k my cousin just did a B16A swap into his 87 CRX Si
Mods:
Stock B16A
PR3 ECU
S1 tranny
No codes...
14BTDC timing
Compression its 230, 220, 220, 225

engine runs strong... ha even beat a talon that runs 14.2.....
now.... for some odd reason the ecu cutoff @ 7500 that day.... engine was hot and all... he says normally goes up to 8200 with no problems...

now what u guys think of this engine?

 

how did he beat a talon that runs a 14.2 with 123 horsepower?

 

That's like 145 HP to the wheels... Which seems to be a little bit tired...

 

I think that is weak, b16's usually dyno at least 10 WHP higher than that.

 

how the **** do u figure that is 145 to the wheels

thats 145 to the crank,

something is wrong with his setup

i dynoe 156 to the wheels, now i have alot more mods then him but not 33hp worth of more mods

what exhaust is he running?

i reccomend taking the cat off and taking it back up there and running it again, if he still has the 87 cat and exhaust piping and muffler its killing his car

 

I don't think it's so bad, considering the dyno stopped at 7500 RPM. As for beating a 14.2 second Talon: it's believable considering how little a 1st gen CRX weighs. Combine that wight (or lack thereof) with a B16 and an s1 transmission and you have a quick car.

Why is he only running 14 degrees BTDC? I run 17 with 94 octane gas.

Hey Slowpoke Si... did you break into the 14's yet?

 

That looks like a normal dyno sheet considering he only took it to 7500rpm. I'm "guessing" 500rpm more can equal a extra 10-15 horsepower. And as for beating a talon that runs 14.2 is believeable considering the older si weigh around 2000-2100 stock. Its probably a high 13's car with the right driver and other conditions.

 

he has a 2.25 catback with a straight tru muffler....
this dyno its from the engine as it is, when he got it... just slap it on the dyno after the swap... he wanted to know exactly how much it has before
timing was back then 14 deg.. now it sback to 18 deg.....

and yes the car its completely gutted, but the 2 seats and half of the dash...

 

Check your ECU number, I bet you that it's an auto and fuel cutting at 7600, that's what mine does.

 

But he said 8200 rpm wasn't a problem before... maybe there's a wiring problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. S &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But he said 8200 rpm wasn't a problem before... maybe there's a wiring problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>
or maybe the fan in front of the car whil eon the dyno cooled it down a bit too much

 

i don't think it's bad i saw a total stock b16 dyno 120 not corrected..... just the other weekend

 

Stock B16's should do about 130-135 hp to the wheels.

 

My strong stock b16a dyno for comparison...

With a crappy exhaust and cat too.
My guess is that running in limp mode cost a lot of HP. Or like said above you might have an auto ECU. Also do you know for sure your rev limit is actually 8k? Because the stock tach can be pretty inaccurate.

 

Can I hump your motor please?

Very nice

 

I have used auto pr3 ecu's and they have never redlined at 7500 before. I think that is a line of ****.

 

how can u tell between manual and auto, which # in the ecu badge?

 

Unscrew the ecu cover plate and look inside on the circuit board it will either have a "M" or a "AT". the automatic redline is 7400. I have a pr3 automatic ecu and I think its 7400 but everyone knows these stock tachs are always off calibration after 4000rpm.

 

thanks

 

you guys are dumb if u really think that a stock b16 would make up the extra 15 hp between 7500 and 8200. the motor makes its peak power @ 7600 (rating from factory) and usually makes around 152-155 FHP @ redline

 

I'm the owner of the CRX who's dyno was 123.6hp. After checking the timing found that it was 14 BTDC moved to 18 BTDC and running in 93 octane gas. Also opened the ECU and found no MT or AT stamp on the board. The ecu # is 37820-PR3-901 also says it’s from 89.

Compression was good so I discard that the engine is bad.
Got 2.25 piping but the connector to the manifold still the CRX stock one (Think its 1.75 or so in diameter) then it opens to 2.25 diameter of the piping. Also the piping has a resonator and Arospeed muffler.

Have to install another resonator cause still sounds to loud and cops are bad with that, $100 ticket for loud sound. So I’m planning to install another resonator, maybe a Cherry Bomb from Pep Boys $17.

Today I accelerated the car in 2nd gear from an exit to the highway and the ecu cut around 7500 rpm, I'm thinking that maybe its an automatic ECU. So have to get a real MT ECU and take my car to the dyno again.

Hope it fix the HP problem

 

good to see u made it here

hopefully after a good tune up, like wires, plugs and a real air filter u wil get more power

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowpokesi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">something is wrong with his setup</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not necessarily. No mention is made of bolt-on mods. And these help a B16A swap TREMENDOUSLY. 123HP is not unreasonable (and is even GOOD) if he is still running the asthmatic, tiny stock airbox and 1.375 inch stock HF/DX exhaust system.

 

did you see where i made mention of the exhaust,


if the guy had stock exhaust and cat then that is a good number

if he had all new piping, cat and muffler then its a bad dyno and something is wrong with his car.


read next time

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowpokesi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how the **** do u figure that is 145 to the wheels

thats 145 to the crank,</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry, I meant 145 to the crank. I don't know how to type.