Just like the topic says... Feasible or not? I know S2 says to run their valve springs, but what happens if I don't use their valves? I already tried that, and bent one, then one broke... Not too eager to give them another shot, if you know what I mean...

Any ideas???

 

Nothing wrong with running them(stock valves). Alot of people say to run stock diameter valves witht Jun cams because of valve to valve clearance anyhow. It's funny before skunk offered valves the guy Dan there swore up and down to only use stock valves. This was way back when there cams first came out. He said they would only run stockers in there teg because the stockers could take a few hits of the piston before they would break , he said the stainless ones would shatter in there motors if they hit and thats why he suggested stock. lol

I edited to clarify that I meant that it's ok to run stock, there might have been some confusion in the way I worded it.


Modified by Tbone at 8:59 AM 7/23/2003

 

why take the risk keep them out till you can do it right my car sat for almost 1 year cause its been built safely

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg_type_r93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why take the risk keep them out till you can do it right my car sat for almost 1 year cause its been built safely </TD></TR></TABLE>haha a year .. what took a year?? (everything you had done)

 

When I look at the paper that came with my Stage 2s it says not to use oversize valves..So if I were you I'd keep the stock ones..I know I will when I drop my cams in

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg_type_r93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why take the risk keep them out till you can do it right my car sat for almost 1 year cause its been built safely </TD></TR></TABLE>

What's the risk?And what do you consider right?

Btw in my earlier post I mentioned the jun cams because the skunk stage 2 is a copy of the jun 3.
I also edited it to clarify that I meant that it's ok to run stock valves, that was point of my post.

 

The Stage 2's aren't an exact copy of the JunIII's, but they appear to be based off of them. Stock valves are fine. Supposidly the Skunk2 valves (Supertech's) are suppose to have hardened tips now to avoid mushrooming. All Skunk2 valves are not O/S, you can get them stock, 0.5mm and 1.0mm O/S. You can run those or if you are buying OEM just get ITR intake valves and B-Series exhasut valves.

 

Ask Omniman(former skunk engine builder) where they got there profiles for the stage 2. Also ask him what cams they ran in the 10 sec teg motor he built. Sure add a deg to the profile to say its different.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tbone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ask Omniman(former skunk engine builder) where they got there profiles for the stage 2. Also ask him what cams they ran in the 10 sec teg motor he built. Sure add a deg to the profile to say its different. </TD></TR></TABLE>

This is exactly why I crack up with all the Skunk2 vs Jun threads...

Suprdave

 

The reason I ask is because I HAD Skunk2 standard sized valves in my old head, but one of them broke and went through the number 1 piston, then got stuck in the head... After replacing the head, I think I just want to swap out the S2 valvesprings and go with the stock valves... I don't want any more problems with the new head... So the overall conscensus is that I can run stock valves?

The head supposedly has 45k on it, so would it be wise just to buy a new set of GSR valves, just to eliminate any possibility of a bad one in there somewhere???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suprdave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This is exactly why I crack up with all the Skunk2 vs Jun threads...

Suprdave</TD></TR></TABLE>

But the Jun's are Japanese, they always make more power!
I'm running a GSR head w/Skunk stage 2's and stock valves, it's fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TboneSure &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> add a deg to the profile to say its different. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well does that make them the same? As I stated they are based off of the JUNIII's. Also I was under the impression that the Stage 3's were used in the 95 RS car.

 

What the...so skunk stage 2's are Jun 3's? Well I guess its a deal buying the skunks since I'm sure they cost less then jdm shiznit.

On the subject. If oversized valves didnt work for you once before with the old head, stick with stock. In my opinion, if you going into any companys stage 2 version of there n/a cams, its the wisest idea to up the valvesprings along with it to be able to get full potential out of the cams (higher rpm output, larger lift and duration) and depending on comp radio; clay the motor for valve to piston clearance so you dont risk damaging the motor.

 

The head arrived today, and it's looking good... Everything looks clean, but I'm still wondering if I should buy new GSR valves for it, just to be on the safe side?? I think I may, just to ease my mind.. Opinions???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Milano &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well does that make them the same? As I stated they are based off of the JUNIII's. Also I was under the impression that the Stage 3's were used in the 95 RS car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well for the purpose of my post and the point I was making, did you really feel that you pointing out that there not copies helped this post in any way?? And if there based off the jun 3's doesnt it make my comparison even more valid to the subject.
Yeah and rotas arent copies of spoons , there just based off of them right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C_EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The head arrived today, and it's looking good... Everything looks clean, but I'm still wondering if I should buy new GSR valves for it, just to be on the safe side?? I think I may, just to ease my mind.. Opinions??? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Why not put ITR valves in it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why not put ITR valves in it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hadn't actually thought about it... What would be the advantages with ITR valves than going with GSR valves? Are ITR's any stronger? Do they flow better???

 

Well if you read my original post you can see I just stated it for correctional purposes. The rest of my post was on the topic at hand. It wasn't ment to bash you or directed towards you in any way at all. Just a generalized topic.

ITR valves. What a concept. I think I mentioned that in my first post.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Milano &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ITR valves. What a concept. I think I mentioned that in my first post. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's why I asked why not , because he either dismissed it or didnt see it.

Itr intake valves are lighter and flow slightly better. The exhaust valves are the same.


Btw Mr Milano , no correction needed to be made because stg 2's are copies of jun 3 I didnt say exact for correctional purposes

 

Thanks for reiterating that for him then.

 

You did mention that.. I wasn't really paying attention to the Skunk vs. Jun debate, and you talked about the ITR valves right after... Didn't see it...

I think I'll be safer with OEM valves, because I dont' want another one to break.. At least if a piston bangs a valve a couple of times, it'll just bend, and the motor won't require a rebuild...

What about valve guides? Good idea to replace or just a waste of money at this point in time??

 

If you bent valves ,chances are you cracked your guides too. Have them checked professionally.(not your buddy who thinks there ok)

 

I was actually asking about the new head... Should I replace the guides, or is that unnecessary at this time.....