I am about to install my rollcage I recently purchased and was eventually planning on painting the interior body of my car black (car is a red 90 CRX). I won't see much other than the spare tire spot but I've noticed a lot of the stock interior paint is kinda shitty and wanted to just recover it all when I do it. I'll obviously be stripping the entire interior to do this job and my question was what the best way to go about the painting?

My understanding right now is I should:
(look further down I changed my plan)


Modified by Mr.Saturn at 9:20 PM 8/3/2003

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.Saturn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
My understanding right now is I should:
1) clean everything
2) sand it in spots i think rust might be
3) primer it
4) spray is black with some duplicolor
5) spray clear on top
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Cleaning everything is easier said than done if you're leaving something behind (like the tar, or wires, or other such things). My version of cleaning included scraping everything to bare metal before the primer coat went on. Keep in mind, however, the goals of my paint job...glare. I don't really care how nice it looks or how durable it is since I carry a can of paint with me for such things. Just spend a lot of time on the primer coat since that will protect you from rust, and do lots of coats. Personally, I didn't mess with the clear coat because I was trying to avoid glare, and I used a flat black as my final coat. Maybe it's less durable without the clear coat, but again...that's why I carry an extra can with me. Also, I didn't bother painting the rear section of the car since I don't really see it when I'm driving. I was mainly concerned with the front floor and doors, as well as the roof.

 

i think you have the steps down for painting, you might want to scuff the rest of the places you didn't sand b4 primer. however if the cage is welded to your floor in anyplace you will have to strip that area to be prepped for welding. i would personally strip the car, have the cage welded then paint... that way you can paint the cage, welds, etc... but its up to you, depends where the points for your cage are. hth

edit: i think no tar sound junk looks cleaner

 

I should note some things, I'm doing it mostly to check/protect for rust, but also so if I change the exterior a different color it won't matter. I was thinking a semi-gloss black, nothing fancy, glare or not wouldn't matter to me. The autopower bar is bolt in but just because of the sealent I wouldn't wanna have to bother with removing it. Also I will be keeping carpet, it weights like 1-2lbs total and its just better with it.

I was thinking I may just do the rear section now because I can strip the front still with the rollbar in. Because of the way the autopower bar mounts I can't remove the rear plastic with the bar in.

 

ttt

 

up last time unless anyone else has any tips

 

ttt, plans changed, I stripped all the sound deadener out, the bar is bolt in and now I want to paint the inside all nice how should I go about cleaning it to bare metal, or should I just rough the paint up and then primer/paint? very detailed info helps, I'm on a close schedule with this being a daily driver, and school in Oct!

 

Just ruff the paint up so the primer has something to stick too. Put some primer down. Paint. Clear coat mayber. buff for perfection.

 

Rough it up with sand paper, steel wool, what have you? Details details lol I just wanna do it right the first time

 

BTW if you don't mind it's loudness in the cabin strip the tar. I'd paint it glossy black and the doorhinges/ jambs at the same time then go to macco and paint the car black as well. In your sig it says engine in the works . Well when swapping engines i'd paint the bay as well.

 

tars been stripped, interiors gonna be a textured black spray that I have (so u cant see how bad a painter I am) and outside will eventally get a nice paint job so that stays for now (car was garaged 6 years by previous owner, paint is perfect)

 

Mr.Saturn, what was your method for removing the tar/sound deadening mats? I want to do the same thing and i removed some in a small section and it seems like it will be time consuming...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mr.Saturn, what was your method for removing the tar/sound deadening mats? I want to do the same thing and i removed some in a small section and it seems like it will be time consuming...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Use dry ice, then chip away at it.

 

and be sure to smash the dry ice into powder with a dead blow, dont use a rubber mallet or it will freeze/shatter the hammer itself

 

I painted the interior of my CRX with rustoleum oil based paint.
I bought a quart of white paint at HD and a couple of disposable foam rollers then went to town with it. It came out beautiful. My friends didn't believe I rolled it.
The car used to be ugly blue and the paint covered the color in one coat. It takes a good two days for the paint to be fully dry and about a week for it to cure.
I didn't bother with primer. I used lint free towels and laquer thinner, cleaned the whole interior and started at the back then moved forward. Nice, easy,cheap, durable way to paint your interior.
Here is a shot

 

I would use Rustoleum if I were you for added protection.

 

Alright heres my updated plan, should start pretty soon:
1) clean everything with water, then alcohol
2) rough up surface with steel wool
3) tape off anything I need to (wires, etc)
4) spray 2 coats of rustoleum automotive primer
5) spray 1-2 coats of rustoleum black textured enamel

good idea? any comments?

 

yeah i need to remove my sound deadner that i sprayed in the rear before. i dont understand how to use the dry ice method?

 

For each section of material use about a 3"x3"x3" block of dry ice, and split it over and over with a chisel and hammer til its in .5" cubes, then arrange them evenly over the area you are working on and whack em with a dead-blow hammer til they all turn to dust, since the whackin will settle the dust in grooves, spread the dust around evenly (gloves a necessity, and put a rubber band around the wrist, I didn't and the dust flew up and into the gloves), edges being most important. Wait a decent about of time and whack the whole deal with the dead blow a few times. Then slide a putty knife (think thats right) under and edge as far as u can and pry upward. If you waited long enough and spread the stuff evenly it should come in big chunks although some parts like to be a bitch and just stay there. It gets fun after you get the hang of it lol! Good luck!