Here is my situation. After I installed the CTR pistons and fired her up. She was ilding kinda rough.

1 sensor wasn't plugged up. But note, that she was idling around 1500 rpm. No code was thrown untill about 10 seconds after it would idle. The code would not retain in the ecu.

Ok, so I plug everything up on the TB and manifold. I crank it up. HOLY **** it climbs the RPMs like full throttle!!!! I shut it down imediatly. Ok, so I figured it could be that I mixed up some the harness connectors, and the **** is assed backwards.

I double check the wire colors, with the connections, via the helms manual. All looks good. Crank her up. Same thing hapens. Shut her down before she could climb the tach, though.

Now, I triple checked the connections/wires and it all looks good. However I havent started it again b/c I dont want to fuckup the piston ring seating (prolly has already )

I thought it could be that little screw on top of the throttle body, to adjust the idle.... Nope. Wouldn't affect it.

 

IS your throttle body closed?Maybe you got a leak between your intake manifold and head.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J2turbo21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IS your throttle body closed?Maybe you got a leak between your intake manifold and head.</TD></TR></TABLE>Yeah, it's definitely a leak in either ur throttle plate, Throttle Body, or intake manifold.......just fixed a car w/ same exact problem.

 

or maybe you tighten the throttle cable too tight.....my brother did that on my friends car....sh*t went stright up to 5k

 

Make sure the throttle pulley is hitting the stop plate. Might have left something wedged in the throttle body.

Check TPS voltage.

 

Nothing is wedge in the throttle body. The pulley is hitting the stop plate and the cable is installed fine.

I dont have a multimeter with me so I cant check TPS voltage as of now.

All bolts to the IM were tightened down again.

It still does it. I'm out of ideas.

 

Anyone? I'm becoming seriously desperate.

Let me give some more information on the situation.

The throttle cable seems to be installed correctly. Tension is correct. The throttle body plate inside is closed fully when you start the car. The You dont have to give the car any gas at all, and it'll climb the RPMs.

I'm clueless to what is needed to correct this.


EDIT: For the 4th time since install was finished. All sensors plug harness were verified installed correctly in the right spot.




Modified by P1mpSlap at 4:42 PM 7/26/2003

 

check the fast idle valve on the bottom back side of the throttle body. its a little plate the size of a half dollar facing the fire wall. its held on by two screws.

undo it and see if the vacuum plunger is unthreaded. if it is loose, screw it back in till it snugs down tight.

i had a very simmilar problem and thats what i did to fix it.

 

what kind of TB are you using? maybe you should use another one....just a thought...hope you fix it soon

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jeremyEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check the fast idle valve on the bottom back side of the throttle body. its a little plate the size of a half dollar facing the fire wall. its held on by two screws.

undo it and see if the vacuum plunger is unthreaded. if it is loose, screw it back in till it snugs down tight.

i had a very simmilar problem and thats what i did to fix it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea that could be it also,there is holes on the inide of there that lead into the TB,the wax plunger is open when its cooled to make it idle high and when its warm the plunger melts and blocks the hole off.Im almost 100% sure thats what it does

 

If the FIAC is the problem, haven't got around to check, it'll prolly need full replacement if the plunger is fucked. In which case I dont see how it could've fouled out during the install?!!!???

Also it's not a fluctuating idle. Start your car up with your foot floored on the gas, and you'll see what I'm going through. ******* sucks for a freshly built motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P1mpSlap &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Start your car up with your foot floored on the gas, and you'll see what I'm going through. ******* sucks for a freshly built motor.

</TD></TR></TABLE>That's exactly what the car we fixed did....Just fire up the engine, rpm shoots straight up to redline (if we don't shut it down right away). Intake manifold leak even after we torqued all bolts in ordered sequence and everything. We sprayed soapy water all around the manifold and fired it up and it stuttered a few seconds before the rpm start to climb again----&gt;that's how we found out the intake manifold was leaking FYI....give it a try

 

have you checked all your vacuum lines? That sounds to be the culprit.

 

a vaccum would make your idle higher.. but not skyrocket....

you have a leak somewhere, and dollars to donuts its the TB that is the culprit....

 

I had the same problem when I installed a JRSC....Check to make sure your fuel rail and fuel injectors are tightened down SNUG to the rubber o-rings and that you cannot turn them, wiggle them, or even move them. That was my problem and i tightened them and it cured it