gets into gear when car not on but dont when car is on
i just swaped my crx and when the car is off i can go into gear but when i start the engine my gears get stuck and i cant get into gear. whats wrong?????
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. S »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your clutch cable is too tight. Loosen it off and try that. I had the same problem with my D16Y8.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds right to me. Sounds like you need an adjustment
at the cable or pedal or both.
Got Helms??
Sounds right to me. Sounds like you need an adjustmentat the cable or pedal or both.
Got Helms??
didnt know what u meant by "just swapped my CRX...", guess that meant you put in a new clutch. In that case, do what the others have recommended, it'll only take a minute or two.
adjust your damn clutch. with the car off it's easy to go into gear, but with the adjustment being outta wack and the car running the clutch isn't disengaging all the way that's why you can't get it in gear
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i have the same ****** problem, just finished my swap about a week ago and my gears do go in for a while with the motor runnning after a while they wont go in. I think its my shiftlinkage, lets see how this ends.
hey i have this exact problem in my car, i hava a newish clutch, and just today the darn thing wouldnt go into 1st and 3rd, so i had to drive in 2nd to start and 4th while going.but as i approached the stop sign i had my clutch pushed all the way to the floor and it was as if the clutch wasnt releasing, now i cant get it into gear at all when i try to drive, it will go into gear when its off, but not running.
did anyone figure out what the problem was?
I am gonna tear it down if i cant figure it out, i tryed loosening my clutch linkage, then i tryed tightening it but to no avail, but i did notice 2 of my transaxle bolts were loosened off a bit and i tightened them and hope that would do it but still nop luck. I hope someone can teach me LOL
from their experiences with this problem.
frank banks thanks
did anyone figure out what the problem was?
I am gonna tear it down if i cant figure it out, i tryed loosening my clutch linkage, then i tryed tightening it but to no avail, but i did notice 2 of my transaxle bolts were loosened off a bit and i tightened them and hope that would do it but still nop luck. I hope someone can teach me LOL
from their experiences with this problem.
frank banks thanks
Well a few weeks ago a friend came to with this exact same problem. It turned out to be his flywheels bolts. Who ever put his b16 swap in his integra didnt tighten them up all the way and they were backing themselves out into the clutch disc and rubbing on the springs. Get this...one of the bolts was marked AT, which is for AT trannys and it wasn't long enough to even thread in, it just sat in the hole. It was truly a funny site to see. How tight did all u people go with the flywheel bolts? Any of you guys use low strength thread locker? Just to say it again, his car exhibited your guys' exact same symptoms >> only able to select gears with car off...try to do it with car on and it wouldn't.
hey thanks for the tips, I am going to have to tear it down it looks like, and get in there and see whats up.when i do get around to that I will post my findings?
did anyone else solves their probs yet?
did anyone else solves their probs yet?
loosen your clutch cable before your tear it down. Everyone with near clutches try this. Some here say they are having problems with it going into gear. Alot of new clutches are racing clutches and the PP and sometimes the throw out bearing are made to push the PP in faster. Exedy clutches even have a not in them telling you that there has been issues with this. My Action was the same way, I adjusted it as normal stock clutch and it would not go into gear. The problem was it pushed in too far. If your having problems with it going into first and stop lights and ****, try it with the pedal half way ou...then 3/4's. We have a huge advantage with cables, cause we can adjust them how we want them.
Take the adjuster and loosen it to were there is some slack in it. Take the arm and push it till you feel there is contact with the PP...tighten the adjuster to were it sits at that point. Start it up, and try shifting with the clutch in about 90 % down... If it glides through like butter but at 100 % down it gets catchy, go loosen it 1/4 trun and go from there...if at 90% it is catchy and it gets smoother at 100% tighten it 1/4 turn and see how it is.
Another good sign of it being pushed to far, is you can hear the throw out bearing whine.
Take the adjuster and loosen it to were there is some slack in it. Take the arm and push it till you feel there is contact with the PP...tighten the adjuster to were it sits at that point. Start it up, and try shifting with the clutch in about 90 % down... If it glides through like butter but at 100 % down it gets catchy, go loosen it 1/4 trun and go from there...if at 90% it is catchy and it gets smoother at 100% tighten it 1/4 turn and see how it is.
Another good sign of it being pushed to far, is you can hear the throw out bearing whine.
I had the same problem. I just swaped in a b16 and drove good for about the first block. Than the clutch wouldn't disengauge. I attempted to adjust the cable but it still didn't work. After I got it back to the shop they tore it apart and said it was the presure plate. I sent the clutch and presure plate back to ACT and they confermed it was the diaphram. They replace it and payed for shiping. But my b16 was an automatic and the more I think about it, the shop that did my swap more than likely used the automatic bolts that were to short.
Its your shiftlinkage dude....its not adjusted properly so basically when you throw the shifter forward, your linkage isnt tight enough to pull the tranny gear shift into 1st and 3rd. The key here is that the gears that dont work are on the same "side" of the shift I.E. top.
As for the car not allowing shfits:
1 - Do not attempt to shift it like this since you are killing your synchrose.
2 - Your clutch isnt releasing completely. Since you swapped in a new clutch your cable may have been adjusted to the old worn clutches demands....with a newer thicker clutch, it will stay engaged. I'd first lossen the clutch cable. Then I'd start wodering about stuff in / on the clutch (release baring, pressure plate etc)
Oh BTW...I donno...but this might be worth a shot...did you do a hydro swap into your crx? If so, you have air in your clutch line...bleed the line.
As for the car not allowing shfits:
1 - Do not attempt to shift it like this since you are killing your synchrose.
2 - Your clutch isnt releasing completely. Since you swapped in a new clutch your cable may have been adjusted to the old worn clutches demands....with a newer thicker clutch, it will stay engaged. I'd first lossen the clutch cable. Then I'd start wodering about stuff in / on the clutch (release baring, pressure plate etc)
Oh BTW...I donno...but this might be worth a shot...did you do a hydro swap into your crx? If so, you have air in your clutch line...bleed the line.
I played around with the clutch cable a bit today, i loosened it right off and then just tightened it enough so there was no slack in the line, then i tryed it, i went tighter and tryed it, i went tighter and tryed it again, i did this 4-5 times, but it didnt go into gear, when i try to go into reverse it makes a grinding sound as if its not disengaging, but the rest of the gears it just wont go in at all, unless the car is not running, it goes into every gear with the car off no problem.
i did find that my two bellhousing bolts that are right by the clutch release arm were extremely loose and that the bellhousing was away from the motor block about 1/4 inch, i tightened them up, but im guessing driving with the thing loose like that did some internal damage to my clutch parts.Im going to attempt to fix it myself this time around, so its done right
has anyone here done their own clutch before, do i have to remove the transaxles to back the tranny off?
actually what i want to try first is to see if i can just back off my tranny and see whats up in there, then if i need to replace stuff, tear it right down, and do the whole thing.it sucks cuz my motor runs so sweet you wouldnt know it had 334,000kms on it at all
extremely easy starting, no smoke at all, and nice smooth idle, too bad it wont go down the road hah hah hah
thanks for all the responses,
YOU GUYS ARE GREAT!!
i did find that my two bellhousing bolts that are right by the clutch release arm were extremely loose and that the bellhousing was away from the motor block about 1/4 inch, i tightened them up, but im guessing driving with the thing loose like that did some internal damage to my clutch parts.Im going to attempt to fix it myself this time around, so its done right

has anyone here done their own clutch before, do i have to remove the transaxles to back the tranny off?
actually what i want to try first is to see if i can just back off my tranny and see whats up in there, then if i need to replace stuff, tear it right down, and do the whole thing.it sucks cuz my motor runs so sweet you wouldnt know it had 334,000kms on it at all
extremely easy starting, no smoke at all, and nice smooth idle, too bad it wont go down the road hah hah hahthanks for all the responses,
YOU GUYS ARE GREAT!!
You are grinding reverse cause its not synchromeshed. Read up on synchromesh transmission if you wanna understand why....I'm too lazy to type it 
You need to pull one of the axles to back the tranny off the motor (passenger side)...you'll also need some way of supporting the tranny and engine. Since the tranny is pretty hefty, and the engine will wanna fall sideways (towards the passenger side) once the tranny is off, as there is an engine mount on the tranny.

You need to pull one of the axles to back the tranny off the motor (passenger side)...you'll also need some way of supporting the tranny and engine. Since the tranny is pretty hefty, and the engine will wanna fall sideways (towards the passenger side) once the tranny is off, as there is an engine mount on the tranny.
i think its the shift link too but if it was then it was go into some gears but my car doesnt go into ne gears
had the same problem. was at illegals on night and messed on my shifts. went from first to second then back to first. second time this happen to me. only on this car and this shift linkage. have hasport shift linkage which favors rhd cars. huess cause they used the jdm linkages as patterns. first gear stand a little right then straight up. but anyway have the same problem that night after doing this. can't believe it even went into first at that speed. but next morning it would go into gear when car is on, but its a little harder to put into 1rst. car feels like **** now. was told i even through a flame when this happen. anyone know what is the problem. was told by a couple people it is the pressure plate.
hey all,
I briefly checked out my linkages and with the car off it appears to work fine.in any case I will start with checking the linkages first, before i tear it down, which i will do on the weekend.,Hey thanks for the info about the tranny having a mount on it that holds the motor in place i checked it out on my car and see what you meant.so i plan to raise the car up on the passenger side and remove the axle, then im gonna use a jack and put it under the motor, to keep it up, then i will remove anything in my way to lift tranny out of car, i have a hoist if its too heavy, and i will post what i find, its time i learnt this about hondas anyways, ive worked on lots of cars but only a couple honds in the 11 years ive been wrenching so im chalking this one up to a lesson
i appreciate all your guys help and tips and stuff.
thanks
frank banks
I briefly checked out my linkages and with the car off it appears to work fine.in any case I will start with checking the linkages first, before i tear it down, which i will do on the weekend.,Hey thanks for the info about the tranny having a mount on it that holds the motor in place i checked it out on my car and see what you meant.so i plan to raise the car up on the passenger side and remove the axle, then im gonna use a jack and put it under the motor, to keep it up, then i will remove anything in my way to lift tranny out of car, i have a hoist if its too heavy, and i will post what i find, its time i learnt this about hondas anyways, ive worked on lots of cars but only a couple honds in the 11 years ive been wrenching so im chalking this one up to a lesson

i appreciate all your guys help and tips and stuff.
thanks
frank banks
hey again all, I got bored today and the weather wasnt too hot like it has been the past few days.So I got out there and checked my linkages, that was fine as far as i could tell, so..... I RIPPED IT APART!!!
to make a long story short... it was clutch disk failure, the springs in the clutch that dampen the shock when you pop it into gear were disintegrated, i had peices of metal the size of nickels in there (4) and a bunch of little peices of rubber crap, as it didnt have actual springs on the clutch disk, just little rubber bushings type of thing.They were stuck between my pressure plate and my clutch disk and thats why it wouldnt release the clutch because they were jammed up in there.
anyways i dont recommend a rubber bushing type of clutch, even if it saves you a bunch of money, they are junk. I had tonnes of material left on my clutch, an easy 5-7 more years of use, the flywheel is still smooth as a womans inner thighs, and the pressure plate looks great barely any wear, this clutch was all brand new less than 2 years ago, more like 16 months or so, and half that time it just sat in the yard.
thanks for all your guys help, if anyones gonna tear down their CRX tranny to get at their cluitch and want to know anything, i just did it so its all fresh in my mind, and it went smoothly.
take care
frank banks
to make a long story short... it was clutch disk failure, the springs in the clutch that dampen the shock when you pop it into gear were disintegrated, i had peices of metal the size of nickels in there (4) and a bunch of little peices of rubber crap, as it didnt have actual springs on the clutch disk, just little rubber bushings type of thing.They were stuck between my pressure plate and my clutch disk and thats why it wouldnt release the clutch because they were jammed up in there.
anyways i dont recommend a rubber bushing type of clutch, even if it saves you a bunch of money, they are junk. I had tonnes of material left on my clutch, an easy 5-7 more years of use, the flywheel is still smooth as a womans inner thighs, and the pressure plate looks great barely any wear, this clutch was all brand new less than 2 years ago, more like 16 months or so, and half that time it just sat in the yard.
thanks for all your guys help, if anyones gonna tear down their CRX tranny to get at their cluitch and want to know anything, i just did it so its all fresh in my mind, and it went smoothly.
take care
frank banks



