There is a possibility that I'm going to need new front brake pads for my 95 ls. What is a decent brand to replace oem? I don't need high preformance ones, I only need Oem quality or better but NOT high preformance. Thanks

 

get the life time

 

lifetime? I was comparing AEM and AXXIS FRONT brake pads, about 73.00 a pair. How are these? anyone have these on their car? and is the price fair?

thanks

 

Anyone who'd seriously consider so-called "lifetime" brakes is a moron. They are made of cheap **** and stop like it.

I have Axxis Ultimates and would recommend them. The AEM are supposed to be a "stock+" pad, giving a little more performance for no real trade-off from the OEMs. They are light dusting, but that really was never a concern of mine; I got the Ultimates instead.

Try Andie at Carbotech friction for a better price + 10% H-T member discount. You could probably do both axles for less than $100, which I recommend since Acura uses shitty organic material in the rear OEM pads.

 

We recommend, and sell, PBR pads. Same company that makes BAER brakes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bill Hook &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try Andie at XXXXXX for a better price + 10% H-T member discount.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Andie has great prices, great service, and will be happy to advise you on what is best for your particular needs. However, you gave the wrong name for his company. It's Cobalt Friction.

 

I recommend Hawk brake pads. I have been using them for years and love them.

 

i just installed brembo blank rotors and akebono ceramic pads all the way around my teg. they are very nice, quite, low dust and good stopping power. a good upgrade from stock, and you can have front and rear pads and rotors for about $200.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Andie has great prices, great service, and will be happy to advise you on what is best for your particular needs. However, you gave the wrong name for his company. It's Cobalt Friction.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

My bad. He USED to work there.

 

thanks for the info. If nothing is wrong with my OEM rotas, I'm not going to change them. SO my question is, will these performance pads, PBR, AXXIS, AEM, etc, fit directly over the stock rotas without problem?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acuraLSSE95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the info. If nothing is wrong with my OEM rotas, I'm not going to change them. SO my question is, will these performance pads, PBR, AXXIS, AEM, etc, fit directly over the stock rotas without problem? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Rotas are your wheels, right? Any brake pads you would get would fit inside the stock calipers. They will have no effect on the clearance of your wheels; if the calipers clear the wheels now, they will clear the wheels when you replace your brake pads.

 

I think the EBC greenstustuff pads are a good upgrade from stock. I have never used them, but the Hawk pads are really nice to but tend to be more of a high performance pad.

Cheers,
Roy

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acuraLSSE95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the info. If nothing is wrong with my OEM rotas, I'm not going to change them. SO my question is, will these performance pads, PBR, AXXIS, AEM, etc, fit directly over the stock rotas without problem? </TD></TR></TABLE>


Yes, any pad designed to fit your caliper will clear the stock rotors. Using old rotors can produce squeal, since they've already worn in to various irregularities (highs and lows). You can turn them, but then you reduce mass. the least I'd do would be to put a non-directional finish on them, probably using garnet sandpaper, as metal based Al oxide paper can allow particles to remain trapped on the rotor. It's an extra $30 per wheel to replace the rotor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NonstopMotorsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I recommend Hawk brake pads. I have been using them for years and love them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hawk pads

 

OEM

all the other ones i've tried squeak.....but some do perform a bit better

 

I hear Axxis Ultimates are a nice street pad. Thats what I'll be using when the time comes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SilverB18C1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I hear Axxis Ultimates are a nice street pad. Thats what I'll be using when the time comes.</TD></TR></TABLE>



Great for street / autoX

they do dust a lot though

 

I got the problem fixed. My calipers are fine just the fact that I haven't replaced my pads for years, worn down to metal.
I replace the both fronts with Brembo OEM blanks, and Ultimate Axxis Pads. They are as smooth as you can imagine. NO sqeaks, No rubbing sound.. Just quiet and Very sensitive in braking, EXCELLENT COMBO.. I RECOMMEDED to everyone.
very good.. nice.

thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acuraLSSE95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got the problem fixed. My calipers are fine just the fact that I haven't replaced my pads for years, worn down to metal.
I replace the both fronts with Brembo OEM blanks, and Ultimate Axxis Pads. They are as smooth as you can imagine. NO sqeaks, No rubbing sound.. Just quiet and Very sensitive in braking, EXCELLENT COMBO.. I RECOMMEDED to everyone.
very good.. nice.

thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've been using this same combo for the past 2 years as well. Nothing but

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acuraLSSE95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got the problem fixed. My calipers are fine just the fact that I haven't replaced my pads for years, worn down to metal.
I replace the both fronts with Brembo OEM blanks, and Ultimate Axxis Pads. They are as smooth as you can imagine. NO sqeaks, No rubbing sound.. Just quiet and Very sensitive in braking, EXCELLENT COMBO.. I RECOMMEDED to everyone.
very good.. nice.

thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just be sure to take it easy on the brakes for the first ~200 miles, then follow Andie's instructions on bedding in the pads, else you'll "cook" the rotors, since heat cycling is an important part of future performance.

 

hi, thanks for the info. What do you mean to follow andies' instruction? WHERE is his instruction, can you supply a link? What should I do to BREAK in the brakes/rotors. I'll been driving carefully, using the brakes lightly only.. never hard on them so far. I also bled my brakes and changed my Brake fluids to high preformance/high wet boiling point fluid, I think it's made from Germany.. don't remember the name now. I think it's blue brake fluid.




Modified by acuraLSSE95 at 5:15 AM 8/3/2003

 

The purpose of bedding the rotors is not just to heat cycle them, but also to deposit a uniform layer of pad material on the surface. You can read more about that in this white paper on Stoptech's website.

It gives the following instructions for bedding pads and rotors:

following proper break in procedures for both pad and disc and use the correct pad for your driving style and conditions. All high performance after market discs and pads should come with both installation and break in instructions. The procedures are very similar between manufacturers. With respect to the pads, the bonding resins must be burned off relatively slowly to avoid both fade and uneven deposits. The procedure is several stops of increasing severity with a brief cooling period between them. After the last stop, the system should be allowed to cool to ambient temperature. Typically, a series of ten increasingly hard stops from 60mph to 5 mph with normal acceleration in between should get the job done for a high performance street pad. During pad or disc break-in, do not come to a complete stop, so plan where and when you do this procedure with care and concern for yourself and the safety of others. If you come to a complete stop before the break-in process is completed there is the chance for non-uniform pad material transfer or pad imprinting to take place and the results will be what the whole process is trying to avoid. Game over.

In terms of stop severity, an ABS active stop would typically be around 0.9 G’s and above, depending on the vehicle. What you want to do is stop at a rate around 0.7 to 0.9 G's. That is a deceleration rate near but below lock up or ABS intervention. You should begin to smell pads at the 5th to 7th stop and the smell should diminish before the last stop. A powdery gray area will become visible on the edge of the pad (actually the edge of the friction material in contact with the disc - not the backing plate) where the paint and resins of the pad are burning off. When the gray area on the edges of the pads are about 1/8" deep, the pad is bedded.

For a race pad, typically four 80mph to 5 and two 100mph to 5, depending on the pad, will also be necessary to raise the system temperatures during break-in to the range that the pad material was designed to operate at. Hence, the higher temperature material can establish its layer completely and uniformly on the disc surface.

 

Hawk HP+ pads I used them at the local track, for a couple of high speed laps (30 laps @ 1.5 miles per lap: avg speed 60 mph) and I didn't have any problems with fade. I would highly recommend them. Also, the cold bite is awesome, so they're good on the street. People say they squeak a little, but I can't hear it over the squeaking of my camber kit

 

EBC Greenstuff are great. . its what i'm currently using right now. . .on very "spirited" driving, I've experienced no brake fade what so ever. I wouldn't say I stop on a dime, but maybe a quarter (c: . . . Next to my suspension it was the most obvious mod difference, and overall was the best bang-for-the-buck mod i've done up to date. . i've also heart lots of good stuff about hawk and porterfield . .

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rapid_roy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think the EBC greenstustuff pads are a good upgrade from stock. I have never used them, but the Hawk pads are really nice to but tend to be more of a high performance pad.

Cheers,
Roy</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garados &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hawk HP+ pads I used them at the local track, for a couple of high speed laps (30 laps @ 1.5 miles per lap: avg speed 60 mph) and I didn't have any problems with fade. I would highly recommend them. Also, the cold bite is awesome, so they're good on the street. People say they squeak a little, but I can't hear it over the squeaking of my camber kit </TD></TR></TABLE> yes you got it right on the nose. better braking no noise and little dust. if you want a really nice set go for the hp plus. they are what i use in the auto cross and solo II events that i go to.