Piston install pics
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,554
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From: Plano, TX, usa
Re: Piston install pics (P1mpSlap)
lookin good.
couple questions if you dont mind...
How did you replace pistons with the bottom block still in the car?
Do you have to remove the rocker assembly to swap in valvesprings and retainers? tia
couple questions if you dont mind...
How did you replace pistons with the bottom block still in the car?
Do you have to remove the rocker assembly to swap in valvesprings and retainers? tia
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,416
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From: Columbus, GA, USA
Re: Piston install pics (Tweakmeister)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tweakmeister »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not gonna hone?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I rehoned, or atleast I broke the glaze of the cylinder walls. It didnt' take much.
It might not show it in the pics. Plus I have some fresh oil on the walls just so that I could rotate the crank and see if they would move freely.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I rehoned, or atleast I broke the glaze of the cylinder walls. It didnt' take much.
It might not show it in the pics. Plus I have some fresh oil on the walls just so that I could rotate the crank and see if they would move freely.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Columbus, GA, USA
Re: Piston install pics (tilt)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tilt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lookin good.
couple questions if you dont mind...
How did you replace pistons with the bottom block still in the car?
Do you have to remove the rocker assembly to swap in valvesprings and retainers? tia</TD></TR></TABLE>
Pull the oil pan off, pull off the oil pickup/screen, pull off the block girlde (if you can without removing the main caps), and disconnect the rods. Push them up through the block.
pulling out the rocker assembly makes it a whole lot easier to put the valve springs in. Gives you a lot more room to work with. It's not hard to pull them out. You just need some rubber bands to keep the rocker arms together so that the rocker piston doesn't fall out and get misplaced.
couple questions if you dont mind...
How did you replace pistons with the bottom block still in the car?
Do you have to remove the rocker assembly to swap in valvesprings and retainers? tia</TD></TR></TABLE>
Pull the oil pan off, pull off the oil pickup/screen, pull off the block girlde (if you can without removing the main caps), and disconnect the rods. Push them up through the block.
pulling out the rocker assembly makes it a whole lot easier to put the valve springs in. Gives you a lot more room to work with. It's not hard to pull them out. You just need some rubber bands to keep the rocker arms together so that the rocker piston doesn't fall out and get misplaced.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Columbus, GA, USA
Re: Piston install pics (francisco flores)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by francisco flores »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you changed your bearings???
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was going to, but I used a caliper to measure the specs once, then I plastigauged the beargings on the crank. All looks good.
BTW. Talk about painstaking process. This process itself took 1 entire day. On cylinder # 2 I smeared the plastiguage pulling the piston out and had to start all over.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was going to, but I used a caliper to measure the specs once, then I plastigauged the beargings on the crank. All looks good.
BTW. Talk about painstaking process. This process itself took 1 entire day. On cylinder # 2 I smeared the plastiguage pulling the piston out and had to start all over.
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: some where in a locked cage
Re: Piston install pics (P1mpSlap)
doing the same build up but dont have a digi cammera.
so far I found that one squirter on cyl#3 was gone (wtf)
now I have to wait for it till fri.
other than that I compared the pistons from b17a to a b18a1.
and they look the same except for the rods a little bulkier.
but I guess the oem rods could take the pounding from CTR pistons.
and yes im getting skunked...
so far I found that one squirter on cyl#3 was gone (wtf)
now I have to wait for it till fri.
other than that I compared the pistons from b17a to a b18a1.
and they look the same except for the rods a little bulkier.
but I guess the oem rods could take the pounding from CTR pistons.
and yes im getting skunked...
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Columbus, GA, USA
Re: Piston install pics (francisco flores)
True.
IMO, take your time on it. I think I've rushed on mine, but hopefully all goes well.
I've also caught Laryngitis during the middle of this install! WTF so I'm working on this and have to run out and get something. I can talk.
Oh, and I would've known that my car would've been down for this long. I would've bought a Hondata intake manifold gasket. Taking that IM was a BITCH!!!!!!!
IMO, take your time on it. I think I've rushed on mine, but hopefully all goes well.
I've also caught Laryngitis during the middle of this install! WTF so I'm working on this and have to run out and get something. I can talk.
Oh, and I would've known that my car would've been down for this long. I would've bought a Hondata intake manifold gasket. Taking that IM was a BITCH!!!!!!!
Honda-Tech Member
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From: some where in a locked cage
Re: Piston install pics (P1mpSlap)
all I have now its to get the cams and cam gears
fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator
and some time at the dyno
what do you estimate your HP gain on your set up?
fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator
and some time at the dyno
what do you estimate your HP gain on your set up?
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,416
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From: Columbus, GA, USA
Re: Piston install pics (francisco flores)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by francisco flores »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">all I have now its to get the cams and cam gears
fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator
and some time at the dyno
what do you estimate your HP gain on your set up?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ditto. I'm thinking Skunk2 stage 3's
With just the pistons.... I have no clue. I last Dynoed as 150whp and 117trq with just my IceBox and ghetto *** Tanabe exhaust.
I'd like to say 165whp just off the pistons. I'd be happy. 170whp and I'd buy everyone at the dyno drinks. But really. I dunno. I'd just be happy if it ran correctly. lol
fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator
and some time at the dyno
what do you estimate your HP gain on your set up?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ditto. I'm thinking Skunk2 stage 3's
With just the pistons.... I have no clue. I last Dynoed as 150whp and 117trq with just my IceBox and ghetto *** Tanabe exhaust.
I'd like to say 165whp just off the pistons. I'd be happy. 170whp and I'd buy everyone at the dyno drinks. But really. I dunno. I'd just be happy if it ran correctly. lol
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 12,497
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From: Newark/Bay Area, CA., USA
Re: Piston install pics (francisco flores)
i'd recommend taking off that intake manifold and replacing it w/ the skunk2 since its off..i'm sure you knew the hassle it was just getting that POS off! LOL
Thread Starter
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From: Columbus, GA, USA
Re: Piston install pics (216.226.142.95:27016)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 216.226.142.95:27016 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how about a right up with the whole process? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Here is a rough walk through.
It's pretty technical, but the concept is pretty simple. It's impossible unless you have 2 people and a helms manual.
You have to measure specs, over and over.
By all means no one should attempt this if they have never worked on their car before or do not own a helms manual.
It's not easy. It's even harder if you don't have anyone helping you or have the correct tools. The craftsman ring compressor is pretty shitty. If you plan on doing this. I suggest you buy the ARP ring compressor.
1)Drain all the oil and coolant out of the engine. Drain the coolant out of the block by removing the bolt to the left of the dip stick.
2) Remove the exhaust manifold.
3)Remove the head
4) remove the oil pan
5)Remove the oil pickup/oil-screen
6) Remove the crank case baffle
7) Disconnect the connecting rods (13mm bolts)
8) push rods up through block
9) get old pistons pressed out, new pistons pressed in
10) Replace bearings and match them to OE Honda colors stamped on the side of the bearing itself. (mine were green on top / brown on the bottom)
11) Plastigauge bearings for clearance
12) Reinstall new pistons using a spring compressor (this is where your buddy comes in handy!)
13) Torque to spec
14) Reinstall whatever you took out
I think I've left some stuff out. Like checking piston End gap ring spec inside the cylinder prior to installation. Stuff like that. So you'll need to consult the helms manual.
Oh, and on the head. If you want to quickly pop the valve keepers out. Use like a 14mm socket on a 3" extension and take a rubber mallet. Then quickly beat on the top of the retainer and not the keeper itself. It'll pop right out. No need for a compressor.
Installation is another thing.... You'll need a overhead cam valve spring compressor for that, or the snap-on valve keeper installer.
IMO, it's better to pull the rocker arms out so you'll have enough room to work in. It's not hard. The rocker arm oil squirter orifices must be removed first. They are different for Intake and Exhaust side, so put them in separate plastic baggies labeled correctly. Use a small pair of needle nose pliers to pull them out.
Remove the distributor and VTEC Solenoid to gain access to the rocker shafts in order to remove the rocker arms. Put rubber bands on the all sets of the rocker arms to prevent them from separating when you pull the shafts out.
There is a cover that covers the intake side rocker shaft, use a 10mm allen wrench/key to remove it. The rocker shafts can be removed by threading a head bolt into it and pulling straight out, slowly. Be sure to mark the Exhaust shaft or separate it and do not mix it up. Notice that on the very end of the shaft the larger hole for the Rocker Oil squirter orifice. That must face UP upon installation. A line of white out a the edge of the shaft will quickly indicate the upward position so there is no guesswork involved.
Rocker arms should now be easily removed from the head. Keep them in order and separate them intake and exhaust.
It's also be a good time to replace all of the gaskets, seals, etc. If the helms manual said to replace it. Replace it. Go aftermarket if you can. I.E GE Cam seals and Hondata intake manifold gasket.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Here is a rough walk through.
It's pretty technical, but the concept is pretty simple. It's impossible unless you have 2 people and a helms manual.
You have to measure specs, over and over.
By all means no one should attempt this if they have never worked on their car before or do not own a helms manual.
It's not easy. It's even harder if you don't have anyone helping you or have the correct tools. The craftsman ring compressor is pretty shitty. If you plan on doing this. I suggest you buy the ARP ring compressor.
1)Drain all the oil and coolant out of the engine. Drain the coolant out of the block by removing the bolt to the left of the dip stick.
2) Remove the exhaust manifold.
3)Remove the head
4) remove the oil pan
5)Remove the oil pickup/oil-screen
6) Remove the crank case baffle
7) Disconnect the connecting rods (13mm bolts)
8) push rods up through block
9) get old pistons pressed out, new pistons pressed in
10) Replace bearings and match them to OE Honda colors stamped on the side of the bearing itself. (mine were green on top / brown on the bottom)
11) Plastigauge bearings for clearance
12) Reinstall new pistons using a spring compressor (this is where your buddy comes in handy!)
13) Torque to spec
14) Reinstall whatever you took out
I think I've left some stuff out. Like checking piston End gap ring spec inside the cylinder prior to installation. Stuff like that. So you'll need to consult the helms manual.
Oh, and on the head. If you want to quickly pop the valve keepers out. Use like a 14mm socket on a 3" extension and take a rubber mallet. Then quickly beat on the top of the retainer and not the keeper itself. It'll pop right out. No need for a compressor.
Installation is another thing.... You'll need a overhead cam valve spring compressor for that, or the snap-on valve keeper installer.IMO, it's better to pull the rocker arms out so you'll have enough room to work in. It's not hard. The rocker arm oil squirter orifices must be removed first. They are different for Intake and Exhaust side, so put them in separate plastic baggies labeled correctly. Use a small pair of needle nose pliers to pull them out.
Remove the distributor and VTEC Solenoid to gain access to the rocker shafts in order to remove the rocker arms. Put rubber bands on the all sets of the rocker arms to prevent them from separating when you pull the shafts out.
There is a cover that covers the intake side rocker shaft, use a 10mm allen wrench/key to remove it. The rocker shafts can be removed by threading a head bolt into it and pulling straight out, slowly. Be sure to mark the Exhaust shaft or separate it and do not mix it up. Notice that on the very end of the shaft the larger hole for the Rocker Oil squirter orifice. That must face UP upon installation. A line of white out a the edge of the shaft will quickly indicate the upward position so there is no guesswork involved.
Rocker arms should now be easily removed from the head. Keep them in order and separate them intake and exhaust.
It's also be a good time to replace all of the gaskets, seals, etc. If the helms manual said to replace it. Replace it. Go aftermarket if you can. I.E GE Cam seals and Hondata intake manifold gasket.
Re: Piston install pics (P1mpSlap)
We're doing the same thing, only not in the car. Test drive yet?
BTW, I've never had a problem with the Craftsman ring compressor. Goes in every time on the first try.
BTW, I've never had a problem with the Craftsman ring compressor. Goes in every time on the first try.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,416
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From: Columbus, GA, USA
Re: Piston install pics (IN VTEC)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We're doing the same thing, only not in the car. Test drive yet?
BTW, I've never had a problem with the Craftsman ring compressor. Goes in every time on the first try.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not yet.
I dont have a overhead cam valve spring compressor, so I cant compress the springs again. So I took it to Tom's shop (B18C5-EH2) to get it done. Hopefully friday afternoon it'll be running.
The problem I had with my ring compressor was
1) It was kinda old and not round all the way
2) The bottom oil ring would bearly pop out of the compressor and not clear the top of the deck. So I had to have someone squeeze the hell out of the thing and push down on it, while I pushed the piston in.
Next paycheck will prolly go to some good tools.
Gear Ratchets (make work SOOOOOOOOO much easier)
Overhead cam valve spring compressor
Snap-on valve keeper installer
ARP Ring Compressor
Maybe some newer metric deep well sockets. I need a new set.
BTW, I've never had a problem with the Craftsman ring compressor. Goes in every time on the first try.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not yet.
I dont have a overhead cam valve spring compressor, so I cant compress the springs again. So I took it to Tom's shop (B18C5-EH2) to get it done.
Hopefully friday afternoon it'll be running.The problem I had with my ring compressor was
1) It was kinda old and not round all the way
2) The bottom oil ring would bearly pop out of the compressor and not clear the top of the deck.
So I had to have someone squeeze the hell out of the thing and push down on it, while I pushed the piston in.Next paycheck will prolly go to some good tools.
Gear Ratchets (make work SOOOOOOOOO much easier)
Overhead cam valve spring compressor
Snap-on valve keeper installer
ARP Ring Compressor
Maybe some newer metric deep well sockets. I need a new set.
Re: Piston install pics (P1mpSlap)
I'd just get a new Craftsman ring compressor.
But, if you must get a tapered one, you can get one from Moroso that's $20 less than the ARP piston installer.
Overhead valve spring compressors are only $50 or so from http://www.northerntools.com
'Snap-on valve keeper installer' - what's this? I can't see it being any easier than setting the keepers and using your fingers to hold them and seat them.
But, if you must get a tapered one, you can get one from Moroso that's $20 less than the ARP piston installer.
Overhead valve spring compressors are only $50 or so from http://www.northerntools.com
'Snap-on valve keeper installer' - what's this? I can't see it being any easier than setting the keepers and using your fingers to hold them and seat them.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,416
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From: Columbus, GA, USA
Re: (P1mpSlap)
I don't think you can use that to install keepers being that it's magnetic and all.
It could be useful for those stubborn keepers that don't like to come out using the compressor and magnetic pickup pencil.
It could be useful for those stubborn keepers that don't like to come out using the compressor and magnetic pickup pencil.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 7,187
Likes: 1
Re: Piston install pics (P1mpSlap)
Hope the install/repair is going smoothly Eric.
Don't know if you have the piston ring issue resolved yet.
Your buildup should be a nice reliable build, definitely roll some Hype Rs in our area.
Wish I can own a VTEC engine though. I hope I put down 165whp on my LS motor. 170 and I'll buy drinks for everyone at the dyno too.
Keep me updated and you better not wimp out on the trip this weekend. Laringitis Schmaringitas...
Don't know if you have the piston ring issue resolved yet.
Your buildup should be a nice reliable build, definitely roll some Hype Rs in our area.
Wish I can own a VTEC engine though.
I hope I put down 165whp on my LS motor. 170 and I'll buy drinks for everyone at the dyno too.Keep me updated and you better not wimp out on the trip this weekend. Laringitis Schmaringitas...
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,416
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From: Columbus, GA, USA
Re: Piston install pics (len)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by len »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hope the install/repair is going smoothly Eric.
Don't know if you have the piston ring issue resolved yet.
Your buildup should be a nice reliable build, definitely roll some Hype Rs in our area.
Wish I can own a VTEC engine though. I hope I put down 165whp on my LS motor. 170 and I'll buy drinks for everyone at the dyno too.
Keep me updated and you better not wimp out on the trip this weekend. Laringitis Schmaringitas...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I got the piston ring issue down. My bad dude. I was just worn out that night/morning and didnt know what to do. I called Alonso and he verified that they were indeed Std size piston rings. I just had to get some rest, then go back and gap them to spec.
Dude, I'm trying not to puss out on the meet. I'll take my sisters accord if I have to.
Don't know if you have the piston ring issue resolved yet.
Your buildup should be a nice reliable build, definitely roll some Hype Rs in our area.
Wish I can own a VTEC engine though.
I hope I put down 165whp on my LS motor. 170 and I'll buy drinks for everyone at the dyno too.Keep me updated and you better not wimp out on the trip this weekend. Laringitis Schmaringitas...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I got the piston ring issue down. My bad dude. I was just worn out that night/morning and didnt know what to do. I called Alonso and he verified that they were indeed Std size piston rings. I just had to get some rest, then go back and gap them to spec.
Dude, I'm trying not to puss out on the meet. I'll take my sisters accord if I have to.