to the b20's 84 mm. other than that they are identicle. my b20 vtec pulls on sohc vtec w 7 psi in ef-eg hatches- 240 sx w sr20det psi ?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MackSpeed-616 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that compression is pretty low, i would go atlest 11 or 12:1 you can very safely use that with pump gas.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Word. Depending on where you live if you get 93 octane you can safely run 12:1 with no problems.
Word. Depending on where you live if you get 93 octane you can safely run 12:1 with no problems.
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From: Land of the free, whoever told you that is your enemy
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Triple T »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Word. Depending on where you live if you get 93 octane you can safely run 12:1 with no problems. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Not to question you but with my B16 I had to run 50/50 110/93 or I had pinging
Word. Depending on where you live if you get 93 octane you can safely run 12:1 with no problems. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Not to question you but with my B16 I had to run 50/50 110/93 or I had pinging
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXBart »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Not to question you but with my B16 I had to run 50/50 110/93 or I had pinging
</TD></TR></TABLE>
if the motor had problems itll be alot more prone to pinging.
Not to question you but with my B16 I had to run 50/50 110/93 or I had pinging
</TD></TR></TABLE>
if the motor had problems itll be alot more prone to pinging.
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From: Land of the free, whoever told you that is your enemy
The only thing I could think of is the Mugen program ECU has more advance timming maps and that is what I was using. It only pinged when real hot out. Would the ecu cause that? Everything else was pretty much new, and I also piggybacked in a VAFC to control the fuel.
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