I have the opportunity to trade my sleeved ls block for a sleeved AND deckplated GE block...

<u>But I have two questions first:</u>

1) The deckplate is 1" not 5/8". If I take it to a machine shop, can they mill/deck the block so that the deckplate is 5/8" so I can use a factory timing belt with the water pump block-off plate??

2) Using a Eagle 95mm Crank, do I have to run ACL Bearings? How reliable will a street car be with an aftermarket crank, rods, and bearings. How often will I have to check on the bearings? I don't want to spin a rod bearing b.c of cheasy non-honda bearings and loose a $750 crank and $400 rods.

3) With a 86*95 motor (2207cc), stock ITR head, 12.3:1 CR, EF1 M24E Cams (303/12.7mm), JG VictorX Manifold, 70mm TB, and headertech header.. What kind of WHP am I looking at?

I think i'd have to get a license plate that read b22c5

If I do trade blocks, i have to sell my headertech header, get enzo to fab me a new one for the deckplate, sell my pistons/rods, order another set from jeff, cut my hood and add washers, buy an electric water pump, buy a stroker crank, get the machine shop to mill the deck down to 5/8" of an inch.

Gimme your input HT!!

Pic of the Block:


IS IT WORTH THE EXTRA HEADACHE?? YES OR NO!&gt;?!

 

not worth it for a street car.

on a side note. ACL bearing are used on lots and lots of very fast cars.
ninesecCRX uses them in his race car.
rocket uses them
luckyracing uses them
luckymike uses them 11.4 all motor race car and 11.8 street car all motor.

 

How come? It won't be reliable?

I know the performance is worth it. 270whp all-motor is awesome, I can't even imagine how fast it would be. It's really hard to keep up with the big boys in Miami w/ an NA honda. A 2.2L B-series on a 100-shot would be NICE against those damn cammed z06's and turbo supras rolling around.

 

I had to make all these decisions when I was purchasing my dart block. I decided to keep it stock deck. The thing that strayed me away was the timming belt and cam timming issues that I wasnt ready to tackle.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tbone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had to make all these decisions when I was purchasing my dart block. I decided to keep it stock deck. The thing that strayed me away was the timming belt and cam timming issues that I wasnt ready to tackle.</TD></TR></TABLE>

very smart choice
you can make a bunch of power
with the 8.347 DH

 

Well, I know with the 5/8" deckplate you can use a factory gsr timing belt w/ the waterpump block off plate..

What are the cam timing issues?

I'm getting dissuaded from the deckplate, maybe I will just run my 85*89 lsvtec.

 

Deckplates can make big power...but, Not worth the headache IMHO.

If you got the loot, go for it though.

Suprdave

 

Not worth it either in my opinion, my friend still hasn't gotten his motor running yet and it's been a few months. And I wouldn't call ACL cheesy bearings. People do actually prefer them over Honda and they do perform better than OEM Honda bearings.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I do trade blocks, i have to sell my headertech header, get enzo to fab me a new one for the deckplate, sell my pistons/rods, order another set from jeff, cut my hood and add washers, buy an electric water pump, buy a stroker crank, get the machine shop to mill the deck down to 5/8" of an inch.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That sounds like a alot of buying and selling.I had the chance to get one too but it was to much trouble with having to sell a bunch of crap to get new ****.Then order some new stuff for the Timing belt.Just doesnt seem worth it.

 

Just a thought and not to get off topic, but.....

Has anyone actually measured the H22/23 timing belt against the GSR/ITR??

I am wondering if it's any longer, or is it TOO long?

 

I have a 5/8" deckplate motor and I am currently running it all motor setup on a full drag crx. and with just a small bit of tuning I have achieved a 11.70's shifting a 8000 rpm's I am going to shift at 9000, and only use my 1-4 gears... (b16a si tranny 24.5 slicks..) also the cams have to be set at TDC and to do that you need aftermarket cam gears. u need dowel pins for the cams then tighten up the timing belt by your cam gears.. the new TDC then needs to be marked on the cam gears.. any questions call my shop.. thanks...

 

im assuming that tbone is refering to the cam timing change when you change the distance from the head to the block you change the timing (like when you mill the head) this may lead to having to adjust the cams alot with gears or have custom cams made with that big of a difference (5/8ths)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MaxBoost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> With a 86*95 motor (2207cc), stock ITR head, 12.3:1 CR, EF1 M24E Cams (303/12.7mm), JG VictorX Manifold, 70mm TB, and headertech header.. What kind of WHP am I looking at? </TD></TR></TABLE>

alot... all that engine work and no port work on the head though? thats like buying a bmw and getting a tape player

 

I dont have the cash to get my head ported right now, the stock itr port will have to due for a bit. Eventually I will build another head ported and polished for ITB's, then i'll throw them on with the rest of my current setup and that's it.

 

LOL, no money for port work but money for new crank , rods , pistons .. Stick with the standard deck and get your head ported. Thats my suggestion.

 

You would need substantial headwork to flow enough air for 2.2L+

Stick with a stock deck...

Suprdave

 

was i right about the timing thing though tom?

anyway yeah youll prolly make more power as a 2l with a ported head than a 2.2 with an R head

 

I think people underestimate how well stock Honda heads flow from factory. I know it's not hard to break 200whp with a stock gsr head. Regardless, portflow will be porting another head for me in about a 3 months, but not right now. It's good though because I will be able to see exactly how much whp I get with the exact same mods, assuming i don't get ITB's at the same time..lol

 

very good choice. will definally be worth it.

 

Honda Heads flow great for 1.6\1.8L...You'll see once you switch to a big inch setup that a ported head will net larger power gains than on a low cube motor.

Suprdave

 

ehh, Keep It Simpe Stupid

just stay 2.0 not worth the headache

i like a car that is running and reliable VS a car that im not sure if is going to blow up the next time i rev to 9k

 

Deckplate motor are the **** if you have atleast 7k to spend. The block you are looking close to 4k just for built block + crank , custom piston , sleeves .. etc.. Also custom arp rod bolts and head studs. But deckplate motor should be reliable if you built it right. Since it use longer rods it will put less stress on the internal. Also you will need to run an electric water pump i believe i dunno why but i think you have to to obtain the OEM timming belt or use a toda one same thing.

goodluck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MaxBoost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I do trade blocks, i have to sell my headertech header, get enzo to fab me a new one for the deckplate</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you go that route, i'll buy that headertech header from you

 

OK. So forget that deckplate.

Here's the setup. what's the power estimate?

85*89mm LS Block
IB Super Duper Spec Custom Pistons 85mm 12.3:1
Probe Industriest Rods
ITR Head
JG Victor X Manifold
RPM Services 70mm TB
HeaderTech SS Header
QTEC 3" w/ stock exhaust
EF1 M24E Cams 303/12.mm
EF1 BVTECSS Valvesprings
EF1 BVTECTi Retainers
Hondata (probably be tuned by Secret Services)

Car is a 2000lb w/ driver..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MaxBoost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK. So forget that deckplate.

Here's the setup. what's the power estimate?

85*89mm LS Block
IB Super Duper Spec Custom Pistons 85mm 12.3:1
Probe Industriest Rods
ITR Head
JG Victor X Manifold
RPM Services 70mm TB
HeaderTech SS Header
QTEC 3" w/ stock exhaust
EF1 M24E Cams 303/12.mm
EF1 BVTECSS Valvesprings
EF1 BVTECTi Retainers
Hondata (probably be tuned by Secret Services)

Car is a 2000lb w/ driver..
</TD></TR></TABLE>

89mm bore ? what kind of sleeves you gonna run ? open deck or close deck sleeves? 89mm is ******* thin as **** so i were u i suggest close deck sleeves. But beside that your set up is really nice and im saying 230whp... guessing.

goodluck