its a 91 dx. manifold, dist, ecu are all 88 si.


code 10 - IAT
i swapped the IAT from my dx manifold. there are 2 plugs which will plug into it (one green/one clear). it seemed to throw the code regardless of which was plugged in.

- i know there is the one plug left over after the mpfi swap is complete. if someone could tell me the wire colours for either the unused plug or the IAT plug it'd be a big help.
- was i wrong in thinking the IAT from the dx would work?

code 14 - eacv
i dont have the coolant lines hooked up to the eacv. for those who've done the mpfi swap how did you route the lines? is this the likely cause of my idle problems?

code 20 - ELD
my car is from canada and apparently this is a problem others have had before (american ecu throws code 20 in a canadian car). i think the only solution here is to get the right ecu.

alright so im pretty certain the eacv is the main cause of my idle problems but what could be the deal be with the smoke? it smokes especially bad on startup.

also those little canister things that are with the map sensor. my dx had the one canister there. i have the whole bracket thing from an si with both canisters/valves whatever they are but the thing is the si bracket with the extra cannister has an extra two pins on the electrical connector for it. so i figured since ive never seen any mention of adding wires for it in any mpfi write up id best stick with my stock setup and i tried to do the vacuum line routing accordingly to still have everything work. im wondering what you guys who've done the mpfi swap have done about this.

 

code 10 - IAT
i swapped the IAT from my dx manifold. there are 2 plugs which will plug into it (one green/one clear). it seemed to throw the code regardless of which was plugged in.

Should be a white/clear plug

- i know there is the one plug left over after the mpfi swap is complete. if someone could tell me the wire colours for either the unused plug or the IAT plug it'd be a big help.
- was i wrong in thinking the IAT from the dx would work?

Not sure what the extra wire colors are off the top of my head and its dark outside. But if you go to my site http://www.fourthgenhatch.com/zc.html I have pictures and the colors for the other wires that do hook up, so do process of elimination.

code 14 - eacv
i dont have the coolant lines hooked up to the eacv. for those who've done the mpfi swap how did you route the lines? is this the likely cause of my idle problems?

Are you sure they are coolant lines and not vacuum lines??

code 20 - ELD
my car is from canada and apparently this is a problem others have had before (american ecu throws code 20 in a canadian car). i think the only solution here is to get the right ecu.

Can't help with this one...

alright so im pretty certain the eacv is the main cause of my idle problems but what could be the deal be with the smoke? it smokes especially bad on startup.

Idle could be the EACV but also check the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). As for the smoke check the PCV valve, if its old and broken it will allow sludge to get burned in the engine and will cause smoke

also those little canister things that are with the map sensor. my dx had the one canister there. i have the whole bracket thing from an si with both canisters/valves whatever they are but the thing is the si bracket with the extra cannister has an extra two pins on the electrical connector for it. so i figured since ive never seen any mention of adding wires for it in any mpfi write up id best stick with my stock setup and i tried to do the vacuum line routing accordingly to still have everything work. im wondering what you guys who've done the mpfi swap have done about this.

On http://www.fourthgenhatch.com/zc.html I have a vacuum diagram that covers this

 

thanks for the reply man

heres an update... turns out i did have the wrong plug extended to the eacv (the iat plug). stupid that the iac, eacv, and third (now useless) plug all fit the same things.

anyways codes are gone. idle is still high.


im pretty certain its coolant lines not vacuum that run through the eacv but if im wrong id sure appreciate it if someone would correct me. but either way they're not hooked up because im gonna need to order/buy some new hoses.

im thinking the smoke is maybe some burning oil from the fast idle (now almost 3500 since i switched the plugs). ill try and get these hoses asap and figure out some kind of throttle bracket and post an update.

 

mine was idling high and burning coolant because i forgot to take off some gasket material from the intake manifold. check for coolant leaks by the manifold.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tylerspec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im pretty certain its coolant lines not vacuum that run through the eacv but if im wrong id sure appreciate it if someone would correct me. but either way they're not hooked up because im gonna need to order/buy some new hoses.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you are correct. and not having coolant running through the EACV could very much be a factor in your high idle situation.
No water = thinks it's cold = raise the idle

Also, what color is the smoke? if it's white, double check the gasket for leaks between cylinder #4 and the water outlet next to it. It's common for people doing this swap to end up sucking water into cylinder #4 and blowing the engine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tylerspec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also those little canister things that are with the map sensor. my dx had the one canister there. i have the whole bracket thing from an si with both canisters/valves whatever they are but the thing is the si bracket with the extra cannister has an extra two pins on the electrical connector for it. so i figured since ive never seen any mention of adding wires for it in any mpfi write up id best stick with my stock setup and i tried to do the vacuum line routing accordingly to still have everything work. im wondering what you guys who've done the mpfi swap have done about this.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

use the DX canister, I'll try to take some pics of mine tomorrow and post them up here so you can see where they go.

 

another update (i was out of town last 2 days)

smoke was white. i was thinking coolant too so i retorqued the intake mani bolts again and the smoking went down a lot (still seemed to be a little).

i tried disconnecting the eacv. the result was a pulsing idle 12-1500 rpm. still not perfect but a definate improvement.

after searching the archives here a bit it seems getting the vacuum line routing right is the key to getting my idle problems sorted out. my plan for tomorrow was to swap out the map sensor bracket for the one i have with a second canister and not worrying about wiring it for now but if things can be routed correctly without it that would be easier. anyone have a pic or a description to help me out? the only decent vacuum diagrams i can find use both those cannisters.

other questions i have
pcv system... this one was kinda stumping me. i realized that the brass fitting in the 2 or 3 runner of the dx mani was the pcv valve. am i going to do any damage driving without a pcv valve until i pick up an si or equivalent one (maybe 10 miles)?

throttle cable bracket.. i was thinking of trying to make something myself. any suggestions or should i try to find an si piece?

 

"after searching the archives here a bit it seems getting the vacuum line routing right is the key to getting my idle problems sorted out. my plan for tomorrow was to swap out the map sensor bracket for the one i have with a second canister and not worrying about wiring it for now but if things can be routed correctly without it that would be easier. anyone have a pic or a description to help me out? the only decent vacuum diagrams i can find use both those cannisters."



"other questions i have
pcv system... this one was kinda stumping me. i realized that the brass fitting in the 2 or 3 runner of the dx mani was the pcv valve. am i going to do any damage driving without a pcv valve until i pick up an si or equivalent one (maybe 10 miles)?"

You'll be ok but minimize your driving as it lets nasty stuff getting in your manifold.

"throttle cable bracket.. i was thinking of trying to make something myself. any suggestions or should i try to find an si piece?"

Order one new from hondaautomotiveparts.com , I got one not long ago, worked great.

 

thing is that the part that bolts to the top of the throttle body... the one that i have has 2 vacuum connections like in this pic. the manifold, tb, etc i'm using are all 88 pieces (and the pic is from an 88 helms). maybe 89+ or 90-91 are different...

 

You mean the Dashpot has 2 connections? The TB I got off of a 90-91 AWD Wagon had that stupid 2 plug Dashpot. Never seemed to work on my car and now I know why, apparently I needed that 2nd canister thing. But since I only have the purge cutoff valve I left that open and then the other thing was hooked to my map sensor.

So what you are saying is you have the 2 plug Dashpot but only one canister? I suggest getting a new Dashpot becuase its easier to put that on than it is create wiring for that 2nd canister.

If you look at that 2 plug dashpot you can undo those screws on it and probably make it a 1 plug dashpot. I know my 1 plug one looked exactly like the 2 plug one but the 2 plug had a fatter midsection. I can probably take some pics cuz I have a spare.

 

yeah heres a pic. my camera sucks but i hilighted the 2 vacuum connections.


i do have the map sensor bracket with the second cannister on it. thing is it also has an electrical connection which im not sure how to hook up. i was thinking of just hooking it all up as in the vacuum diagram i posted without having the electrical connections. if i could find one with just the one vacuum port that would make things a lot easier though.

any idea what cars i could find one on?

 

I have a dual port dashpot with one canister and it works fine.

I just ran a hose from the intake mani to the dashpot port that's facing to the left (the curved one) and left the other port disconected. at first i had the vacum line hooked to the other port, but it made my idle race way up.

as far as the white smoke goes, It will continue smoking for a little while even if you have the leak fixed. it's just the water that's trapped in your exhaust.