have you guys ever seen this!!!!
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From: Sin City, NV, usa
just curious if this really does work.... or will it crack the sleeves? http://www.homemadeturbo.com/t....html
I have seen it before, and it is an interesting concept....I think you guys need to do some more research on it before you start talking about how bad of an idea it is.
You both openly admit to know nothing about it, yet you both are already talking down on it.
You both openly admit to know nothing about it, yet you both are already talking down on it.
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Honda-Tech Member
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From: Sin City, NV, usa
all i said is it looks bad... never said it WAS bad...
And i'm doing my research right now.... thanks
And i'm doing my research right now.... thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92boostn'hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">all i said is it looks bad... never said it WAS bad...
And i'm doing my research right now.... thanks
</TD></TR></TABLE>
(gawd, I hate that hammer thing....worse than "owned")
Yeah, me too, although finding info in it seems difficult.....There wasa guy on the CRX forum that built a ZC like that..... http://crx.honda-perf.org
And i'm doing my research right now.... thanks
</TD></TR></TABLE>(gawd, I hate that hammer thing....worse than "owned")
Yeah, me too, although finding info in it seems difficult.....There wasa guy on the CRX forum that built a ZC like that..... http://crx.honda-perf.org
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We've been doing (posting) since the 70's, and it does work extremely well. We also sell the threaded posts made from the same alloy as the Honda blocks.
The block in my Civic is posted running 15-27psi, and it's been driven HARD for six years now. The block in my ITR is also posted (I opted for posting it over sleeving).
The block in my Civic is posted running 15-27psi, and it's been driven HARD for six years now. The block in my ITR is also posted (I opted for posting it over sleeving).
you guys get a big *** 
posting has been around for a while and its a great way to strengthen the sleeves. many people have done this and it is a very efficent way of re-enforcing the block sleeves.
from larrys badtothebone article:
Since as noted above, these blocks are a bit on the fragile side, I’ll use the old NASCAR trick of “posting” to improve its survival rate. BTW, as a point of interest, there are all sorts of clowns in the import industry claiming to have invented posting, but if they weren’t old enough to be building engines in the late 60’s, they’re liars because “posting” had it origins with attempts to strengthen Ford blocks and heads back then. Hell, after looking at some of the hand-built race blocks from the first half of the 20th century, “posting” probably began much earlier than that.
The posting process involves machining and tapping holes in the thrust sides of the block and torquing in threaded aluminum “posts” that physically “connect” the outer part of the cylinder with the outside (peripheral) walls of the block. With these “posts” installed, if the cylinder walls are going to move, they have to move the outside walls of the block too, so they add a tremendous amount of strength, making the block capable of withstanding a lot of abuse. This modification also has no ill effect on cylinder cooling, which is something I’m big on these days.

posting has been around for a while and its a great way to strengthen the sleeves. many people have done this and it is a very efficent way of re-enforcing the block sleeves.
from larrys badtothebone article:
Since as noted above, these blocks are a bit on the fragile side, I’ll use the old NASCAR trick of “posting” to improve its survival rate. BTW, as a point of interest, there are all sorts of clowns in the import industry claiming to have invented posting, but if they weren’t old enough to be building engines in the late 60’s, they’re liars because “posting” had it origins with attempts to strengthen Ford blocks and heads back then. Hell, after looking at some of the hand-built race blocks from the first half of the 20th century, “posting” probably began much earlier than that.
The posting process involves machining and tapping holes in the thrust sides of the block and torquing in threaded aluminum “posts” that physically “connect” the outer part of the cylinder with the outside (peripheral) walls of the block. With these “posts” installed, if the cylinder walls are going to move, they have to move the outside walls of the block too, so they add a tremendous amount of strength, making the block capable of withstanding a lot of abuse. This modification also has no ill effect on cylinder cooling, which is something I’m big on these days.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skribblah »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">posting has been around for a while</TD></TR></TABLE>
skribblah and Woofer are right.
Everyone needs to read Hot-Rod magazine. This has been around for a long while. The only question about the installation was NOT instaling them along the center of the "thrust axis" for each cylinder bore.
Other than that:
skribblah and Woofer are right.
Everyone needs to read Hot-Rod magazine. This has been around for a long while. The only question about the installation was NOT instaling them along the center of the "thrust axis" for each cylinder bore.
Other than that:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WOTTEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
skribblah and Woofer are right.
Everyone needs to read Hot-Rod magazine. This has been around for a long while. The only question about the installation was NOT instaling them along the center of the "thrust axis" for each cylinder bore.
Other than that:
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Me too! Seen it, and also
!!!
Dan P.
skribblah and Woofer are right.
Everyone needs to read Hot-Rod magazine. This has been around for a long while. The only question about the installation was NOT instaling them along the center of the "thrust axis" for each cylinder bore.
Other than that:
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Me too! Seen it, and also
!!!Dan P.
even from reading it i couldnt quite understand what the exact function of these 'posts' are. My guess is to stabilize the sleeves of an open deck motor. someone please explain
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From: Sin City, NV, usa
that's what i'm assuming... cause (i guess) under pressure and high revs it helps keep them from moving.... ?!?!?!?!?
If you guys register with HMT and go in the hybrid section there is a sticky about the whole process, last I checked Jeff ran a 12.03 on stock block / turbo. I plan on posting on one of my next project instead of sleeving.
Someone asked how tight they are put in, here is Jeff's quote from HMT forums:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by abaz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The studs just barely touch the outside of the cylinder wall, as said only 2 inch pounds, so you can imagne how much they are really touching. T.O.O, and my local machinest said that a rebore job should be done after doing this, Just incase the walls get distorted somehow. I really dont give a ****, It should work just fine, if it breaks it breaks, if it doesnt then well... I'll be happy
I was a little bumed when I found out the b20b is going to lower the c/r down to low 9's
Jeff
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Someone asked how tight they are put in, here is Jeff's quote from HMT forums:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by abaz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The studs just barely touch the outside of the cylinder wall, as said only 2 inch pounds, so you can imagne how much they are really touching. T.O.O, and my local machinest said that a rebore job should be done after doing this, Just incase the walls get distorted somehow. I really dont give a ****, It should work just fine, if it breaks it breaks, if it doesnt then well... I'll be happy
I was a little bumed when I found out the b20b is going to lower the c/r down to low 9's
Jeff
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