Code 45 ownz my ass for $223 bucks
So I throw code 45 (too rich/lean) today, (I went a whole day w/o throwing a CEL), take it to my mechanic and he says its an o2 sensor. I go to Acura, and they want 223 bucks for theirs, I call my mechanic twice to make sure thats it, he says yes. I buy it, he installs it, and 30 miles later another ****** code 45. What the hell is going on? Please help me, my car is breakin the bank, and Im pissed as hell. Could my MAP controller be messin anything up?
gmoore
Mods- JRSC, MAP/BTC controller, I/H/TP/E
gmoore
Mods- JRSC, MAP/BTC controller, I/H/TP/E
i recall Bosch makes an O2 sensor for $50.
Along time ago...I ripped my OEM O2 sensor when I was installing header and it cost me $300 to get one from the dealer too. I have not bought one from Bosch but I recall a friend told me they make em for Integras.
About the code 45...I am not familar with ECU codes. Sorry
Along time ago...I ripped my OEM O2 sensor when I was installing header and it cost me $300 to get one from the dealer too. I have not bought one from Bosch but I recall a friend told me they make em for Integras.
About the code 45...I am not familar with ECU codes. Sorry
I checked autozone and they wanted 323 for their Bosch one. For once a dealer is cheaper.
Code 45- System too rich, too lean.
gmoore
Code 45- System too rich, too lean.
gmoore
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Stock with a JR BTC and JR MAP controller.
gmoore
EDIT- The BTC is wired wrong for sure, so chances are good the MAP is too. Is there anyway the MAP could be doing it? I may have my shop rewire them both.
gmoore
EDIT- The BTC is wired wrong for sure, so chances are good the MAP is too. Is there anyway the MAP could be doing it? I may have my shop rewire them both.
i had a code 45 before, i bought an oem o2 off somebody here and it worked fine for two days then I got code 45 again.. ok, so I bought a no-name one off the internet, and it's been working fine ever since (knock on wood) with a generous 34mpg. i remember I got the o2 sensor new for about $60US
i'll try and find the website for you.
i'll try and find the website for you.
i doubt its anything to do with MAP you would throw a code3, Im not really familiar with JR kits though. As far as O2 i kno what you mean they cost alot but on groupbuycenter you can get a NGK/NTK o2 sensor for $79. I just recieved mine last week
Simple fix...follow the trouble shooting flowchart outlined in a Helm's manual for a code 45. That will diagnose your problem. Once you know what the problem is, then you should spend money on the necessary part(s) (if applicable). Good luck.
-kenji
-kenji
So first I should have them recheck the o2 fooler? But wouldnt it throw Catalytic System Below Threshold since Im running a TP? Im still thinking it may be that MAP, because it works in congunction with the ECU to figure fuel enrichment. If the MAP is messed up it could cause it to run rich/lean. Im gonna take it to the shop and have them recheck the fooler and rewire the MAP and BTC controllers, Ill pull the plugs to see if Im running rich/lean also.
gmoore
gmoore
well the map is what tells the ecu how much fuel to put in..and the first o2would be the one the compensate the folllowing its like maps ses this much.. but the o2 ses this much .. so in the next cycle of the motor is will plant it between what those 2 sensors would be saying.. now the 2nd o2 its all emmision..it would tell you if your car is running correctly or not..since you have a o2 simulator... and youve replaced the first o2... i tink your simulator is giving the ECU the wrong voltage...i dunno if that makes any sense.. but thats how i look at it..
Its a possibility, this shop deals mostly with hotrod 10sec cars, and he may not know that a simulator for a ford with not work with my teg, but I doubt. I showed him the MAP controller, the wiring diagrams and directions, and he didnt think it was that, he said if it was messed up, the car would run like **** and throw a MAP code, which it doesnt, and hasnt. He just thre 5lbs more fuel into it via the FMU and I took it out onto some back roads and ran it at WOT for probably 10 0-80 passes, and NO CEL. The previous times I had thrown one I was just cruising at 20mph. So it seems to me it would have thrown the code if it was messed up at WOT. Any more ideas?
gmoore
gmoore
My car was throwing a Code 45 a couple years ago before my swap. I ran nitrous through the motor, and must have hurt it because the code didn't show up until after a few months. Turns out I had cracked 3 ring lands and oil must have been entering the combustion area, making the system think it was running rich. After my block swap, no more CEL. If your car has been tuned, this might not be a possiblity, but it could be depending if you ever had detonation. Just a thought. Do a compression check and a leakdown to see if everything is kosher.
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